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Unread 10-06-2010, 09:49 PM   #1
Opihi59
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Basic Maintenance: The External Clutch Slave unit

First off, if you are fortunate enough to have an external clutch slave cylinder, take a moment to reflect on your blessing and good fortune before going on. If you are in the process of converting from internal to external, or are replacing your current external slave unit, there are a few tips you need to know that seem to be missed by many members of the forum, or transient visitors thereof. I don't have all the photos I would like to show, but will edit in ASAP when I get them. This will be a write-up in progress. The 94 and 95 YJ's with manual tranny came with the external slave unit, earlier models came with the internal slave unit unless it has been converted over. As the internal slave units are so much trouble to so many Jeepers, the less problematic external slave unit just doesn't get much notice because it is comparatively simple. It is so long as you follow some simple guidelines that have otherwise in general been neglected from mention in a writeup.

When you change out your clutch master cylinder, ferkrynoutloud strongly consider replacing your clutch slave unit and vice versa. There are many many (did I say "many" yet?) threads of woe in regards to "I replaced my clutch master (slave) and now my slave (master) is leaking" etc. The increased pressure/resistance developed by a single new component in the system results shortly thereafter in failure of the other component. Period. Don't post in and say you never had a problem or your 2nd cousin's younger brother's Aunt's roomate's ex-boyfriend did this and never had a problem. They just got lucky. Don't count on this happening for you. If you replace one of them, just dig deeper in the pocket and replace both of them while you are at it. If you don't believe this, I won't hold it against you, but I am going to start collecting all of these threads of woe and linking about 10 of them into this writeup in the future.

Edit-here they come......
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...-fluid-716310/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/n...inder-1439438/

Look at post #7 in this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c.../#post10579128

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/n...-info-1228408/

Post #3 in this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...inder-1238670/

Quote:
Originally Posted by phx92 View Post
Hi I've been reading the forums since purchasing my 92 YJ a year ago trying to learn more about my jeep but this is my first post.
Yesterday after starting, it made an awful grinding sound trying to get it into reverse and I didn't want to force it. Turning it off, pumping the clutch and letting it roll back it allowed me to shift into reverse without resistance.
I drove it around the corner but it wouldn't let me shift into 1st without turning it off. I parked it and continued to try different gears both while on and off. It seems to be stuck in 1st now even while off and there is no resistance at all in the clutch. There has been a leak at the bellhousing since about a week after the mc was replaced in Oct. The fluid in the mc res looks good
Would this be internal slave or a combination couple of things? Thanks for any suggestions
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
UPDATE: The one thing I didnt replace (slave cylinder) blew tonight The worst part is its internal
and look at post #12 within this current thread....

A first consideration in replacing your clutch slave unit. It comes with white plastic shipping straps which hold the piston into the bore of the slave unit. DO NOT CUT THESE STRAPS, THEY ARE DESIGNED TO BREAK AWAY THE FIRST TIME YOU DEPRESS YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL. They are like a little jock strap that retains the piston in the bore, and if this piston is launched, you may think you can get it back in but it will cause enough damage to the seals that your unit will be worth the equivalent of a truckload of dead rats in a tampon factory, and you will have to replace that unit. Generally it dies on you on the trail, or at the worst possible time, under the worst possible circumstances, when it will hurt you the very most. This is called Karma. Don't ***K with Karma.

Make sure when you install the new slave unit, the action end of the piston is properly nestled into the dimple in the end of the clutch fork up inside your bellhousing, otherwise even when you left on the shipping straps, when you depress the clutch pedal for the first time, you will hear a very sad dull clunk sound of your piston launching free into your bellhousing, and you will spray hydraulic/brake fluid from the ruined slave unit all over your clutch plate. This is badness.

There is a One-piece, pre-bled clutch master/hose/slave unit that you can purchase, it is bolt in and go. In fact the slave does not have a provision for bleeding, as indeed a lot of the currently available individual clutch slave units are not equipped with the bleeding screw on them. There is a complicated and pretty worthless "get the air out, hold unit at 45 degrees while facing west at high noon" description in the box, but it is complicated, frustrating, tedious and ineffective. There are only 2 nuts to remove to replace the slave, and 2 to remove to replace the master unit. There is only one sheet metal screw that stabilizes the hose between the two components. My teenagers could break a ball bearing with a rubber hammer--give them a few wrenches and they figured it out in about 10 minutes.

Here are some photos of the slave, in various forms. First of all the external slave in all its glory. You can see the part number on the tag for the whole assembly--the one piece assembly I described above.



Closer view of external slave unit. Note the white tabs, these are the residual tabs of the white plastic shipping strap. They just hang out there after you install. You don't need to pull them off even after they have snapped internally with the first clutch pedal depression, they just hang out there.



If you need to disconnect your slave unit from the hydraulic line, here is how you do it. It is held in place by a roll/tension pin. You can knock out the tension pin with a small pin punch while supporting the opposide side over a socket or equivalent. There is an O ring as a seal on the end of the line. This photo shows the technique on the master, but the application is identical on the slave unit.









Here is the pin out/line out on the slave unit. You can put the line in a new slave if this is the route you chose, and push/tap the tension pin back in place. You can get a new individual O ring if needed from your local hardware store like Ace, City Mill, Lowes, Eagle Hardware, etc.



