I did say the the 2150 is rebuilt, but again, it ran like crap, and IIRC, there were some adjustments that needed to be done and I don't have the specs/ measurements to do that right. So either way, I'd be rebuilding the 2100 for the first time or re-rebuilding the 2150.

 

The only difference is the 2150 has an altitude compensating solenoid that you probably won't even use.

It can be hooked up to kick up the idle if you have an engine driven air compressor or on-board welder.

 

I don't know the specifics on the differences in the two carb but I know if you rebuild the 2100 the setting will be lost so you are not winning any battle s that way. Why would you need to rebuild the 2150 again? Seems to me you should just put it on and get it setup right. Probably just idle mixture adjustment to get it running good and that is fairly easy.

 

I may throw the 2150 on there again to see what happens. I took another look at the leak, and still can't tell for sure where its coming from. It looked like there was a drop coming off the rod that goes into the pump; the one that the pump rod is connected to. I took the carb off, and all four bolts on the pump cover and the economizer cover were tight. I wiped the area down good, put it back on, and had nothing leaking till I moved the throttle. When I did that, I had a bubble form on the economizer bolt. It was hard to see, but I think it came from the hole on the pump cover here-

I had the same leak there when I rebuilt the 2150 except it was alot worse. What is this hole for?

 

Rebuild it. Your kit will have a new gasket for that pump. No, it shouldn't leak. The kit will have instruction on how to set the bowl levels for you application and how to set the idle screws. I used a vacuum gauge on mine and it was so simple it makes you feel stupid. I've got both type carb and they seem to run the same.

 

:thumbsup: Mine leaked a little too (MC2100 carb) I replaced the accel pump and gasket... It worked! No leak...

 

The reason I am hesitant on rebuilding the 2100 is because its running fine, but with the leak I'm going to have to do it. I found a kit on ebay for $25, so I'm waiting for that to come. I would finish working on the 2150, but when I was putting it back together, the big gasket didn't fit it correctly so I used a little silicone, then read to never do that.... It was very easy to rebuild, so I'll do this one when I get the kit.

 

both the accel pump cover and the power valve cover are known for warping.

 

Keep track of your adjustments so you can return to a zero point and start fiddling with the screws. You really shouldn't be rebuilding your own carb if you're unwilling to touch the adjustments once installed. Adjustment is a key part of any carburetor installation, new used or rebuilt. There's a high risk any carb you install will run terrible unless you're willing to touch the screws.

 

I know that I need to count the turns on the screws so that I can get them back to where they are right now. I remember adjusting the bowl was easy with the included tape measure. I don't remember exactly what I was having trouble with on the 2150, but I think it was getting the bolts in the right place on the throttle plate? I think they were way off, and even missing some.

 

I got the carb torn down and soaking in some cleaner. Its pretty rough, and had some dirt down in the bowl, but it'll clean up nice. I noticed a few items that I have questions on. The throttle rod was connected to the top hole as you see here-

I was thinking I had read that the different holes were to adjust for higher/ lower elevation? On a 360, where should it actually be?
Also, in the same pic, that blue zip tie is holding the bolt to the plate. Any ideas why its like that?
Thanks!

 

Most of what I have read indicates that you should have your throttle set at the second or third hole for best performance, but you have to try them out and see what gives the best.

Pretty sure the 2100/2150 rebuild kit is the same kit. You should have extra parts after your rebuild the 2100.

I'm guessing the blue zip-tie is keeping the bolt out of the way of your linkage. Maybe you could just remove it?

 

With the age of your engine, and the high likelihood it's got something other than a factory matched diff gear and camshaft and exhaust you should consider all linkage positions as viable options to improve driveability.

good luck with your jeep

 

I rebuilt it and tried to fire it up, and it wouldn't stay running. I wasn't thinking and just adjusted the large bolt that runs the throttle up, and it was running fast and didn't sound right. Then I remembered I had adjusted the idle screws out only 2 turns like it said in the directions. They were originally out 3 turns, so I adjusted them to that and it ran great. I drove it for awhile last night, and everything was fine.
I got in it this morning and it wouldn't start; it won't turn over at all. On the round choke cover, there is a setting, and I lined the mark up in the middle, but I'm not sure if that is correct. It shows that turning it clockwise is "Lean". If I don't have that set right, will that affect the starting?

I did have extra parts and gaskets left from the kit. All of the gaskets matched up correctly, unlike when I rebuilt the 2150. I'm going to play with it more tomorrow and cut that zip tie to see what happens.

 

I rebuilt it and tried to fire it up, and it wouldn't stay running. I wasn't thinking and just adjusted the large bolt that runs the throttle up, and it was running fast and didn't sound right. Then I remembered I had adjusted the idle screws out only 2 turns like it said in the directions. They were originally out 3 turns, so I adjusted them to that and it ran great. I drove it for awhile last night, and everything was fine.
I got in it this morning and it wouldn't start; it won't turn over at all. On the round choke cover, there is a setting, and I lined the mark up in the middle, but I'm not sure if that is correct. It shows that turning it clockwise is "Lean". If I don't have that set right, will that affect the starting?

