floor pans are relatively cheap, you can get them off quadratec for $65 plus shipping. i've never paid to have it done, but if you can cut the old out and have decent welding skills, i'm sure you would save a decent amount of money.

 

How much time do you think it would take to do it yourself?

 

If you have the tools, you can do it in an afternoon. Cut it out, grind the edges of the cutout to bare metal and weld in hte new pans/metal. Rust proof, paint and DONE.

 

Classic Ind. has the best repair panels available. Nice and thick and really fit too.

 

take it some where, about $900, do it with ordered parts about $200, find some sheet metal, about $20

 

I cut out the rusted metal then rivited the replacement panels in.

 

I had a guy quote me $1000... that's why I did it myself!!!!! I payed $40 for 2 4x4 sheets of 16 gauge sheet metal, and another $40 for 20 feet of 1x3 steel tubing... I never did body work before.

 

X2 on Classic Industries. I did my drivers side with their replacement floor panel and it was amazing how good it was. Wasn't a fan of Quadratec's pan. I could have bent a nicer one up myself. Seriously though for a ballpark $1000 price quote you could buy a halfway decent Lincoln 140 amp, flux core or get a bottle, buy two floor pans, a angle grinder/cutoff wheel, and do it yourself for less than $700 easily and have the tools for more repairs in the future.

 

This was my YJ before I cut out the cancer and welded in a new floor pan from Q-tec. It cost like 40 bucks and a Saturday to fix.

 

Does anyone have any pics doing this on a CJ5.

 

there are a ton of threads on this. i happen to like the methodology that Fatman used. check out his threads.

 

Mine are riveted in, if you're not a welder this is a nice solution. A rivet gun will run about 25.00 at the hardware store. Granted it's not as secure or nice looking but it does the trick.

 

did you use a sealer? got pics?

 

Mine cost me $500.... I pulled the tub so I could get to the bottom easy, cut out the rust, cut some steel patches and started welded them in......... then found a YJ tub with no rust and bolted it on... Good as new.. LOL


My original tub just had too much rust in all the seams to work in the long run. I could have covered it up and it would have looked good for the next 4 or 5 years, but the rust was gonna come back. I lucked into a clean tub, and wanted the family cage with shoulder belts so it was a no-brainer.

Oh yeah.. 2 or 3 good coats of epoxy primer on bare metal makes me happy!

 

I see people saying Classic Industries for repair panels but they don't have anything for Jeeps listed on their site. Do you guys mean Classic Enterprises? Classic Enterprises is where I was going to buy for some panels I need, most of their stuff is licensed and looks to be of very good quality.

 

Classic Enterprises makes good stuff, but for the floorpan i vote for 16 ga. sheet metal from Lowe's (or any local store). I was able to bend and shape with the help of a workbench and an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Used cardboard to make my template and went to work. Not very hard to do. If you choose to weld them in yourself, practice on some scrap first (if you are not experienced) For a beginner (that's me!) sheet metal is a bit on the tricky side.

Here are the pics I have. Please note the PO's rivet-in repair with Hurk and how well it worked:

 

That turned out really good. I'm probably going the same route for the floor. For the rust I have outside, it's by the front of the tub where it says "Jeep" on both sides so I'll prob buy that panel so I don't lose the "Jeep".

 

another tip to add to the one above, you can get by with overlapping and just spot welding instead of welding the whole thing.

 

Yea you can but it doesn't look as clean and you would want to use seam sealer to keep moisture out so rust doesn't develop again.

 

oh I welded mine complete too, and will weld the next one complete also. I just made that comment for those that cant weld.

 

Not the best pic but here is mine from Classic Enterprises. I had the factory crimps in it for stiffness and they lined up perfectly. I welded mine all the way around and ground the welds. After the Raptor Liner you can barely tell the floor was replaced.

 

Take some notes boys and girls this is the RIGHT way to do it. That way someone else doesent have to fix you bondo or pop rivit job later!:hahaha:

 

That looks really good. Most of my floor is in good condition except for where the roll bar mounts behind the front seats. I'm thinking about using panels from Classic Enterprises but I'm sure I could make my own. I think the stock size is 18g and I'll prob use something a little thicker since it is where the roll bar mounts.

 

South, that looks beautiful!!!!

Fam, I have heard people say that stock is 16g, but since it is pressed it is a little thinner... since I have been cutting my tub up, I believe that since in places that werent all rusted, my body has some nice thick sheet in spots... as thick as the 16g I bought...

 

This is what I have to work with

picture didnt work, sorry

 

could anyone help me with posting pictures?

 

ok, I right clicked on your photo, then copied the "image address" put it between

 

OHHHHHH my

 

ya...someone started to work on it,they tried to make supports on the drivers side that are not close to the body mount, and the trans. tunnel that was put in throws the floor pans off. so I am thinking I am going to have to take that tunnel out and just start from scratch. I am doing this for someone and I wasn't sure where to start price wise. I think the back section is going to get replaced as well, one of the POs took the gas tank out and just cut a big hole in the floor along with some rusting that has taken place. I have some more pictures on my facebook page if you guys want to check them out as well as pics from some other jobs. I still need to put all of my pics on there

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