I own a 2005 LJ that is plagued with the P0344/0340 code (camshaft position sensor intermittent interruption - bank 1 - sensor 1). When the code came up a few months ago, I replaced the camshaft position sensor with a factory one. I deleted the code and the code came back the next day. I unplugged the sensor and all of the ECM plugs and made sure they were all clean and then deleted the code again. After 2 days, the code came back. I took it to the dealership and they performed the P0344 TSB, I took it home and the code came back the next day. I took it back to the dealership and they kept it for 3-4 days. They said they checked every connection in that system and performed several tests. A few things they did included relearning the sensors as they found the sensor sync to be off by 11 degrees. They set it to zero. They checked for shorted circuits on K900, K44 and F856. They said the code did not return and they could not find anything that would have caused it in the first place. I took it home and the code came back after 2 days.

3 trips to Rockwall Dodge and each trip they say they have it fixed. Code always comes back the day after I pick it up. Same issues, same code. They even had a ticket in with the manufacture support program. I figured out early on that it was clear that they had no clue as to what was happening because they didn't charge me and this last time they seemed to throw out some things they "noticed " where wrong but not once tried to sell me the fix.

I tested a theory of mine. If I start the Jeep When the ECT is below 90 degrees, the P0344 code comes back and the engine rev limits around 2400 (limp mode). I let the engine idle until it reaches normal operating temperature. I use my scan tool to clear the code and the code stays gone all day. I can drive it all day and the code does not come back and no limp mode. It can even sit for multiple hours and when I drive it again, everything works fine. It seems like anytime the ECT drops below 90 degrees, the code comes back. It has to sit overnight for the code to return unless it's cool outside. If the ECT falls below about 80 degrees, the engine requires very long cranks to start. I'm SO frustrated. Does this issue sound familiar to anyone? I've scoured the internet and have not found an instance where this was a continuing issue and the fix was found.

Oh, and I replaced the OPDA last year with a Doorman unit. The only reason I replaced the camshaft position sensor is because I've read a lot about the Doorman sensors going bad pretty quick. So, when the code came up, I just decided to replace the Doorman sensor with a factory one. The OPDA gear and the camshaft both show a little wear, but it's not bad. This seems to be a temp issue to me. I'm stumped and extremely frustrated. If I want to drive the Jeep at all, I have to go through the entire process of heating it up first and then making sure the ECT stays above 90 degrees. PITA!

I forgot to mention that I'm getting real time accurate ECT from the Live Data function on my Scan Tool. So, when I'm mentioning ECT, it's not a guess, it's what the computer is showing. Now, this may not be the parameter that is causing the DTC to trigger, but it's just the most obvious to me.
ECT - above 89-90 degrees - starts, runs, no codes
ECT - below 89 degrees - starts, will not rev above 2300 RPM, code P0344/0340
ECT - below low 80's - long crank, starts, will not rev above 2300 RPM, code P0344
Trigger of DTC requires ECT to be above 200 degrees (usually 205-210) before code can be erased

I took the Jeep to a small shop the other day to a tech that I trust and he mentioned that it is possible that the timing chain could have enough slack to trigger those codes. I've heard a slight rattling sound on cold start-ups for a while, so I thought I would give it a try. Although the old chain did have some slack in it, a new kit did not fix my problem. After doing some testing and diagnostics of the systems and wiring that could cause those codes, he said that he thinks the computer is bad. He recognizes that problems are very rarely due to bad computers, but he seems pretty sure on this one.

I performed a resistance check on the wires from the PCM to the CPS and there is zero resistance. All seems good. It got really cold here the other day and I had to put the Jeep in the garage with my garage heater pointed down onto the motor just to warm it up enough to clear the codes. On the way to work the under hood temps dropped low enough for the codes to return while driving. I'm starting to lean towards this really being a PCM issue. I'm going to look into sending mine in and having it checked and rebuilt instead of getting one from them. If anyone else has any suggestions, I'll take 'em.

I just hate to keep throwing money at it. But, if I were to get a computer for it, does anyone have suggestions for a reputable company with a good track record? I'm about to the point of giving up, I'm so frustrated.

Having the same issue

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Hey did you have the jeep dealership look for a flash because i just found one for the code 2005-2006 tj
The service bulletin number is 18-015-09

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Yes, they said they did the P0344 TSB.

 

Same exact issue happening with my '06 Rubicon (121,000 miles). Just updated my original post before I saw yours. I feel your pain.

I feel like you've probably read the same things I've been seeing, but I came across a post by other person that was having this problem. He did a PCM replacement and it didn't even correct the problem.

 

I can't remember where I read this but I recall somebody making aluminum foil "washers" to slightly open the gap between the cam sensor and the tone wheel in the OPDA. Might be worth a shot if all else fails.

 

This?

