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Advance Auto carries this part, which means I could fix this today instead of waiting until the stealership opens tomorrow. Any precautions about bying aftermarket o rings?

 

I don't understand how the o-rings could be torn already. Your Jeep isn't old, have the fuel injectors been removed/replaced already? However, once the fuel rail has been removed, the fuel injectors basically just pull out. The o-ring is what holds it in place, the fuel injector kind of "snaps" into place when the o-ring seats. The bad o-ring is just pulled off & the new o-ring just pulls into place into its seating groove. Just be gentle with the new o-ring, don't stretch it any more than you have to to get it seated, and it'll pull into its o-ring seating area fine.

I wouldn't worry about using the aftermarket o-rings, they should be fine.

 

I don't understand how the o-rings could be torn already. Your Jeep isn't old, have the fuel injectors been removed/replaced already? However, once the fuel rail has been removed, the fuel injectors basically just pull out. The o-ring is what holds it in place, the fuel injector kind of "snaps" into place when the o-ring seats. The bad o-ring is just pulled off & the new o-ring just pulls into place into its seating groove. Just be gentle with the new o-ring, don't stretch it any more than you have to to get it seated, and it'll pull into its o-ring seating area fine.

I wouldn't worry about using the aftermarket o-rings, they should be fine.

The previous owner may have pulled the fuel rail off at some point. I was surprised also.

Do I need to pull the fuel injectors off the rail, then slide the o-ring on the injector side that seats into the rail OR leave the injector on the rail and install the o ring on the side of the injector that goes into the manifold working it back into its orignal position? Thanks for chiming in Jerry!

 

For me, it was much easier to pull the fuel rail off the injectors first, then only pull the individual injectors out of the intake manifold that need their o-ring replaced. I'm by no means an expert on this, I only did this on my TJ years ago to troubleshoot a misfire problem.

Edit: I forgot to mention the FSM recommends lubricating each o-ring a little with fresh engine oil before installing the fuel injectors.

Edit 2: I just checked my FSM & it says to just use the fuel rail to pull all the injectors out of the intake manifold all at once. Then if needed, you can unclip the fuel injectors from the rail as needed. That's not how I did mine but the FSM is likely giving the more correct procedure.

 

For me, it was much easier to pull the fuel rail off the injectors first, then only pull the individual injectors out of the head that need their o-ring replaced. I'm by no means an expert on this, I only did this on my TJ years ago to troubleshoot a misfire problem.

Edit: I forgot to mention the FSM recommends lubricating each new o-ring a little with fresh engine oil before installing them.

Sounds good, thanks again!

 

Note the added/changed edits.

 

Good stuff, thanks!

 

Am I supposed to relieve the pressure here? If so, how? Might be too late for that though since I have the rail pulled from the manifold already .

 

I've replaced a bunch of injector o-rings on various Chrysler vehicles, pull the rail with all the injectors at once... it is much easier and you're much less likely to tear an o-ring in the rail.

Smear some wheel bearing grease on the o-rings prior to reinstalling the rail w/ all fuel injectors on it, just don't glob it on because you don't want to plug the fuel injector pintles.

As for relieving pressure, there should be a shrader valve on the rail somewhere IIRC, remove the cap and press the valve to relieve pressure. Watch you don't get it in your eyes, it burns.

Another way to relieve pressure without the shrader valve is to pull the fuel pump relay and then try to start your Jeep. It may run for a second or two, but this will basically deplete the pressure from the rail.

 

While I have the rail out of the manifold, should I clean the injectors (the tips that go into the manifold)? If so, would throttle body cleaner be ok to use? TIA!

 

I would not try to clean the injectors using TB cleaner. Also, don't relieve the fuel pressure by turning the key to the start position with the fuel pump relay removed after removing the injectors. Doing so will cause fuel to spray out and a spark could cause a big fire.

