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Remote Start Not Working

90K views 41 replies 20 participants last post by  sheelanamaste  
#1 ·
Bought my GC Altitude Nov 4th. Remote start always worked fine. Yesterday I noticed twice at two different times it shut off after a few seconds. Today started it, went out a minute or two later and it was off again. All doors were shut and locked. Made sure it was locks and tried to start again and beeped once and would not start. Any ideas? It really sucks cause winter finally showed up and it's been in the teens at night.
 
#6 ·
When it's low on fuel it'll start .....then shut off....take a short trip to Home Despot and back without filling up...low fuel light is still on....press the remote start button twice and it starts....and shuts off. Why have it start, only to shut off after a few seconds? Why wouldn't the 'brain' check for fuel BEFORE starting the Jeep?
 
#14 ·
Hi Dorsey24,

Pages 30-31 of your Owner's Manual, which you can download from www.mopar.com, state:

"All of the following conditions must be met before the engine will remote start:
• Shift lever in PARK
• Doors closed
• Hood closed
• Liftgate/Flipper Glass closed
• Hazard switch off
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pressed)
• Ignition key removed from ignition switch
• Battery at an acceptable charge level
• RKE PANIC button not pressed
• System not disabled from previous remote start event
• Vehicle theft alarm not active
• Ignition in Off position for Keyless Enter-N-Go™ vehicle
• Fuel level meets minimum requirement"

If you believe your vehicle is meeting all of these items and the remote start still is not operating as designed we would recommend visiting your local dealership for further diagnosis!

Andrea
Jeep Social Care Specialist
 
#15 ·
I think the OP's issue here was the low fuel level, but for posterity...something I ran into in my 2011 Durango was the hood latch safety switch. As Andrea points out above, "hood closed" is a parameter that needs to be met and the hood latch/safety switch (combined unit) has been known to go all blooey on these vehicles causing the PCM to think the hood is ajar and not start the auto-start sequence. When this happens you'll get an EVIC message advising same. On mine, the electrical connector was loose. Pushed it in good and it is working again. The unit can go bad though. They run about $50 and are an easy swap out.
 
#17 ·
I ran into the same issue as a the OP today, but with a full tank. It's been a bit warm here in NC and it's intermittent.

Wonder if it's too warm and will cut off to protect the engine.
If the remote start continues to malfunction, please let us know--we're happy to reach out to the dealership on your behalf to make sure you can get in and have it looked at further.

Kori
Jeep Social Care Specialist
 
#18 ·
Ha! I just had this issue in my 2014. Remote Start wouldn't work due to it thinking the hood was open. (screen would tell you that when you looked in the window). The connector looked fine on mine. I reseated it to no avail. Then I hit the mechanical mechanism with some WD-40. That cleared off a lot of the grease and grime. And now it works.
That probably would've been a $300 trip to the dealer....
 
#21 ·
mine is doing the same. turns out it is was the back hatch sensor. water was getting in the back hatch and finding its way down to the hatch locking mechanism which has a open/closed sensor on it. i unplugged the sensor and the problem went away. only draw back is the lights dont come on when i open the back hatch. Parts are ordered to replace. I have a 2012 jeep liberty so im not sure if its the same but chances are it is a problem with one of your sensors.

It would only fail 50/50 in the fall winter because the temp would go from mild to cold. water would find its way down when it was mild and freeze up the sensor when it got cold.

Thats my experience. hope it helps.
 
#22 ·
Hey there. I'm new to the forum. I have the same issue. When I click my key fab twice to remote start the vehicle, it starts, but only runs for like 30 seconds and shuts off. Then, when I enter the vehicle the message on the dash says "Remote Start Disabled Start Vehicle to Reset". I've done this over and over and apparently it's not resetting and still only runs for like 30 seconds and shuts off.

What to do next? I have plenty of gas yes. See check list below.

"All of the following conditions must be met before the engine will remote start:
• Shift lever in PARK YES
• Doors closed YES
• Hood closed YES
• Liftgate/Flipper Glass closed YES
• Hazard switch off
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pressed) NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• Ignition key removed from ignition switch YES OF COURSE, I AM OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE
• Battery at an acceptable charge level YES
• RKE PANIC button not pressed NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• System not disabled from previous remote start event NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• Vehicle theft alarm not active NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• Ignition in Off position for Keyless Enter-N-Go™ vehicle YES OF COURSE, I AM OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE
• Fuel level meets minimum requirement" YES
 
#23 ·
I have a similar issue going on now for awhile. When I click my key fab twice for remote start the vehicle does beep twice and actually starts. It only runs for some 30 second and then shuts off. Open entry I noticed there's a message that says "Remote Start Disabled Start Vehicle to Reset". I've done this over and over and get the same results. Again...seems like it's fine until it shuts off after 30 seconds or so. Usually it will run for 10 minutes before shut down. I've went over the list below. See below.



"All of the following conditions must be met before the engine will remote start:
• Shift lever in PARK YES
• Doors closed YES
• Hood closed YES
• Liftgate/Flipper Glass closed YES
• Hazard switch off YES
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pressed) OF COURSE, I AM REMOTE STARTING OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE
• Ignition key removed from ignition switch OF COURSE, I AM REMOTE STARTING OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE
• Battery at an acceptable charge level YES
• RKE PANIC button not pressed NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• System not disabled from previous remote start event NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• Vehicle theft alarm not active NOT SURE HOW TO CHECK THIS?
• Ignition in Off position for Keyless Enter-N-Go™ vehicle NOT SURE HOW TO CHECK THIS?
• Fuel level meets minimum requirement" YES
 
#24 ·
Remote start shuts down

2019 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE SUMMIT

I have a similar issue going on now for awhile. When I click my key fab twice for remote start the vehicle does beep twice and actually starts. It only runs for some 30 second and then shuts off. Open entry I noticed there's a message that says "Remote Start Disabled Start Vehicle to Reset". I've done this over and over and get the same results. Again...seems like it's fine until it shuts off after 30 seconds or so. Usually it will run for 10 minutes before shut down. I've went over the list below. See below.

