The fluid for the differentials buy at your local parts store. The Chrysler dealership info shows 75w-140 synthetic for the front axle. Shows 80w-90 for the rear axle with the exception of if equipped with two package trailer hitch or heavy duty use use 75-140 synthetic gear oil gl 5 . Add 4oz of limited slip additive if equipped with limited slip or varilock axles. 242 Select track transfer case use ATF+4. 247 quadra drive or quadra drive use only the Mopar fluid. It is a special fluid. About $15-20 a quart. Just under 2 quarts needed
Front axle will take about a quart and half. Rear should be real close to 2 quarts.
Using anything but the Mopar fluid will cause with clutches to chatter and slip in the transfer case.


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Some good info from wranglertec. The only thing which I've seen differently is the front D30 Vari-lok/LSD axle uses 2.5 oz of friction modifier while the larger rear D44a Vari-lok axle takes 4oz of friction modifier.

Below is some good info from wjjeeps on maintenance and fluids.

http://www.wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm

I don't tow or carry heavy loads with my 04 4.7 with Quadra-drive but run Mopar 75W-140 full synthetic gear oil in both my front D30 & D44a Vari-lok axles. Also add the Mopar friction modifier as mentioned above (2.5oz front and 4oz in rear). You'd need 4 qts total of 75W-140 if you go this route which should fill both axles with a little left over. Buy two 4oz bottles of Mopar friction modifier and you should have 1.5 oz left over. Best to add half the gear oil to each axle, then add the friction modifier, while then topping off with gear oil.

Below is the special Mopar 247 gear oil and as wranglertec mentioned 2 qts would be the quantity needed for the 247 transfer case. Not sure if this is the cheapest price around but not bad if you have a prime account with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Accessories-5016796AC-Transfer-Lubricant/dp/B008Y791O2

When I bought my 04 4.7 Limited 6 years ago I splurged and used all Mopar fluids. Will probably do again real soon and it has about 30K miles on those for the transmission, transfer case and axles. It helps I receive a 25% 'cuz' discount through the dealer I've bought so many parts there.

If you don't know when your transmission fluid was last changed you may want to consider it. Also note in the wjjeeps info the 545RFE tran has not only a filter on the bottom of the throttle body but also a trans cooler canister filter (looks like small oil filter) which should be changed at the same time. Good luck.

 

I bought the Ammsoil fluid for the 247. It cost my 15 per qt.

The 247 fluid is basically a oil with friction modifier. I know a GM guy that put the blue GM fluid for a 246 case in his sisters WJ for years with no problem. For him the oil was free.

 

I just did mine. I got the Mopar TC fluid from Amazon (get two quarts), and then buy four quarts of your favorite synthetic axle juice.. I used Valvoline 75W140 in both ends. Then I also got two bottles of the Mopar LSD fluid... one bottle in the rear (4 oz) and 2.5 oz up front. The "binding" that was happening is now gone.

Figured since I will be doing some towing from time to time, I wanted the heavier stuff in back.

 

Actually the Jeep dealer service depts here don't even consider the 80W-90 axle gear lube and install 75W-140 Mopar full synthetic in all front/rear WJ axles. This is regardless if you have the tow package or not.

Amazon also sells the 4oz bottles of Mopar friction modifier as an add-on item. In other words you'll get a discount when buying it with an additional $25 order with prime.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AC-Limited-Additive/dp/B000TTEX8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522089499&sr=8-1&keywords=mopar+friction+modifier

If you ordered a couple qts of the Mopar 247 transfer case fluid through Amazon the total would qualify for the discounted add-on price for the vari-lock/LSD axle friction modifier.

Know some go with high-quality gear oils like the Mobile1 synthetic which already has the LS additive in it. But the problem is how much friction modifier is in them and will you need to add more while if so how much? I'd rather not go by the trial and error method on these LSD axles and reason I go by Mopar exact amounts.

 

Actually the Jeep dealer service depts here don't even consider the 80W-90 axle gear lube and install 75W-140 Mopar full synthetic in all front/rear WJ axles. This is regardless if you have the tow package or not. Amazon also sells the 4oz bottles of Mopar friction modifier as an add-on item. In other words you'll get a discount when buying it with an additional $25 order with prime. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AC-Limited-Additive/dp/B000TTEX8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522089499&sr=8-1&keywords=mopar+friction+modifier If you ordered a couple qts of the Mopar 247 transfer case fluid through Amazon the total would qualify for the discounted add-on price for the vari-lock/LSD axle friction modifier. Know some go with high-quality gear oils like the Mobile1 synthetic which already has the LS additive in it. But the problem is how much friction modifier is in them and will you need to add more while if so how much? I'd rather not go by the trial and error method on these LSD axles and reason I go by Mopar exact amounts.

the redline gear oil is the only gear oil that on the bottle says its compatible with the qudra-drive axles. And if I remember members that used it didn't need to add and extra to get rid of the groaning, which is what one would have to do if the oil with the LS fluid was already in the oil and it groaned on sharp turns.

On top of that changing the oil every 30k miles I just used the Walmart synthetic. If I was going to double or triple that milage I would get the 20-30 dollar per quart oil.

 

Thanks for all the help. I think I'll go with something off the shelf but use Mopar friction modifier. Hopefully this will stop the groaning that I sometimes hear when turning. I'll post back with results when I get it changed.

 

When I first got my WJ a couple weekends ago, it was making the binding/groaning noise when turning, and after fresh fluid (Valvoline synthetic 75W140 in my case) and the proper Mopar LSD fluid, it's nice 'n quite 'n smooth. And the Vari-Lok is working NICE off-road.

 

:thumbsup:That's what I want to hear. Did you change the rear differential as well ? Looks like it is hard to get to with the gas tank cover in the way.

