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fuel pressure regulator

38K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  Jonny Jeep  
#1 ·
so i was diagnosing a no start, getting ready for a two hour trip, it had a very poor idle for a day or two.. i went down to the parts store because i was assuming the generic fuel pump was going, havent had good luck with them so far and i had this one for almost six months. dropped tank and replaced pump right as the store closed. then a no start... so i started flipping relays and checking all lines. i pulled off the fuel pressure vacuum line and had gas spray out. i then realized the no start was because fuel was dumping into my intake. so my questions are could it just be clogged and needs to be cleaned, or is a new one needed and where to buy it. i have found one at Original Replacement Parts 53030001 - Fuel Regulator for 91-96 Jeep® 2.5L 4 Cylinder & 4.0L 6 Cylinder Engines - Quadratec.. i know it only list it for yj, but it looks very similiar. are pressures different from yj to tj 2.5 or is fuel rail different? i found this one also Parts Bin - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - Fuel Pressure Regulator
they both look identical.. but i dont want to just hope. i was hoping someone may have a better understanding if and of the differences
 
#2 ·
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What is the pressure after the pump primes? Does it hold pressure reasonably?

A fuel pressure regulator should not dump fuel into an intake. It should limit pressure so that the carb/tb/injectors can regulate fuel flow. If the pressure after the regulator is too high, the regulator is bad. If the pressure is low after the regulator and high before, replace the regulator. If the pressure is low before the regulator, the pump or fuel line is bad.
 
#4 ·
the ebay link is a fuel filter, not a regulator. and i know its not supposed to push fuel out of the vaccuum line. i know the function of the part but i also understand that anything that moves with vacuum normally has a rubber diapraghm, and that it does seem like it could have a pinhole in the diaprahgm causing fuel to bypass out the vaccuum line
 
#5 · (Edited)
The TJ filter is a combined fuel filter/pressure regulator. I have changed mine in the past as the regulator had developed a problem and I was loosing fuel pressure causing a long crank before start. There is no vacuum line with this system just the fuel line and the vapour line. The thing you pulled the line from is to control pulses of pressure from the fuel line it is not a pressure regulator. The FSM states that the fuel rail on a 2.5 may or may not have this fitted. Didn't know any TJs had them till doing some reading in the FSM. Whether it is the same as the part that is on the YJ I do not know.

EDIT: Checked the parts list and although not pictured the part number listed on the fuel rail is 53030001 and is the part you had originally linked to. I only jumped on that as you'd stated pressure regulator, and have done some more reading since your reply...

This is from the factory service manual regards pressure regulation...

FUEL FILTER/FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR

A combination fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator is used on all engines. It is located on the top of fuel pump module. A separate frame mounted fuel filter is not used with any engine. Fuel Pressure Regulator Operation: The pressure regulator is a mechanical device that is not controlled by engine vacuum or the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

The regulator is calibrated to maintain fuel system operating pressure of approximately 339 ± 34 kPa (49.2 ± 5 psi) at the fuel injectors. It contains a diaphragm, calibrated springs and a fuel return valve.
The internal fuel filter is also part of the assembly.

Fuel is supplied to the filter/regulator by the electric fuel pump through an opening tube at the bottom of filter/regulator.The regulator acts as a check valve to maintain some fuel pressure when the engine is not operating. This will help to start the engine. A second check valve is located at the outlet end of the electric fuel pump.

If fuel pressure at the pressure regulator exceeds approximately 49 psi, an internal diaphragm closes and excess fuel pressure is routed back into the tank through the pressure regulator. A separate fuel return line is not used with any engine.

Image


FSM says this regards the damper as it is called in the FSM...

FUEL RAIL/FUEL DAMPER-2.5L ENGINE

The fuel rail supplies the necessary fuel to each individual fuel injector and is mounted to the intake manifold. On the 2.5L engine, a fuel damper is located at the front of the fuel rail. The damper is used only to help control fuel pressure pulses from the fuel pump. It is not used as a fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is not mounted to the fuel rail on any engine. It is located on the fuel tank mounted fuel pump module.

Two different types of dampers are used. The first type is equipped with a vacuum fitting. A vent line connects this vacuum fitting to the intake manifold. This vent line has no control over fuel system pressure. The second type of damper will not have a vacuum fitting or vent line.