"All of the following conditions must be met before the engine will remote start:
• Shift lever in PARK YES
• Doors closed YES
• Hood closed YES
• Liftgate/Flipper Glass closed YES
• Hazard switch off YES
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pressed) OF COURSE, I AM REMOTE STARTING OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE
• Ignition key removed from ignition switch OF COURSE, I AM REMOTE STARTING OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE
• Battery at an acceptable charge level YES
• RKE PANIC button not pressed NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• System not disabled from previous remote start event NOT SURE WHAT THIS MEANS?
• Vehicle theft alarm not active NOT SURE HOW TO CHECK THIS?
• Ignition in Off position for Keyless Enter-N-Go™ vehicle NOT SURE HOW TO CHECK THIS?
• Fuel level meets minimum requirement" YES
 

Attachments

#25 ·
This is probably either low fuel level (actual or reported) or the fuel pump relay. Try a full tank.

Anything that is amiss with engine performance may start then stall. You may want to see if there are any DTCs in the pending state.
 
#28 ·
This is probably either low fuel level (actual or reported) or the fuel pump relay. Try a full tank.

Anything that is amiss with engine performance may start then stall. You may want to see if there are any DTCs in the pending state.
I appreciate your answer but that's not the case. I have fuel. It's not low fuel. I already said this if you read my post I went through the entire check list.
 
#26 ·
2017 WK2 , my issue is a little different , double click the fob, OR, send a signal thru Uconnect, lights blink once, doors lock and nothing else. I went thru the check list and only thing that seems odd is the red dot on the dash blinks like crazy , then slows down to a steady blink….

“Vehicle alarm system indicator flashing”. I think this is my
Issue but how do I correct it?
 
#34 ·
2017 WK2 , my issue is a little different , double click the fob, OR, send a signal thru Uconnect, lights blink once, doors lock and nothing else. I went thru the check list and only thing that seems odd is the red dot on the dash blinks like crazy , then slows down to a steady blink….

"Vehicle alarm system indicator flashing". I think this is my
Issue but how do I correct it?
Follow up- replaced the main battery with a new Exide, no change , lights still dimming and remote start not functioning from key fob or Uconnect app. I have an appointment with Jeep in three weeks, if it's the alternator or something else, I'm hoping it is covered under the lifetime Mopar warranty I bought when the car was new.
 
#27 ·
If the light begins to flash after the bulb check, it indicates that someone used an invalid key fob to start the engine. So don't be mixing up your FOBs between vehicles. The engine may be shut off after two seconds.

SECURITY INDICATOR FLASHES FOLLOWING BULB TEST - Invalid FOBIK in ignition switch or Key-related fault

SECURITY INDICATOR LIGHTS SOLID FOLLOWING BULB TEST - SKIS system malfunction/fault detected or SKIS system ineffective.


You will need a ODB scanner that can read body modules to figure out whats going on.

For those equipped with the security alarm, the vehicle security light in the instrument cluster will flash when a security alarm is triggered. Unlocking the doors with the FOB, Passive Entry, or turning the ignition on will reset these. If not, there probably is a fault somewhere.

When the VTA begins the passive or active arming sequence, the security indicator will flash rapidly for about 16 seconds. This indicates that VTA arming is in progress. If the status of the ignition switch transitions to ON, if a door or the liftgate is unlocked and opened by any means, or if the RKE PANIC button (if equipped) is depressed during the 16 second arming process, the security indicator will stop flashing and the arming process will abort. Once the arming sequence is successfully completed, the security indicator will flash at a slower rate, indicating that the VTA is armed.

So perhaps the doors being locked starts the VTA arming, but something else is preventing remote start. Are these OEM FOBs?
 
#29 ·
I was suggesting to fill the tank in case the level indicator was off.... When you start the jeep, and let it idle for a minute, does it stall?

if you can read the pending DTCs (OBD scanner), it may be helpful. Otherwise you will probably need a dealer visit to sort it out.
 
#32 ·
Oye now I have this problem! 2017 GC trailhawk. Uconnect changes on it's own, now this. When i hit remote start, the mirrors fold out, and I hear a loud "click" like the starter. I get in, starts no problem.
 
#35 ·
wi

Thank you...have an oil change coming up and battery will be checked. Dash shows volts at 14.7....don't know if that's relevant.

Follow up- replaced the main battery with a new Exide, no change , lights still dimming and remote start not functioning from key fob or Uconnect app. I have an appointment with Jeep in three weeks, if it's the alternator or something else, I'm hoping it is covered under the lifetime Mopar warranty I bought when the car was new.
Thanks for the update. Have you tried remote start while next to the jeep? if so, what did you hear, if anything? Mine sounds like a starter click....since a new battery didn't help you, I'm wondering about the same....
 
#37 ·
Yeah, low voltage could cause both ESS and remote start problems. Did you say you replaced only the main battery? Its actually the small battery that affects dimming lights and remote start. The main battery's primary purpose is to power the starter. What about the IBS (Battery sensor)?
 
#38 ·
Yes, I replaced the main battery. I noticed today as I was in the parking lot with it idling, the board read "ESS not working because seat belt un fastened" so I fastened and it says "ESS not working because battery charging"……so Cold Case, it sounds like I changed the wrong battery and that the extra battery (smaller) is causing the stop/start non function AS WELL as the dimming of lights?