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/op...4-1916969.html


REPORT IF THIS WORKS OR IF YOU TRY BUT THE CODE(S) COME BACK.

 

Not trying to take away from the real issue but whenever i click on a link in tapatalk it tkes me to a completely different page and it always goes to the same page

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I might have fixed it, but I'm going to hold off on explaining my "fix" for a bit to make sure it's really fixed. Waiting on some really cold days. I'm in Texas, so.............

 

Did it work ive read a lot about people replacing there oil pump drive assembly (OPDA) with a crown or dorman. Every post about that has said the same thing though make sure you use a OEM cam position sensor (CPS) otherwise the code will return.

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I've been dealing with these codes on and off during the winter months for the past 3 winters....

 

I've noticed the same cold weather issue with mine too. P0344 has cleared and no bucking since the weather has warmed up. I feel your pain. Pretty frickin frustrating problem.

 

Check the wire loom that passes over the dipstick bracket

 

Mine is all good. No damage there, surprisingly.

 

That gear looks pretty good. If the cam gear is that good, you should be OK.

Which kind of "play" are you getting?

There are 2 kinds of "play". One is the up & down play (end play) caused by the gap between the gear & the thrust washer. That is not too critical but can be adjusted. The other would be from excessive wear of the bushing(s) causing side-to-side play of the shaft/tone wheel. That is much worse. However, neither should affect the cam gear unless quite excessive. Usually gear wear would be caused by binding or drag on the shaft or poor quality gear construction or materials.

P0344 is common with aftermarket sensors & recently with "newer" Mopar sensors too. As noted previously, temperature is often a factor. Still working on whether the gap between the sensor & the tone wheel is causing the problem. That gap seems to be all over the place on the Dorman/Crown units. Any excessive side-to-side play will definitely affect the gapping so may contribute to getting codes.

My gap is about 0.021" on OEM OPDA & sensor, all original.

 

That gear looks pretty good. If the cam gear is that good, you should be OK.

Which kind of "play" are you getting?

From what I understood, he described noticing the play when rotating the wheel from left to right.

Sorry rockcrawlin, I feel like I'm derailing your post. I have one posted too, Rubi4MyMrs. Mine shouldn't be too far down the list. It's named"06 Rubi lugging/sputtering at half throttle". Same P0344 issue though.

 

Bought OEM crank and cam sensors today from the dealership. Will report back later.

 

New cam and crank sensors replaced. Read codes with computer after. P0340 disappeared P0344 stayed. Cleared it, CEL and limp mode came back in under a mile, and it's even 70 degrees outside. At this point I've replaced the OPDA (stock had only minor wear and didn't notice cam wear) both sensors, and ECM. I feel like I'm out of options here. Not sure what to do now other than let the dealership deal with it, or sell it. It's been almost 3 years of fighting with these codes, I'm fed up.

 

Were the sensors aftermarket? Did you have them try the PCM relearn by chance? It didn't work for me, but it's worth a shot.

 

Pretty sure they did that when I had put a new one in and faslghed it to my vin

 

My "fix" was that I just randomly picked a washer out of my washer bin and stuck it between the sensor and the OPDA to adjust the gap. I will measure the gap soon and post it here. I had also changed the spark plugs to a basic copper plug and increased the gap to .050. I'll also explain that later. Ok, so about a month after my "fix" and I have the same issue but it has changed. I got about 2 weeks or so with no issues, then about 2 weeks ago I started getting the P0016 code (mis-alignment). At first it didn't cause any driving issues, just a pesky code. Then it started going back to the limp mode issue but, the only code was P0016 and limp mode was around 3000 RPM. So, I adjusted it a few times one day and got it to run with no P0016 code and no limp mode. Then a few days ago, it went back to the P0344/P0340 codes but it didn't go into limp mode or throw the code unless the RPMs reached around 3800 to 3900. So, it seems that at this moment, as long as I keep the RPMs below that point I won't have an issue. For now! Still trying things.

 

.050 seems like a lot to me when it comes to sensitive electronic sensors. I would try .010 to .015 over the original gap setting possibly by using a heavy grade aluminum foil to make the washers. Another consideration is how much does our aging PCMs factor into all this. Luckily I only had this issue once and resolved it after replacing my new Mopar cam sensor (made in China) with my original cam sensor installed from the factory.

 

.050 was the spark plug gap, not the air gap on the OPDA.

 

Ok, so I can't measure the air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel because the washer I used (.058 thick) pulled the sensor into the hole of the OPDA, so it is no longer protruding into the housing. It has seemed to fix the issue of the code popping up at start up but it comes back if the RPMs reach around 3800. Im now trying a new washer (.052 thick) to see what happens. By the way, once I put the washer in last month, I haven't had any issues with the codes popping up at start up and I haven't had to go through the warm up process. Just a recap - I'm using a Crown OPDA and a new version of the factory camshaft position sensor with a washer placed between the OPDA and the sensor to increase the air gap.