Depending on vehicle model/engine, the fuel rail may/may not be equipped with a fuel pressure test port. The fuel rail is not repairable.
 
#6 ·
thank you for the helpful information... i do have a better understanding now of what you were stating before. i do apologize for calling it that but all my links have stated it as that part.i havent found any site stating anything about a fuel damper...in your searches have you found any site that have this up for sale?
 
#8 ·
i have ordered it now from jeep who lists it as a fuel pressure regulator and tells me that the tank assembly is only a fuel filter. they do not list it as regulating pressure at all. but i did find out jeep, for the first time, actually sells this part cheaper than any autoparts store.
 
#10 ·
My 97 died (stalled) on the way to the service station... and wouldnt turn over at all afterwards. Wouldnt even try to turn over... Had it towed to the dealer and they tell me it is the fuel pump. Its a 700 dollar job, but how do I know this might not be something else? Pressure regulator, etc?

Symptoms: Ignition just clicks away... engine doesnt turn over; ran fine up until my 2 mile drive to the dealer, and then stalled out.
 
#11 ·
If the starter won't turn the engine over, your problem is not the fuel pump. If you actually meant the engine won't start, which is different from "turning over", you can buy a new complete fuel pump assembly (also includes a fuel gauge sender and pressure regulator) for under $200 from www.rockauto.com and install it in an hour. I paid around $120 for mine from them a couple months ago. You have to drop the fuel tank but that's not a hard job, especially for your '97.

And a big welcome to JF! :)
 
#14 ·
I almost forgot that it is just clicking when you try to start it which is not fuel pump related. Odds are that you either have a loose/dirty/corroded battery connection which simply needs to be cleaned and tightened, or your battery is too dead to start the engine. If it's the latter, charge it over night. If it won't charge or hold a charge, have it load tested at a battery dealer to see if it needs to be replaced.
 
#18 ·
It turns the starter... plenty of juice in the battery. The shop tells me they did a reading on the pump and it was registering about 10psi where it should be around 45? He mentioned the test hits the pump before the pressure regulator, etc, so it was a pretty accurate diagnosis. I guess Ill go with that for now... glad Im on this forum now, some good info here, and Ill plan on doing the rest of the work myself! Thanks guys...
 
#19 ·
Fuel Pressure Regulator or Check valve in the fule pump

I have been reading these posts and thought I was clear but now I am not sure. I am having the issue where fuel is draining back to the tank creating long starts. If I need to change the check valve then I will do the pump and all. If I only need to change the Fuel Pressure Regulator then I will leave the pump. So which one prevents the fuel from going back to the tank? If the answer is both then I guess I will have to change everything. I do not want to take the tank down twice. Thanks in advance.

2003 Grand Cherokee Larado.
 
#20 ·
Hi jgerlach, welcome to the forum.

Looking at the pictures on http://www.rockauto.com your fuel pump assembly is different to those that are being discussed in this thread. You should have an in-line fuel filter/regulator. This is from the 2003 Grand Cherokee FSM...

FUEL FILTER/PRESSURE REGULATOR

DESCRIPTION

The combination fuel filter/pressure regulator is located in front of the fuel tank and above the rear axle (Fig. 3). It is transversely mounted to a chassis crossmember (left-to-right). Fuel Line Identification:
The filter/regulator is equipped with 3 fuel line fittings (2 at one end and 1 at the other end). The single fitting facing the left side of the vehicle is the supply line to the fuel rail (Fig. 3). The 2 fittings facing the right side of the vehicle are connected to the fuel tank. Of these 2 fittings, the fitting towards the front is used for fuel return to the fuel tank. The fitting towards the rear is a pressure line.

The regulator should maintain fuel in the line to the engine and the check valve in the pump should maintain fuel between the tank and the regulator. You should be able to get the in-line filter fairly cheaply (compared to a pump at least), and as you wouldn't need to drop the tank, I'd replace the filter. Hopefully it will cure your long crank issue.
 
#23 ·
Jerry beat me to it but I didn't actually know the connector type anyway, so was just going to direct you to the online factory service manuals at http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm#service

If you select Grand Cherokee WJ, 99-04, Fuel Injection and Delivery and go to page 22 you will find the start of the Quick Connect Fitting section which shows all the fitting types in the fuel system.