WOW - WOW speachless -


think twice - research- then act to repair.

Great story except the California part - but North I hear is different.

 

WOW - WOW speachless -

think twice - research- then act to repair.

Great story except the California part - but North I hear is different.

Yah, it's going to be a slow rebuild. First thing will be giving it a bath. LOL

 

Do a close inspection of the tailgate and rear fender areas for rust. That is the biggest issue with these rigs.
V6?
Auto?
If memory serves, some of the dash components are interchangeable with the Waggy/J series of that era.

 

I can't tell you the motor size yet. I do know it is a stick shift. I wish it was an automatic though. LOL I do know how to drive a stick, daily drove my VW Bus for 4 years, till I got my Jeep Liberty. LOL

 

I've always had a soft spot for the Commando's, especially in summer with the top off. Easier to get in and out of and a bit more cargo space.


Most of these have the Buick V6. If so, earlier models will have the T86 (unsyncro'd 1st) transmission. Later ones will have the T14 (syncro'd 1st). The T86 is balky but relatively strong, and can be rebuilt using T90 guts. Show care if it is the T14, as these are marginal behind the Dauntless and replacement parts are just about nonexistent.


Wagoneers of the same era came with the TH400 auto behind the Buick 350 offered, and if you can find one, it shouldn't be a hard swap.


The beauty is the extended wheelbase will allow you to install just about any transmission in there you want.



Take a good look at the rear end. Many Commando's (for some reason) came with a D30 in the back. These are serviceable, but marginal under heaver wheeling.


The steering will be a Ross style system and while beefier than the CJ's of the same year, will still be prone to slop. They can be rebuilt or upgraded to a Saginaw (power or manual) system.


I see somebody has "added" a turn signal regulator. The stock one should be a GM truck unit of the same year.

 

I missed the earlier comment about rear side markers. That was a mid-1970 change.

Yep. Halfway through the year or so. It's at least a '70, and maybe a '71. If a '71, it's possible that it has a Saginaw steering system (which would be awesome).

Most of these have the Buick V6. If so, earlier models will have the T86 (unsyncro'd 1st) transmission. Later ones will have the T14 (syncro'd 1st). The T86 is balky but relatively strong, and can be rebuilt using T90 guts. Show care if it is the T14, as these are marginal behind the Dauntless and replacement parts are just about nonexistent.

IIRC, The only year that got the T86 was '66. As far as strength goes, really not much difference between the two (the T86 might have a small edge). As far as parts availability Novak (for instance) can get parts for the T14, but not the T86. Either can be rebuilt, but it's a non-issue here as this tranny is certainly a T14A unless a PO swapped it out. I've done terrible things to mine when wheeling, but what killed it the one time I killed it was (believe it or not) a rolling jump-start. Wiped the input shaft and countershaft.

Take a good look at the rear end. Many Commando's (for some reason) came with a D30 in the back. These are serviceable, but marginal under heaver wheeling.

Killed my D30 twice doing really light 'Sunday wheeling with the kids'. Certainly it's the weakest drivetrain link on the vehicle (stuck a D44 in mine after the second D30 rebuild cratered).

I don't see the V6 logo...but although I know they were made, I've NEVER seen a 4-cylinder Jeepster, so hopefully the V6 badges are simply missing. The Hurricane F4 was a rugged motor, but a dozen well-fed hamsters could do a better job propelling a Jeepster up a long highway grade (ala previous experience with a CJ5 with a 4-banger). The Dauntless V6 has its own share of issues, but horsepower and torque are not among them.

Had my '69 since the mid-80's, and in that time pretty much anything that could go wrong has gone wrong at one time or another (excepting the motor and D20 transfer case).

If the V6 (or F4) has the air pump system still, trash it. No parts are available, and I can guarantee that it doesn't work right (or likely at all). Plug the holes in the exhaust ports of the heads with 1/2-13 x 1/2" socket set screws for a neat way to compete the removal. That'll leave the short separate tube that points to the back of the exhaust valve inside the head still...leave it for the day the heads get pulled for whatever reason (but if my 225 ever died, I'd be looking for a late '70/early 80's 231 even fire motor).

FYI, this book here is invaluable: http://www.thejeepsterman.com/shopexd.asp?id=96

 

Wow, great info JeepDaddy. Thanks!

Someone told me that if it is a 71 it would probably have the saginaw steering. Then someone told they thought it was a 71. I really don't know yet. We leave in 3 days from now to go get it. Can't wait.

 

If it has Saginaw steering, some prior owner swapped it in. Jeep didn't start using Saginaw steering until '72 and yours is definitely '71 or older.

 

Looks late 60s or so. I had a '72 model this same color but with the "ugly front clip" instead of the Jeep style grill. I would think it would still have the v6 badges if it has the Dauntless odd fire v6 in it. but they may have been removed. You can take a pic of the motor and post it and we will be able to narrow that down. Commandos are rare and not seen very often now days so it is a good restoration project to do....unfortunately you have Cali emissions to deal with...….yuck

 

unfortunately you have Cali emissions to deal with...….yuck

Cali emissions don't apply to '75 and older models.

 

I will post more pics when I get home with it. Where it is located right now, there is not wifi, and I don't like posting stuff from my phone. So pics will have to wait till next week.

Oh, and yah, I won't have to deal with Smog with it being below a 76 vehicle. 75 and down is no smog.

Someone told me it was a 71 or older because of the reflectors on the fender. That is all I know.

 

'71 or older due to the flat "Jeep" seven slot grill. '72 and up have a different "Bronco" or "Blazer" style front grill. Original late 40s Jeepsters (which are 2wd only) were a pointed grill like the Willys Wagons. Then they went with the flat grill then the rounded full grill look for the last generation.

 

I've had 3, a '68 (C101) and both a '72 and '73 (C104). Yours is a beaut! I'm a big fan of them!

I have to ask, what part of Washington? It wouldn't by chance be in the Edgewood/ puyallup area, would it?

Anyways, '71 up had Saginaw steering (w power option), a closed knuckle 27 up front, and D44 out back. Pre-71s had the D30 rear. All had drum brakes from the factory -they tend to suck in stock form.

I think it's a '70- '71 because of the rear reflector on the side of the tub. (But that's a guess)

My '68 came stock w/ the auto trans, it's a Buick set-up behind the odd-fire dauntless motor. That, and the F134 i4 where the only factory motors.

Guage cluster and controls are the same as the J-trucks for the same years.

Hoss

 

This is the '72-73 version of the Commando. It's quite different than '71 and older.

 

Yah, those are called Bull Nose. I thought it was 73 that started the bull nose, but if it is 72, then mine is definitely not one of those years. LOL If 70 models didn't have the reflectors, then mine has got to be a 71.

 

I missed the earlier comment about rear side markers. That was a mid-1970 change.

 

As far as parts availability Novak (for instance) can get parts for the T14, but not the T86.

The T86 can (could?) be rebuilt with T90 guts and is on par with it strength wise. The T90 saw service behind many GM conversions in the early CJ's and if used with care would hold up well.

As far as the T14, I've seen a shopping cart full of failed boxes over the years (2 of them were mine). It's good to know there are still hard parts available as the last one I saw broken (about ten years ago) was unrepairable due to a lack of a countershaft (all of the failures I have seen included the countershaft), but I didn't check with Novak so perhaps they still have a stock of the cluster gears.

 

The T86 can (could?) be rebuilt with T90 guts and is on par with it strength wise.

Didn't know that.

As far as the T14, I've seen a shopping cart full of failed boxes over the years (2 of them were mine). It's good to know there are still hard parts available as the last one I saw broken (about ten years ago) was unrepairable due to a lack of a countershaft (all of the failures I have seen included the countershaft), but I didn't check with Novak so perhaps they still have a stock of the cluster gears.

Novak gets cluster gears on an infrequent basis, but they do seem to find them when necessary. But there's no way I'd rebuild my T14 if I killed it again. Nope...T18 here I come.>

 

Looking (very) hard, I believe that's the V6 emblem on the top forward edge of the passenger door.

You can see them here on my '68

Hoss

 

Ok guy's, just got back from picking up the Jeepster. Here are some pics. And yes, it has a V6 emblem. Only on the passenger side though?



Kind of rough. LOL







You can see someone patched it in a few places. Also needs more patches. LOL













Love the hitch.


This reflector appears to have been made to go in this location. What goes in the holes below?















So, the plan as of right now is to first take it to the car wash and blast it. LOL Then we will bring it back home and my first thing I would like to fix is the doors. They will not stay shut. One of them has a bound up inside door handle and I really don't know what is going on with the other. The window on the driver door also doesn't roll up all the way. Once I can get it so the rain will somewhat stay out of it, I will move onto other things.

 

And....is that a 1955 Chevy Bel Aire in the background in that one picture? Did you get that too? My dad bought one when he and mom came back from being stationed in Germany in the 60s and we still have it in the family...

 

And....is that a 1955 Chevy Bel Aire in the background in that one picture? ...

That's a '54...

Hoss

 

It looks like the top taillight was raised up perhaps????

 

Yah, don't understand why they did that. I will be moving them back down to where the are supposed to go. I plan on staying somewhat stock, but not totally. Willing to change things like the motor and tranny, but not too much on the body. Also want to lift it one day.

Speaking of motors. What motors can bolt to the tranny? Honestly, I don't know what one is in it as of yet. I do know it is a stick. You guy's can see the pics above, what motor is it? I think it is the 225. At least that is what it looks like the tag on the radiator support says.

We are thinking of maybe trying to put a small V8 in it. Will some sort of small V8 work??

 

The Saginaw box is the de-facto standard bit of steering kit for 90% of the vehicles on the road in the 60's and 70's & later. Sportier cars got rack & pinion, but the Saginaw is a good, tough unit and beats the hell out of the Ross steering box that the earlier CJ's and Jeepsters were equipped with. Only thing better would have been if it was a power box instead of manual (unless yours is a power box and some dunderhead threw away the pump and the bracket, which would make steering a real chore).

The Saginaw also allows an easier conversion to hydraulic clutch, and for adding headers (if you were so inclined). Models with the Ross steering had the same exhaust manifold on both heads, so the drivers side exited to the front in order to clear the steering box (and why you see vintage Jeep guys always looking for a drivers-side rear exit exhaust manifold, just like the one on your Commando, so they can convert to Saginaw steering & the rest).

 

Here's some pics of the steering.










That's about as good as I could get of the steering box. It's still on the trailer so chains are in my way. We are going to take it to a car wash before we take it off the trailer. I was hoping to get to it yesterday but go to busy. Hopefully this weekend we can run it over there. I would like to putter with it a bit, and it's hard to walk around the edges of the trailer. LOL

 

Today after work, since it was so nice and sunny out, I went and puttered a bit on the Jeepster. I got some Deep Creep and went to work on lubing some of the bolts and hinges and all. The hood hinges are pretty stiff so I loaded them up with Deep Creep several times. I kind of worked them back and forth a bit, but now I am just letting the deep creep, creep. LOL

I found these 3 screws in the driver side fender under the hood. What did they hold at one time?



This is the passenger door hinge area. Am I missing a rod to hold the door from swinging too far?



Looks like I need a gas pedal. LOL



I'm hoping to be able to bend that bottom piece back up to try to fix the hole for the radio.



Found these 3 holes in the trunk area. What do they hold? Spare tire bracket or something?



Finally figured out how to open the tail gate. Wasn't to hard once I figured out there were bolts keeping the latches from opening. LOL





I also Deep Creeped the passenger door innards. The window and the inside door handle are frozen solid. I sprayed as much as I could up inside it. Hoping it will start to loosen it up. I tried to take the door handle and window crank handle off, but can't figure out how they come off. I took the screws out and thought I would be able to just kind of walk them off the post, but they didn't budge. Is there another pin or something holding them on? I can't see past the rubber gaskets that are on them.

That is all I got accomplished today.

 

Can't help you with most of your 'today' questions, but...

... I'd be remiss if I didn't acknowledge those sweet-a** Captain America door straps!

Hoss

 

That is indeed a Saginaw manual steering box. Congratulations. The Ross unit is poor at best.



You can keep the existing box or source a pump and brackets for a power steering upgrade.


