Attached is a handy chart. I'm about 3" inch of lift. Needed shocks, extended swaybar links, and adjustable track bar. Also required, due to age, was replacement of all bushings. So before lifting, checkout the conditions of the bushings. If they are good and you do lift, make sure to loosen all the control arms and retighten with vehicle weight on the tires. This will prevent the bushings from being loaded at ride height and will help prevent premature destruction.

 

Wow amazing chart!! Thank you so much

To the OP, how many miles are on your WJ? You may want to consider new spring isolators if you're well over 100K. At 2.5", you won't need to do much, but isolators and shocks will greatly improve your ride and handling, especially if your shocks are original also.

I have 125 miles I will check isolator and replace if need but really feel good drive. Thank you!

The chart is spot on. I'd highly recommend replacing all the isolators. My WJ had the front ds with a cv at the transfer case. It is now shot, and I'll be ordering a new one from Kolak. If yours is the same, the 2.5" lift will wear it out at some point.

So your driveshaft (cv version) is already damage after 2.5? how many time after of lift? Thank you

What model year is your WJ and what engine does it have?

How many miles are on the odometer?

Hi my WJ is 12/2002 and have a diesel engine from Mercedes Benz 2.7 CRD (not selled in USA) use 247 transfer case and have Driveshaft CV , 125k miles.

What parts you recomend to go 2.5" lift??

Thank you!

 

great chart, thanks for the info!

 

To the OP, how many miles are on your WJ? You may want to consider new spring isolators if you're well over 100K. At 2.5", you won't need to do much, but isolators and shocks will greatly improve your ride and handling, especially if your shocks are original also.

 

The chart is spot on. I'd highly recommend replacing all the isolators. My WJ had the front ds with a cv at the transfer case. It is now shot, and I'll be ordering a new one from Kolak. If yours is the same, the 2.5" lift will wear it out at some point.

 

What model year is your WJ and what engine does it have?

How many miles are on the odometer?

 

For a 2.5" lift I'd recommend either coil springs or spacers, longer shocks and rear extended swaybar links.

You may also want to replace your rubber spring isolators and steering stabilizer shock, since by 100k miles they are worn.

 

The chart was a fantastic reference, but in my experience, I needed an adjustable track bar to get my axle centered, with only a 2 inch lift. As part of the lift (the WJ had almost 200K on the clock), I replaced ALL suspension components (Ball Joints, Tie Rod Ends, Drag link, shocks, hub bearings, sway bar links, front and rear upper and lower control arms (incl. bushings) and got a fresh alignment. The WJ wallowed down the road and handling, while not terrible, was not where I thought it should be. The front axle was offset to the driver's side by almost an inch. This seemed to impact the geometry to other components, not to mention the slight dog tracking effect. I installed a JKS OGS127 Front Adjustable Track Bar and spent about 2 hours making 1/16" per turn adjustments to bring the axle to exactly centered on the frame. This made all the difference in the world and the WJ handles like it should. Centering the axle threw off the steering wheel, so a drag link adjustment was needed to get that straight. I'm on the schedule to get my alignment rechecked on Wednesday (the shop does a free re-alignment within 90 days of original), so it may get even better.

 

What "2 inch lift" did you get hat needed an adjustable trac bar to recenter your axle?

 

Lift

It was the Daystar KJ09113BK, 64200C product (rubber spacers). It was advertised as a 2" budget boost but actually raised the front 2 1/2" and the rear 2" which leveled it nicely. At the same time as the boost I replaced most of the suspension system, so that may have had an impact on the axle getting off center as well, but don't know how. The old control arms didn't seem bent, and the bushings weren't very bad. The ball joints were conventional, not offsets.

I originally replaced the OE trackbar with a MOOG RK660669 track bar, after completing the rest of the suspension work. The GC was wallowing and thought that may firm it up, since everything else (short of the steering box) had been changed. However, I started getting DW at every bump. I changed back to the OE track bar immediately and the DW went away. That was when I found the axle off center by about an inch. The adjustable track bar re-centered the axle and with the re-alignment yesterday, it rides and handles like it should. Now I'm looking for some 30-31" diameter tires to finish it off.

 

Ey guys!

Today I put 2.5" spacers in my jeep wj but I feel it very hard at suspension (just put today spacers) where more feel is rear axle. What do you think is? short shocks? sway link bars?


thank you guys

 

Ey guys!

Today I put 2.5" spacers in my jeep wj but I feel it very hard at suspension (just put today spacers) where more feel is rear axle. What do you think is? short shocks? sway link bars?

thank you guys

The travel on your stock shocks is probably at its limit. As most will attest to, the Bilsteins are the gold standard, but a decent aftermarket with extended travel would be an improvement over stock.