 

If you read my posts in the thread linked below, especially 35 & 38 including the links in 38 you will find info showing:

1. The non-OEM sensors have a reduced signal output compared to the original OEM ones (before the "newer" OEM replacements were out so not tested).

2. Sensor gap is important based on some findings on the out of adjustment installation of adjustable sensors on the 2.4s.

3. The gap varies on the Dorman & Crown units compared to the original OEM OPDAs, sometimes greater, sometimes smaller.

Whether this completely answers why some are getting the P0344/P0340 codes is still an unanswered question.

It is also possible that excessive shaft end play could allow the wheel to rise up too high when running keeping the sensor from getting a good reading from the wheel.(?)

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/opda-sensor-p0340-p0344-1916969.html

 

Rubi, not sure if that was directed at me or not, but I'm aware. You and I have discussed this elsewhere. I tried the foil thing and it didn't work. I tried a really thin washer and that didn't work. I am currently using a washer that is .052" thick and a little longer bolt, which has pulled the sensor tip into the hole of the OPDA. I'm very surprised that the sensor being moved so far from the tone wheel is working. This morning was the test and it has passed so far. It was 40 degrees and I had no startup issues and while getting on the highway I got the RPMs up to 4K without any codes. We will see how it holds up.

 

Do you have any pictures of this setup. I am kinda confused. Thanks

 

"I'm really curious as to what effect the tone wheel/sensor gap has if any and how sensitive it actually is. Good luck and keep us posted."

More for TJTurbo & general info for anyone else reading this with the same problem.

Someone needs to come up with a solution all for those having this problem.

I have been following your attempts to fix this & am encouraged by what you have done so far.

 

Has anyone pinpointed a particular gap adjustment that works with a combination of any of the different housings and sensors? Also, maybe I have overlooked it, but does the FSM show the required spacing by chance?

 

I have a Crown OPDA with the factory original Mopar sensor. I am not getting any codes with this combination but I was with a new Mopar sensor. I will measure the gap next time I'm fiddling under the hood and maybe we can compile some data.

 

Not adjustable so no info in the FSM but if you follow the link in post 34 above you will see the info I have compiled trying to figure this out.

Also as noted above, the sensors on the 2.4s are adjustable & one guy did not know this & with it improperly gapped he got the same code (P0344) & limp mode when cold, just as is happening here. Getting it gapped properly fixed it. Also linked in the link.

REPORT ANYTHING THAT WORKS OR IF YOU TRY SOMETHING BUT THE CODE(S) COME BACK.

 

Ok, I'll check that post. I did notice the 2.5 post. An adjustable sensor on the 4.0 sure would be nice at this point.

Fingers crossed, but mine is 0344 free right now, since the OPDA was replaced last.(Dorman OPDA and sensor)

If/when it does, I'll update if I do figure anything out.

 

I have not seen any reports of P0340/P0344 codes with the original cam sensors. Only some of the non-OEM & recent replacement Mopar ones have. Irregular gap spacing seems to be part of the problem but surely the replacement sensors are more sensitive to these differences. Not all replacement ones have caused this issue but a number certainly have.

 

Anybody having P0340/P0344 codes might try this. Report results.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/cel-p0304-intermittent-camshaft-sensor-error-3998834/#post37693361

The one is used is:
Jeep
P#: CAM103-OE
Vendor: AIP Electronics
$20.00

REPORT ANYTHING THAT WORKS OR IF YOU TRY SOMETHING BUT THE CODE(S) COME BACK.

 

Same similar problem here! I've been dealing with it for some time. Changed OPDA's (3), Reman PCM/ECM, Sensors, now I'm working on the RM seal leak and am contemplating a new cam and lifters while the oil pan will be off??
What do ya think? worth a try?:crying2::crying2:

 

Not sure if you plan on replacing the lifters or not but if not here is a link that should help. Note the importance of properly lubing the lobes & don't forget the cam gear. Consider using high zinc oil like Valvoline VR-1 or a zinc additive too.

www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/2005-06-jeep-opda_cps_distributor-failure-1144202/index87.html#post11592070

 

I can't explain why, but here is one guy that finally did a cam replacement & apparently that fixed his P0340/P0344 issues after a long run around by 2 dealers… so…???

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/cam-crankshaft-difference-degree-3441498/

 

I can't explain why, but here is one guy that finally did a cam replacement & apparently that fixed his P0340/P0344 issues after a long run around by 2 dealers… so…???

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/cam-crankshaft-difference-degree-3441498/

Sounds the same as my story has started. Going off the pictures, his gear wear looks much less than mine too. Blahh...not good. I've mentioned all of the problems with this issue to the local dealership, and of course, they said they've never heard of it. Seems like an issue this widespread would be well known of at a dealership.