What Axle do you currently have in the rear? If its on road only you could probably just get away with the D30 up front, just don't expect to lock that front diff and go rock crawling. If you have the Dana 44 in the rear from the factory you should be good with that for the highway use If you have the 35 out back I would get rid of that ASAP. Grab a ford 8.8 and you should be good to go in the rear. With 37s, i would also tell you to re gear as your stock gearing will be miserable.

 

Moved to the TJ section.

Jason.

 

Won't you be going through a lot of ball joints unless you go Dana 60 in the front? Or what is the first part that wears between 35s and 37s?

 

Personally would not run 37s on stock width axles regardless of axle strength. And probably not on OEM wheel base either.

 

You are right.
bigger axles and longer wheelbase are the way to go

for 37s, don't build axles.
bone stock Dana 60s are the way.

If U Can Afford To Build axles right.
build 60s, and buy 4ds!

But my last tj, the p.o. shoved 1/2 ton ford axles under, with 37" swamped ssr's.
65" width, but close to stock wheelbase. It was pretty tall though.
I think the height and width, kinda cancelled each other out.

It looked real good.
Off road and on road performance were not good!
It was flat out dangerous, but looked good.

 

If it's just for looks and only road driving..... You still need to regear, upgrade the brakes, and steering, for safety.

 

:ignore: opCorn:

 

I'll grab a seat too :cheers2::creeper:

 

Where do you live? How will you drive it? When you do wheel what would you be most likely to do and how often?

 

If you only drive on the street, do you feel the need to maintain at least the factory amount of suspension travel?

 

The 35''-37'' tire bare minimum, just for looks question...

Just do it, then you can find out why you should have upgraded other things.

 

JeepTj-
I can tell you from firsthand experience, it doesn't work very well. I have 37's on a 4" lift, stock wheelbase. You will need more than you listed unless you are ok with going nuts with a grinder. I have a 1.25bl and metal cloak fenders. I don't see it being possible to fit the tires without fenders (even if the suspension was unable to move at all).
Other items discovered- adjustable uppers arms, especially in the rear, angles are horrific. Sye, driveshaft, re-gear f/r, new steering/tie rod, adjustable track bar, extended brake lines, I think that was the first bout, the rest of the stuff was needed to fit the new axles.

 

This is 3" front 2" rear and 37s. I agree with the others, do it right... don't do it for "looks". Running 37s isn't cheap, and dangerous as all get out if you're a cheap @##

 

Running 37s isn't cheap, and dangerous as all get out if you're a cheap @##

Is not regearing being a cheap @$$?

 

Sorry for your loss, Boog. I know the feeling.

 

2000 TJ
3.5" metalcloak short arm lift w/ 6pack shocks (no body lift)
MC overlines with 4" flare
37" Mickey Thompson MTZ
Currie HD tie rod/drag link
Dynatrac Pro Rock 60 F/R - Width extended to 63.75" WMS/WMS - Stock WB needs hi pinion axles
ARB F/R, regeared to 4.88
Short shaft kit/np231
AX15 terminator
UCF no body lift skid plate

Drove 3 hours to AOAA, wheeled the black trails for 2 days, reconnected sway bars, drove home. No issues. Sits very low and handles better than stock.

It took a lot of planning and work to make it like this. I wouldn't trust too many stock axle/steering components to reliably handle 37's, even for a daily driver.

 

Why are you disconnecting the sway bars?...

 

Off-road performance

 

Here we go again....:cheers:

 

I run 37s on a stock wheelbase with 3.5 suspension lift and inch body. Prorock 44 up front, 44 rear beefed up, upgraded brakes, custom steering with hydro assist.

I wheel it hard and have a blast doing so.

 

How long have you been on 37's? What have you broken?

 

And remember there are different options for settings on the AR. I run mine on next to the last setting and daily drive it. My Fox 2.0 RRs are valved a little firm though so that's definitely part of the equation.

 

I daily drive mine on the middle setting with OME shocks.

 

Lee, that rig is looking great. How has the Savvy mid arm been doing for you? Also, I replied to your email about the carnage canyon pics when you were out here...no response...?

And it looks like you finally got a new winch?

 

Nice rig @ Holaday ! love the terrain in your pictures.

 

Nice rig bud! love the terrain in your pictures.

Not mine, that rig belongs to the person I was quoting. :smile2:

 

Hey Mike. Made it to CO this year, but no Jeep. Next summer for sure though.

Mid arm has performed even better than I had hoped. I still want to outboard the rear, but everything else has been flawless. And yes, new winch finally. No more melted wires or cooked solenoids. Ill check the email, thanks Mike

 

I almost die every day on my way to work, I live in a constant state of fear

 

I'll poke my head in here and thank Blaine for inventing the dual-rate sway bar. I run one, and it is a thing of beauty. I've said many times that it is one of the best mods I've ever made to the rig. I believe that the cost is what puts many people off, and to the point above perhaps that is the reason it has not taken off.

I add this here because it is relevant to the discussion of the AR on the street. In the soft setting, the dual-rate is about the equivalent of the AR. I can tell you from personal experience that there is a night and day difference when you engage the "street" setting. Therefore, since throwing the lever is all you need to do to essentially compare the AR to a stiffer (and stiffer than stock, I believe) sway bar, it is very easy to gage the difference. To me, riding on the soft setting on the street - the equivalent of the AR - is a bit scary in comparison. I can easily understand why some would be reluctant to run the AR on the street.

 

Look. What's the number 1 reason you see a brand spanking new Antirock for sale on Craigs List?

For sale, brand new Antirock, used only one week, don't like the way it handles on the street, for sale for only 2/3 the price of a new one.

I know you've seen the exact same add I have, because I've seen it at least 10 times in the past 5 years.

 

Look. What's the number 1 reason you see a brand spanking new Antirock for sale on Craigs List?

For sale, brand new Antirock, used only one week, don't like the way it handles on the street, for sale for only 2/3 the price of a new one.

I know you've seen the exact same add I have, because I've seen it at least 10 times in the past 5 years.

In 9 years here, never seen that ad.

 

7 pages into a 37s thread and nobody mentioned Currie steering yet?
You guys are getting soft in your old age.

 

Might as well just stick with the stock steering, the Currie will bend just as easily if hit on a trail obstacle.