The new verison of individually sold slave units frequently do not have the bleeder screw in the bleeder tower. I have seen both varieties in the partsplaces. This is the bleeder unit version in a variety of poses.











This is a shot down the "bleeder tower" of the newer version clutch slave. The one-piece, pre-bled unit comes with this style non-removable plug in the base of the bleeder tower. Note that there is no provision to unscrew this plug as you saw in previous photos with the allen head version. I have a theory upon which I will elaborate subsequently.



Theory--I have not been able to test this out, since I do not have a scrap/spare "non-bleedable" variety at my disposal to take apart, and have asked various forum members to mail me their old ones so I can play with them, even offering to pay shipment to 96701 but have had no takers. I believe that if you were to drill a small hole in the middle of this plug, put in an easy-out, then you can extract this plug. Both varieties have a small 1/16 hole drilled in the side of the tower that hydraulic fluid comes out when you bleed the system. If you were to thread in the plug from your "old" unit, you would now be able to bleed your new "non-bleedable" unit. I have not tested this yet, it's just a theory.

I fully intend to Edit stuff in later on as more photos become available, and I collect the threads of woe regarding the replacement of just a single component of the clutch hydraulic system. Please ask me your questions and I will do my best to answer them.

The bottom line critical message in this thread is DO NOT CUT THE SHIPPING STRAPS HOLDING THE PISTON INTO THE BORE OF YOUR EXTERNAL SLAVE UNIT. Install it properly, they snap the first time you depress the clutch pedal after proper assembly.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 10-07-2010, 06:18 PM   #2
SnowdogMarc
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Good info. However I replaced my slave when I did a motor swap just about a year and a half ago and it had the bleeder screw. I just replaced it again a few weeks ago and the new one also has the bleeder screw. Are you sure that the non bleeder versions are not the old ones?
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Unread 10-07-2010, 06:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowdogMarc View Post
Are you sure that the non bleeder versions are not the old ones?

Yup.

There are numerous Jeepers who have not been able to find the version with the bleeder screw currently. Likely they'll post in before too long, and describe the problems they had with trying to bleed their clutch hydraulic system.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 10-07-2010, 11:24 PM   #4
SnowdogMarc
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Kinda looks like a different manufacturer than the one I got. I'll see if I can get the name off it. Napa has ordered mine both times and had it the next day.
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Unread 10-08-2010, 12:02 AM   #5
Opihi59
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Send us a photograph, and the NAPA part number if you can. It could come in handy to the forum.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 10-08-2010, 07:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
Send us a photograph, and the NAPA part number if you can. It could come in handy to the forum.
Will do. Only problem is that it's a Canadian Napa part number. I've given them US ones for parts before and they can't cross reference them
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Unread 10-14-2010, 11:42 AM   #7
Opihi59
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Thanks to Mean Max who took the time to go to the parts store, take all these photos of the external slave assembly, and send them to me. Things to note of course would be the shipping straps on the external slave unit. This is the little jockstrap thing that is designed to be installed intact, and it snaps when you depress the clutch pedal the first time after everything is bolted up. Note the instructions in bleeding the two versions of the clutch slave unit in photo number 6.
















Thank you Max, for all the help in fleshing out this writeup.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 10-14-2010, 12:06 PM   #8
Opihi59
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More photos of clutch hydraulics by Mean Max. This is the info regarding the One-Piece, Pre-Bled Clutch Master/Hose/Slave unit.














Again, thanks to Mean Max for these photographs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 10-16-2010, 12:33 PM   #9
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Thanks for posting up my pics!

I apologize for not having the time to do it myself sooner!

The thread seems to cover it all, and the Dorman part numbers can easily be cross-referenced by your local parts house, or ordered from RockAuto Auto Parts if you have time to wait.

Max
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Unread 10-16-2010, 10:07 PM   #10
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i just put a new master off ebay on mine, with a new autozone slave (life warr). this slave is also plugged in the bleeder hole. i simply drilled a tiny hole in that plug. then bled it after install. no problems. wheeled it today, works like a champ
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Unread 10-21-2010, 11:00 PM   #11
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God bless this post.
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Unread 10-22-2010, 01:48 AM   #12
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perfect thanks again awesome, I just got the new master cylinder and my slave is now leakin ha ha so just ordered the whole unit replacement, my part guy is gonna give me defect discount on my master cylinder

thanks again jeep forum
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Unread 10-22-2010, 05:09 AM   #13
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Great write Up! Thanks

I have a '93 YJ. Am I correct that I have an internal slave unit and it's in '94 they
went over to the external?
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Unread 10-22-2010, 07:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcar119 View Post
Great write Up! Thanks

I have a '93 YJ. Am I correct that I have an internal slave unit and it's in '94 they
went over to the external?
That is correct!

Max
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Unread 01-24-2011, 07:41 PM   #15
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i know you guys are gettin tired of this question, but i have a 93, it has the internal slave, and i can't find a bleeder screw...is there a bleeder screw??? i saw a relatively large torx bolt while i was under there on the passenger side, is that the bleeder screw?

i also have a leaky slave, is it the same with an internal, replace the master, and slave at the same time or die? just trying to save myself some trouble before i dive in.
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