 

I used the Ammsoil fluid for my axels. I read in various sites that it was equal to the MOPAR Spec. I hope to hell thats right. I used the MOPAR fluid for my T-Case.

 

I just went to buy gear oil and all the 75w140 said limited slip on it. Does that mean you don't need the Mopar FM in it ? I don't want to put too much in there and mess anything up.

 

I just went to buy gear oil and all the 75w140 said limited slip on it. Does that mean you don't need the Mopar FM in it ? I don't want to put too much in there and mess anything up.

if it's a redline produce most likely your good. If it's not expect some sort of disappointment and needing to add some extra to stop the groaning.

 

They had Valvoline . Mobile 1, and Lucas. I couldn't find any without it unless it was 90w. I don't want to mess with adding more FM later. I guess I"ll need to order the Mopar stuff on-line,

 

I think the Walmart 75-140 was additive free. I use it and their 75-90 and change it often.

 

I wouldn't be too keen on using LSD oil in mine. I used the Redline which has been just fine.

 

I got my Valvoline Synthetic 75W140 at AutoZone with no LSD in it... Walmart was out of course.

 

I ordered ! gallon of Red line On line for $62.00. I hope it gets here by the weekend.

I want to order gaskets as well. Are the Lube Locker ones worth it ? And do I have a Dana 35 up front and a 44A in the back ? The only one I could find for the 44A said Dana 44 HD/A. I think that's probably different.

 

Dana 30 up front. The shape of the diff will tell you which rear axle you have. If it’s an oval, it’s a Dana 35. If not, it’s a 44A. The A stands for Aluminum, as the differential housing is stamped aluminum on 44A equipped WJs.


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Good choice going with the Redline and cheaper than ours over here in the uk.

 

I changed the gear oil in the front differential today and the groaning while turning is gone. I did a few figure 8's and the first couple made quite a bit of noise then it quited right down. Guess I don't need any extra FM. The Redline gear oil seems to work well.

As for the gasket, I used The Right Stuff and it worked well also. Let it sit for less than an hour then filled it up and took it for a test drive. No leaks. But I did park it in the garage for the night so I could see if it was leaking on the floor.

Thanks for all the helpful replies.:thumbsup:

 

I changed the gear oil in the front differential today and the groaning while turning is gone. I did a few figure 8's and the first couple made quite a bit of noise then it quited right down. Guess I don't need any extra FM. The Redline gear oil seems to work well. As for the gasket, I used The Right Stuff and it worked well also. Let it sit for less than an hour then filled it up and took it for a test drive. No leaks. But I did park it in the garage for the night so I could see if it was leaking on the floor. Thanks for all the helpful replies.:thumbsup:

+100 on The Right Stuff and the Redline oil is the only oil I know of with the correct amount of FM in it.

 

Drove it today. On pavement I still got a little groaning but I think it's coming from the rear. I'll try to change that next week if I have time. I have 2 bottles of Mopar FM just in case I need to add some. Then I'll do the transfer case. Still gotta order that.

 

Drove it today. On pavement I still got a little groaning but I think it's coming from the rear. I'll try to change that next week if I have time. I have 2 bottles of Mopar FM just in case I need to add some. Then I'll do the transfer case. Still gotta order that.

If you feel froggy buy two quarts of the amsoil fluid. I never got to use mine before I sold it. Gave the 4qts to the guy that bought it.

 

Diff covers with a drain FTW.... http://stores.hi-potek.com/jeep/

 

Transmission Fluid

Jeep Transmission Fluid

Preparing to change the transmission fluid in my Wife's Jeep, the subject of the proper fluid and parts became confusing. There are a whole range of after-market vs. Mopar products. They claim to be useful ('fits your vehicle') for the 2002 GC Overland 4WD 4.7 HO. At significant various prices and from various sources, I figured they just could not all be the same, nor all approved by Jeep.

Having several questions unanswered, and suffering from a bit of confusion as to whether they actually knew what they were selling I bought a copy of the Jeep 2001-2004 Shop Manual. Then decided to just get the expensive parts from Jeep. Wife paid good money for this rascal when it was new, it's been a gem, so let's not get cheap now.

The following is copied straight from the Jeep 01-04 Shop Manual:

TRANSFER CASE IDENTIFICATION:
Two versions of the NV242 are used in the WJ vehicles, NV242LD and NV242HD. The two transfer cases can be distinguished from one another by the rear output shaft retainer. The NV242LD uses a rubber boot to cover the rear output shaft, while the NV242HD uses a cast aluminum housing. Other than this difference, the two transfer cases are serviced the same.
* * * * * * * * *
(Transmission (Oil) Fluid): Mopar ATF Plus 4, Type 9602, automatic transmission fluid is the recommended fluid for Daimler-Chrysler automatic transmissions. Dexron II fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch chatter can result from the use of improper fluid. Mopar ATF Plus 4, Type 9602, automatic transmission fluid when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal.

A dark brown/black fluid accompanied with a burnt odor and/or deterioration in shift quality may indicate fluid deterioration or transmission component failure.

FLUID ADDITIVES: DaimlerChrysler strongly recommends against the addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than those automatic transmission fluids listed above. Exceptions to this policy are the use of special dyes to aid in detecting fluid leaks. Various "special" additives and supplements exist that claim to improve shift feel and/or quality. These additives and others also claim to improve converter clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation, varnish, and sludge. These claims have not been supported to the satisfaction of DaimlerChrysler and these additives must not be used. The use of transmission "sealers" should also be avoided, since they may adversely affect the integrity of transmission seals.
* * * * * * * * * *
So, even though some of the after-market products might work for awhile, or forever, why take a chance. Besides, when Wife decides she wants a new car (Jeep or whatever) I'm going to trade in my truck and keep her Jeep. :wink2: