I've done this swap, as have a number of folks on this forum. Mine was on an AX 15 instead of the AX 5 though and I don't want to lead you astray. There are a few helpful tidbits I can pass along--You will also find AX 5 external slave parts from '97-'02 models, so you are not just limited to 94 and 95 YJ's. When you purchase the clutch kit it will have the TO bearing in it, and you should replace the clutch/pressure plate/pilot bearing while you're in it. You can look for used front input shaft bearing retainers from places like Zumbrota bearing and gear, and ebay is a good source for these parts. You should replace the seal in it, only about $7, and worthwhile doing it. The clutch pivot is most likely going to be already on the bell you purchase, and the fork is the same PN as the AX 15, so these are interchangeable. The pre bled master/slave/hose unit is highly recommended and is a direct bolt in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-Transmission-Bell-Housing-97-02-2-5L-4-cyl-Ext-Slave-AX5-YJ-/220651989899?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item335fe22b8b

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-AX5-Transmission-Bell-Housing-97-02-manual-trans-/220605436670?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item335d1bd2fe

http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-02-Jeep-WranglerTJ-AX5-Bell-Housing-Clutch-Cover-2-5L-4-Cylinder-Engine-/130630283792?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6a2bf210

Photo of the setup in a 94 YJ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-AX5-Bellhousing-External-slave-Wrangler-XJ-YJ-TJ-/270596153947?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f00c9a25b

This one looks like the winner:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-AX-5-E.../390367750708?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ae3bb2a34

Link to some part numbers, 11615 for the seal, 83502685 for the long snout input bearing retainer. Google that PN and you'll find a variety of pretty inexpensive options.

http://www.mackstrans.com/AisinAX5.html

 

Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. This started out with only intending to replace the rear main seal. And now it's turned into converting to external slave, replacing the clutch, as well as replacing the oil pan gasket. Anything else i should do/look at while my tranny is sitting on the floor of my garage?

 

Another quick question. Sorry if it's dumb but i just like to double check. Since im converting to an external slave and theoretically changing that part of the jeep to a "94", when i purchase a clutch kit i need to make sure it is for a 1994 model, right?

 

Yes, you tell the counter man that you want parts (clutch kit, master/slave/hose unit for a 94 model YJ 4 cyl AX5)

You may have only intended to replace the RMS, but that's how all great Jeep stories begin..........

 

YOu're on the right track. While you have the trans off, you should not miss the opportunity to replace the ONE PIECE RMS on your 4 cyl. The only way to get to this to do it is while the transmission is out. Drop your pan as well and clean out all the junk in there. Chase the threads in the oil bung, and replace that bung while you're at it. Bung was 1/2" X 20tpi fine thread in my AX 15, but yours could vary. Re-look at my first posting above as I have added in some links you may have missed.

Read thru this FAQ sticky on the ext slave assembly, and don't cut the shipping straps!! http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/basic-maintenance-external-clutch-slave-unit-1112094/

Also in the FAQ there are some AX 15 internal to external swap threads that could help. Since we don't have one on the AX 5 internal to external swap, take a ton of photos, include PNs and do your own write up on this, we obviously need one.

Decide what you are going to do with your flywheel, Jeep FSM says to not grind it, replace it with new--not too expensive from O'reilley's/NAPA/etc, or consider resurfacing it at a machine shop which is what I do, but only X 1, then I replace them. Good luck.

 

My next dilemma...
Visited a nice local shop that sells a bunch of used jeep parts. Got the bell housing I need, but ran into a problem with the front bearing retailer. Theres 3 different types of retainers I've seen now. The retainer off my 93 has no neck, can't use it obviously. Theres another retainer with a 3 inch neck and another with about a 6 inch neck. Do I need the 3 or 6 incher? Dude at the shop says the 6 incher but didnt sound too sure of himself.

 

You will know based on the length of the input shaft on your transmission. It should be the shorter one. The end of it will come up to, but will not cover the splines on the input shaft your clutch slides back and forth on. The photo below is of an AX 15, but the length of the input should very closely approximate that of the AX 5. Six inches would cover over the splines.

Here's another view of the same AX 5 I posted earlier. While you can't see the snout, you can see it does not cover over the splines of the input shaft. If it did, there would be no splines for the clutch to ride on. When you look at the input of your tranny, it will be very obvious to you.

To be totally honest, I know of only a single length input snout for this tranny, and it is news to me that there could be 2 and with such a dramatic difference in length.

 

I think you're right, Opi. Just measured the shaft. The whole shaft is about 7 inches and the splines start at about the 3.5 inch mark.
Thanks for all the help and quick responses!

 

So how much did the parts cost? Bell, fork, retainer, etc?

For everyone else, this is what the flat faced input bearing retainer looks like that is used for the internal slave version.

 

The following items i purchased from carparts.com;

Part #: VLE52301404
1994 Jeep Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep- Valeo Clutch Kit Clutch Kit Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep-
Valeo
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 98.98

Part #: 53006388
1994 Jeep Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep- Crown Clutch Release Arm Clutch Release Arm Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep-
Crown
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 7.86

Part #: 52087542
1994 Jeep Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep- Crown Clutch Pivot Clutch Pivot Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep-
Crown
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 3.33

Part #: 4338855
1994 Jeep Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep- Crown Release Bearing Lever Spring Release Bearing Lever Spring Wrangler -openp-YJ-closep-
Crown
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 3.57

Sub Total: $113.74
Shipping: $16.89
Handling: $7.56
Tax: $0.00
Core: $0.00
Discount: $0.00
Total: $138.19


The bell housing and front bearing retainer i picked up from a local shop. $50 and $20 respectively.

And then the pre filled clutch master/slave cylinder assembly i picked up from Oreillys (Part # PFHK041). Paid $110 with a %10 discount. I could have picked up a used one for $25 but figured money spent on a new one would be well worth it.

I guess my total is about $320 thus far. Not bad at all when you look at everything that is being upgraded.

 

Good deal on the bellhousing and the bearing retainer. There is a part you didn't mention--there is a little spring thing that holds the clutch fork onto the pivot. Do you have that part? You can see it in the photos I put in above. Ten % discount though, you must be assigned to Fort Carson? They had a good auto shop back in 85-87 when I was assigned to the 4th ID, but of course there is Falcon Field and the AFA too.
Sounds like the package is coming together for you, hope you're taking a ton of photos of everything so you can do an awesome writeup. :thumbsup:

 

Is it the bearing lever spring? I have that part ordered, last part on the list of items from carparts.
Yep, you nailed it, Fort Carson. For a military town you just can't beat Colorado Springs. The parts store is FN Jeep, not sure if it's the same one you knew when you were here, but that place is awesome. You can pretty much find everything you need there.

 

Yeah, that would be the part. It just holds the pivot ball in the cup of the clutch fork--actually the other way around, holds clutch fork onto the pivot ball. Weak little spring, but it does the job once everything else is in place.
Do they still play that song on the radio there? "Pray for me, I drive Academy (Blvd)"

 

No idea about that. Never heard of it.

 

I'm thinking i picked up the wrong bell housing for this conversion. Tried putting together the clutch bearing and fork inside the housing but there is nowhere to screw the little pivot ball/screw thingy into. Where it looks like it should bolt in there is just a small "bowl" shaped pocket. looks like a ball of some sort should pivot in it. Think i picked up the wrong bell housing?

 

Submit numerous crisp photos from various angles of the entire bellhousing to include bolt patterns, external features and any identifying numbers in the casting.
Does this bellhousing have the proper space to bolt in the external slave unit?

 

I'm going to drop by the local jeep parts place real quick and see if they have anyhting that looks right to me. This new bell housing i already bought from them does have the spot to bolt on the external slave. I'll try to get some pics up when i get back.

 

Yea. If you can put up some pics it would help. Did the bellhouseing bolt up to the trans?