Rust is a real issue on these rigs and yours seems to have more than it's share. It is especially prevalent around the rear wheelwells and the tailgate area(as you can see). I see there has been some patching back there. Take a good look at the area to insure it is solid or repairable. In fact, take a hard look at the entire body and work up a repair/cost sheet to see insure you want to invest in getting it back on the road. You can use a screwdriver and try to punch through any suspect areas. If it goes through, you're gonna have to repair/replace that spot. Unlike mechanical issues, body work takes a LOT of time and in some cases, can't be repaired without extensive fabrication. Just something to think about before investing money in the engine, brakes, axles, etc, just to hit a bump and have a door fall off..........

 

None of those mystery holes are factory holes. Prior owners would have to know what they were used for.

If a hole looks drilled, having a raised edge around the circumference, someone drilled it. The factory holes were punched, not drilled.

 

Holes are factory (I see five of them). The four towards the front are for the mounting of the 1/2 cab hardtop (pickup style):

When the back seat is installed, the outer two holes are for bolting it down, and the inner two are unused (the two inner ones are filled with silicone seal on my Commando).

The two towards the rear are for the spare tire mount. All the holes are backed with a welded, captive nut on the underside.

 

I was wondering where the spare tire was supposed to go. Thanks for the info.

Anyone have pics of one. Would like to put mine where it was supposed to go originally.

 

Mine was missing when I bought it, but Off Road Specialty in Garden City, ID (RIP) had a bunch of old Jeeps and a few Commando's back in the 80's and I got most of the missing pieces from a trashed Jeepster. I'd take a pic, but the back of mine is currently packed with engine parts as I'm in the process of a top end rebuild.

There's just a flat piece with a 'hoop' in the middle that served as the hold down for the 'J' bolt...something like this that bolts to the floor:

Then there's the 'J' bolt that goes into the hoop of the hold down, and the hub blocking piece & wing nut:

Funny that all the ads back in the 60's touted the storage room for groceries and such, but once you have the back seat in place and the spare tire mounted, that storage space is pretty much the same as your average motorcycle with a sidecar.

 

Thanks, that gives me something to look for or try to make. At least I have an idea what to look for. But then again, like you said about the space, I may end up getting a swing away spare holder one day.

 

Got a little bit done to the Jeepster today.

I pulled all the plugs and poured some transmission fluid down the cylinders. That is to help loosen things up if they are stuck. I did try to turn the motor over by pulling on the fan, and it did move a little, so that is kind of good. Then I put the plugs back in, just finger tight, so I could blow out the engine compartment. I should have done that first, but hey, it's done now. LOL

Plugs didn't look bad.




I checked the oil, and it's a bit black. LOL Course it is better then being milky brown.



Then I blew out the interior. We were supposed to go to the car wash to pressure wash it all, but hubby decided not to. So I blew all the dirt all over his garage. LOL I did pic some of it up though.



I still want to hose it out and scrub it with a brush, but it didn't come out to bad.







While blowing it out, I found these. Thought they were cigarette butts at first, but then picked them up and saw what they were. They will stay in the Jeep from here on out. It's just something I do when I get a new to me car. I clean it out and always keep something I find with the car. My Ford F100 has a pull tab I found in it that went to an old beer can. My bus has a pin I found in it, and so on. I will probably end up drilling a couple holes in the shells and hanging them from the mirror.



I sat in it and stepped on the clutch pedal and brake pedal. The seem kind of loose but not sure how they are supposed to actually be. Anyway, I looked up under them to see if I could see anything that would make them loose and that is when I spotted this. I have never seen a clutch cable go down through the floor like that. Interesting. LOL



This is the driver side floor board. As you can see, I will have some work cut out for me, literally, LOL. I plan on eventually getting that stuff out and maybe do some sort of a road sign floor or something. Not sure yet.



The thing I am most excited about that I accomplished today, was I finally got the doors to open and stay closed.

I still have to work on the windows. Tried as I may, I couldn't get those things to budge. I do think there is something wrong in the passenger door. I think part of the track is missing?

Here is a pic looking back toward the passenger door latch. I don't see a track.



This is the driver door, there is a track.



Any info you guy's have on the tracks for these, would be much appreciated. Pics would be even better. LOL I do better if I can see what the track is supposed to look like.

And finally, just some garage shots I took. Love the look of this thing.







I'll probably go back out tomorrow after work and see if I can turn the engine over more than what I did today. Hopefully the tranny fluid loosens things up and I will be able to salvage this engine.