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Jeep grand cherokee 2011, problem with rough idle

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1.7K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  PlainoldCheroke  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone, I'm writing to you because I'm exhausted from trying to deal with my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 on my own. Maybe someone can point me towards the cause of the uneven idle and when I'm standing at a traffic light l. Occasionally, it runs smoothly, but that's rare; usually, there are fluctuations in RPM and vibrations in cabin. During driving, there are no problems with power loss or interruptions. Additionally, sometimes in the morning, the brake pedal is hard for a few minutes and responds sharply, and when braking in traffic, towards the end, it brakes as if in small increments, but I think that's an issue with the clutch or something in transmission – I'm not sure. So far, I've replaced the MAP sensor, intake manifold gasket, VVT solenoid, checked and cleaned all the spark plugs, and checked and cleaned all the injectors. I'm attaching OBD screenshots; the RPM fluctuations occur along with a spontaneous throttle movement of about 1% but not everytime, I know the throttle is controlled not just by the gas pedal but also by the ECU.

Additionally, you can see on the graph that the manifold pressure fluctuates. How can I find the cause?

The computer isn't showing any errors

There's also sometimes a sound that lasts around 1-2 seconds, only at idle and when I'm standing at a traffic light, like a quiet humming or soft grinding noise coming from under the hood. I'm not sure, but to me, it sounds like the beginning of the end for one of the pumps or maybe an issue with the transmission. I noticed that one time, even though the car was in the 'P' position, it wasn't disengaged, which you can see in the attached screenshot
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#3 ·
Yeah, a hard brake pedal is a symptom of a vacuum leak. Often around the booster check valve.

The 5.7 is sensitive to spark plugs, it likes fresh OEM parts. Cleaning is rarely effective.

A leaky PCV can cause these kinds of problems.

How many miles are on the engine? Hard/brittle vacuum lines can leak.

The AC compressor normally cycles on and off at idle.
 
#5 ·
I checked the PCV valve and I heard a ball moving inside, I'll try to push some pressure in the opposite direction tomorrow, I will also try to put some silicone around the booster valve.

Car has 106k miles, vacuum lines checked and are fine

as for the ac compressor, i don't think it could have any influence on this because the rpm fluctuations are not regular, they are spontaneous.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I will add that there are more strange things happening in the car, the ambient temperature in which the engine operates is around 158 which seems too high to me, despite this the coolant temperature is correct, the oil temperature sensor constantly shows -80 as if it was blocked, I tried to replace it with a new one but the ODB scanner showed the same value despite the replacement. This car is my nightmare, on hot days everything under the hood is hot that you can barely touch it, you can feel the heat coming out from under the car when you get out. I checked the temperature of the catalytic converters but it is normal. I don't know what is going on. I bought this car recently and it seems to me that the seller modified the ECU software to hide the faults, but to find out I have to upload the factory ECU settings
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#9 ·
The AC compressor may be the source of the noise you mentioned, not the rough idle. The PCM increases throttle a little to compensate for the compressor load.
 
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#10 ·
I've added screenshots of the RPMs. I want to emphasize that I'm not just looking for an explanation for the irregular engine operation; I'm trying to find the cause. Despite replacing 3 engine mounts, which I forgot to mention, the uneven operation is still very noticeable as strong vibrations in the cabin. The engine runs smoothly for a moment and then suddenly, bang! a drop, or bang! an increase. When I look at the passenger seat, I can see it shaking. I read somewhere that dirty oxygen sensors can affect engine vibrations – is that true?
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#11 ·
First you need to replace the spark plugs with fresh OEM NKGs or Champions. What does the oil pressure look like, stable? Do you have ignition timing data? Do you have fuel ratio data?