 

How do i post pics on here. I think i saw a post somewhere on how to; i need to go find that again.
The bellhousing does mate with the trans. From what i figured out the internals on the ax5 tranny with external slave are different from those of a ax15. I'm in the process of of drilling a hole through the bell housing where the pivot ball/bolt thingy would go and then im just going to secure with a nut and washer from the other side. Looks like it should work but we'll see.

 

Id sure like to see a pic. I don't know that there wasn't a place to secure the arm. I don't know how to put a pic on this. There should be a round (bolt) on the passenger side that the arm goes on to an is held in with a little clip. If it doesn't have that I don't know.

 

After a little modifying to the bell housing i got it all put together. Once im done and see if this will actually work i'll do a writeup and post a lot of pics.
Question now tho... I got the clutch and transmission put in over the past two days. Today i also got the master and slave cylinder put in (that was another pain in the butt). I honestly do not have a good feeling about all of this. Is it safe for me to go ahead and press the clutch in now just to see if it feels right? I'd like to know now if i have to pull the tranny again before i get the t-case and everything else put back together.

 

IF you have the components assembled properly, AND the end of the clutch slave rod is nestled into the dimple in the end of the clutch fork then there should be no reason you cannot depress the clutch pedal.

I don't understand why you say putting the master/slave in was a pain in the butt, it is all bolt together and should require no special modifications. Shouldn't be more of a challenge than removing a wheel off your Jeep. What was the issue there?

 

The slave wasn't sitting flush with the outside of the bell housing. I was thinking the clutch fork would shift on the inside of the housing but it was not budging. In order to get the slave to sit flush i had to push it in depressing the metal rod into the slave itself by forcing it on the pivot point on the clutch fork. Not sure if that is normal. Didnt feel like it, but i just rolled with it. I also had to drill new mounting holes in the slave. The original holes were about an eighth of inch each too wide in order to mate properly with the bell housing.

 

So do you recall what brand/model of clutch/slave/hose unit you went with? Doesn't seem that it should have required redrilling mount holes, or that the piston had to be "loaded" to be able to bolt it up. I suppose you'll be the first to know though.

 

Brand of the master/slave assembly is "power torque." Bought it through O'reilly Auto. Another concern i had was it was a little tough getting the slave cylinder to position on the passenger side of the tranny. Seems like the master/slave assembly was designed to fit on the driver side of the tranny. I worked it over to the passenger side but it just didn't feel like it should naturally go there. Seemed like i may have been putting a lot of stress on the hydraulic line.

 

That's it. They made two different bellhouseings. One with the slave on the drivers side and one on the passanger side. They both fit but I couldn't tell you what the differences are. I have no idea why they did that.

 

I was going to say this had been done to death - but it looks like you've searched.

Parts needed:
- External slave bellhousing & associated parts (fork pivot, fork.) 1994-up should work here, as well as for the FBR.)
- External slave cylinder
- Master cylinder (probably)
- Hydraulic line (if you're replacing the cylinders, might as well get the whole damned thing)
- Front bearing retainer (the external slave one has a sleeve for the T/O bearing to ride on - clutch won't work without it.)

You should be able to use the same clutch friction without any trouble, you're not changing anything that has anything to do with the friction. But, if it's worn, you may as well change it while you're in there. Use LocTite #242 (or equivalent) on the clutch cover screws when you put it back together - cheap insurance. I also prefer to use a quality (read: not Chinese) socket head capscrew to replace them. I know the screws on the 6-242 are SAE (3/8"-16x3/4") but I think the screws on the 4-150 are ISO (M8-1.25x20m/m? Take one in with you and check. I don't have my notes handy at the moment.)

 

Something is way wrong with your setup. The external clutch slave unit for both the AX15 and the AX5 is on the DRIVER's side of the transmission. It is not possible that you have the right bell.

How about some photos? Withs some photos, some of us could have saved you a lot of woe here. Do you remember looking at the photos I posted up of the AX5 bell with trans/clutch fork/slave in place?

Help us to help you. No one here wants you to waste time, money, effort, or compromise your safety in any way.