What did you buy for "new turn signal lights"? Just new bulbs? Incandescent (1157/1157A) replacements, or LED? A lot of possibilities, so more info is needed.

The front TS housings ground via the shouldered screws that attach them to the grill. Use the wrong screws, or a bit of corrosion/bad contact, and you have no/spotty ground. Even if you didn't change bulb types, just removing and reinstalling those screws may have upset an already spotty ground.



Various ways to do it, but you can attach a dedicated ground wire to the housing, and connect it back to a good ground. I just drilled a hole in mine, and bolted a ground to the housings. The rear housings ground via the bolts that attach them to the tub. Loose hardware/corrosion there, and you have issues. I had a loose connection on the spade terminal that attaches to the ground plate in one of my rears. Had to pinch the terminal a bit to get a good contact there. I have a dedicated ground ran to the rear though, and into each housing, with a ring terminal under one of the mounting bolts in each housing.

 

Just replaced the whole unit from a complete set from amazon. Before I attempted to switch I had just parking lights, now nothing and right marking light is dim. Heater fan never worked, wipers worked a few times but just one pass, 1 headlight was dim now isn't.

 

For the "complete set from amazon" (got a link?) are we talking Front TS housing or Rear tail light housing? I just rebuilt my rusty fronts, and replaced one rear..... and spent more time than I cared to, digging through my electrical system. For the fronts, it seems a lot of guys have found the contacts in the socket of new lights is reversed, so instead of the Turn element in the bulb, the TS and 4way flasher is lighting the element that would be for your running lights. That might explain the "dim", but not the "not working" part.

Do your emergency flashers work? Sounds like you had issues before, and they've just changed or gotten worse. Probably more than one issue. As JEEPFELLER suggested, you're gonna need to do some testing.

I just went through some of this. Maybe give my thread a quick read and see if anything seems helpful. John's post #15 will show you where to apply power at the jack for the TS switch, to see if each corner lights as it should. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/marker-running-lights-always-4444241/

 

Suspect a ground issue anywhere on your Jeep/ or trailer---Items that do not draw mega amps?

The best place to find the best ground possible would be the Negative side of your battery.

This is gonna eliminate any possible "breaks" in grounding between the "suspect appliance" and Mr. Battery.

Remember, we are only testing to see if it needs "Ground", it's possible that it is not receiving "Positive" (and ground may be just fine).

Other stuff to look for when you are puzzled or your initial test is not working are, "am I creating a good ground connection on both ends?",

"Do I have all of the switch(es) turned on to run the appliance?", "maybe the body of a particular fixture has a

dedicated (built in) ground wire and the appliance body itself is not it's ground", "Maybe the appliance is defective?".

So in the 1st pics

2) connecting to the battery with a long jumper wire (I think this is 16 gauge wire) My alligator clips on most of my jumpers are larger.

3) Jumping to the blower motor body (I've never seen a ground problem on one)----For this pic, I did not scrape a little paint off tp expose raw,

clean steel for a good connection.

4) Instead of several pics here, Testing lights---you might clip to the metal that is holding the bulb holder----or even better,

touch the holder itself, this would eliminate a bad connection issue where the holder and it's anchor point connect.

In this pic, the clip is just shoved onto both surfaces at the same time.

Other than "Just Testing" grounding (rather not grounding) possibilities.

You can swap over to the + Positive side of the battery with one end NOW the other end is portable 12 VOLTS !

You can now introduce power to things that previously might use multiple switches or connections to turn them on.

Somewhere along the way something may be breaking the flow of power to the appliance (that should be "ON"--BUT AIN'T!)

You can now bypass all of that to see if the appliance DOES WORK.

Jumpers work great for testing and can also be your friend, you can "jump" your Positive Coil wire to the Positive side of the battery,

This might prove or disprove a break somewhere between the coil and ignition switch---It won't fix your point's or module!----

----But if it were a problem with "ON" or your ignition switch or a bad ballast resistor (etc.) This "Jumper Wire" get you home.

With older vehicles without lock steering and other measures, this could aid you in driving any vehicle in years gone by.

Pic 1) I have used 2 long jumpers, a ground and 12 Volts when testing trailer lights.

If you deem that something might get shorted wile testing--12 VOLTS, won't hurt nothing if used on the ground either.

Fuse selection is up to you---I try to find out what size is used for that appliance in the fuse box.

Sometimes ignorance with electricity can cause this! Learn all you can! (Random video that I found)

-----JEEPFELLER

 

So I think I reversed the wires and got the lights to work but now marker lights dont work in the front. Wires came out of terminal connector but I think I need to replace them somehow with the right female connectors if i can find them. Its not pretty how i have them connected but its working for now.