I did have extra parts and gaskets left from the kit. All of the gaskets matched up correctly, unlike when I rebuilt the 2150. I'm going to play with it more tomorrow and cut that zip tie to see what happens.

I think if you turn your adjuster screws out about 2 1/2 turns you're going to be very close to where you need to be.

When you say that the engine doesn't turn over at all, it makes me think that when you turn the key nothing happens?? Maybe just a click? Or are you saying it cranks (engine turns) but it doesn't fire? Not turning over has nothing to do with the carburetor. Not turning over is going to be electrical... well, it could be a lot of things, but it isn't carb. Can you expound?

 

yeah, that was worded wrong. It turns over but won't fire. It has gas and it normally takes a little coaxing to fire up on cool mornings, but wasn't having it this morning. I'm assuming choke?, but I have no idea...

 

Are you aware that a carbed vehicle with a choke requires you to floor the pedal once to close the choke plate and then try to start it?

Lotsa younger people don't know that about older vehicles.

 

Yes, I did do that. I'm used to having to give it alot of pedal to get it going. It was in the garage and I didn't want to flood it, so I stopped when I knew it wasn't going to happen.

I took some advice from here and took pics of the carb before I tore into it, and I'm glad I did. I found one of the choke before I took the cover off. Right now, I have the cover in the position so that "Motorcraft" would be parallel with the base. That puts the mark on the cover with the middle mark on the carb. Looking at the pic, you can see that that is way off. The red is the middle mark on the carb, and the yellow is close to where the mark is on the cover.

I understand how the choke works, but I don't know how to adjust it, and I don't even know if that is my issue. Will google it to see what I can find.

 

I didn't have enough time before work to check to see if the choke was closed or not, but I'll be able to work on it tomorrow.

 

I'm trying to think of how that bi metal spring was wound in the choke. I'm thinking that turning the cover clockwise like to the point it is in the pic, will wind that spring tighter. Will that do anything for my non-starting issue?

 

So after internet research, I know now that turning the cover clockwise would make it more lean meaning the choke just stays closed longer. So that probably has nothing to do with the non-starting. Maybe the choke isn't closing all the way for some reason.
This can't be to difficult to figure out tomorrow; as long as it has fuel getting to it, and the choke is closed, it should start up. It ran perfect last night after adjusting the screws, so I don't know what happened as it sat overnight.

 

You're sure the gas is getting down the carb? You watched it squirt as you twisted the linkage with your hand? Could you have inadvertently unplugged a wire? Coil? Got spark? Obvious questions I know, but that's what I turn to when I get overwhelmed! Fuel filter?

 

I wasn't able to do that this morning, as it was 5am, dark and cold. I'll be able to check the items you mentioned tomorrow when I get home. My filter is clear so I'll be able to see if its full, and moving the throttle I'll be able to hear gas being sprayed, so if I have all that, that tells me I have no spark right?
If that isn't the issue then I can pour a little gas down the carb and see if it fires. And of course I'll see if the choke it wide open or closed.
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll post what I find tomorrow.

 

Don't depend on hearing gas being sprayed. With the engine off, remove your air filter, lean over the carb, and pump the throttle linkage with your hand. The choke valve should be open so you can see down the throat of the carb. When you pump the linkage, you should see gas shoot into the carb. It'll be a pretty good jet of gas, not just a dribble. This the one you just rebuilt?

 

Yes, I rebuilt it yesterday. Had it running smooth as can be last night, and then nothing this am.

 

Eliminate the gas thing. That'd be the first step. Other thing might be a big vacuum leak, but we can cover that later. Incidentally, I'm not the best resource for carb stuff! I have already done it with the 2100, that's why I know something about it, but there are MUCH better carb guys out there, so don't get frustrated. It's a great carb, and I have one on each of my CJs.

Edit- did you use any sealant on the joining surfaces of the carb?

 

I checked for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb, and didn't have any. I didn't use any kind of sealant anywhere- just the new gaskets and the thick gasket between the intake and carb.

 

Good deal... I was wondering if some trash might have gotten inside the carb during the build. You say you have a clear fuel filter... not the metal one with the two outlets?

 

Yeah, its the clear plastic one. I don't like the fact that its plastic, but its nice to be able to see that there is gas at least getting to the filter, and with the metal ones, you can't see that.

 

I got home this morning and the thing fired right up. I had a full fuel filter, and good spray into the carb. Turned the key and it lit up. I ran it for about 30 minutes, got it up to temp, and it ran fine, but I noticed that at stop lights, it seemed like it was trying to die on me. I figured it was the choke, and when I got home I noticed the choke was still in the closed position. From what I've read, if I turn the choke cover clockwise, it will make it leaner and keep the choke closed longer. So I would want to adjust it counter clockwise right, or is there something else I should be adjusting?

 

Not trying to answer your question, but with the choke plate closed a rich condition is created. Less air means less air in the air/fuel mix.

You just need to adjust it so that when it's warm a quick blip of the throttle opens the plate, whichever direction that may be.