 

Psst... if the injectors(from the rail) are removed then you've already relieved the fuel pressure

To clarify, I meant PRIOR to removing anything fuel injector/rail related:laugh:

 

Got everything easily installed back and runs great with no codes (so far ) Thanks much!

 

Got everything easily installed back and runs great with no codes (so far ) Thanks much!

I'll be doing the same thing by next weekend, I have to replace an injector I believe is leaking and causing my very long engine starts.

 

I'm sending 2 of them your way tomorrow Jerry. :cheers2: You should get them before the weekend.


domano 68 - are you sure the o-rings that are missing are not stuck inside the fuel rail still?

 

I'm sending 2 of them your way tomorrow Jerry. :cheers2: You should get them before the weekend.

domano 68 - are you sure the o-rings that are missing are not stuck inside the fuel rail still?

I found some chunks on the outer edges of the manifold openings but thats it. If any fell into the manifold, then I did not find it. Lets hope I got all the chuncks. I did not remove the injector from the fuel rail side so those o rings should be fine still.

As far as relieving pressure, I did not do anything to relieve the pressure and everything is running fine now. Not sure if there will be any latent problems that I caused because I did not relieve the pressure. Like above, lets hope everything will be ok here.

 

Sorry for hijacking the thread but I have one question (that could fit in this topic). I had the "heat soak" probelm (misfire in #3 cilynder etc), with my 4.0 2000TJ. I got the TSB, that says that you need to insulate the injector, etc.
I followed the procedure, but there is something written there: "4. Check injector #3 wire and ensure that the injector is rotated to a 2 o'clock position."
OK, I've done that, but what about the other injectors? All the other injectors are oriented at 12 o'clock. Should I slightly turn them? Why is that?

 

Sorry for hijacking the thread but I have one question (that could fit in this topic). I had the "heat soak" probelm (misfire in #3 cilynder etc), with my 4.0 2000TJ. I got the TSB, that says that you need to insulate the injector, etc.
I followed the procedure, but there is something written there: "4. Check injector #3 wire and ensure that the injector is rotated to a 2 o'clock position."
OK, I've done that, but what about the other injectors? All the other injectors are oriented at 12 o'clock. Should I slightly turn them? Why is that?

I currently have the same question. Maybe someone with a FSM can chime in.
What position do each of the injectors need to be? 2 o'clock like # 3 or 12-noon like all mine are!
:cheers2:

 

Why anyone would say the injectors need to be clocked to any particular position other than to make the connector convenient for the wiring harness connector to plug into is beyond me. Look at the bottom of an injector you'll see that they are simply a symmetrical device without anything there that could be pointed or aimed a certain way. It's like a shower head, the fuel injector sprays in a symmetrical 360 degree pattern.

 

Jerry,

Logically speaking, you are right. I was thinking the same, until I saw the notice with the 2 o'clock, mentioned in the TSB (see my earlier post):rtft:. And I assumed that there should be a reason for that. Or, maybe, not...?

 

It only needs to be "clocked" if there is some external reason... such as so the electrical connector will fit or a heat shield that requires the electrical connector be in a certain position.

 

My long starting problem is caused by the anti-drainback valve on top of the fuel pump failing, causing pressure to drain back into the tank (slowly). The ECM only runs the pump for one second when key is turned to 'run' position, regardless of residual fuel pressure. Mine failed because I relieved the pressure at the fuel test rail when I was replacing the exhaust manifold. I checked for leaky injectors by removing the rail and putting the key into 'run' a few times and then leaving it for an hour with paper underneath so I could see if there was an injector leak. Note to others: do not start the car with the fuel rail out of the manifold and the injectors powered. This can cause a fire.

Hope this helps.

Also, the BWD part number for the rail pack of injector rings is 274573. You will need 12 total, 6 for the manifold side, 6 for the fuel rail side. If you are removing the fuel rail from the line, you will need the fuel line tool (Fuel Line Disconnect Tool by Autocraft - Part AC523/W83113 - Advance Auto Parts)

Don't forget to relieve pressure on the fuel line using the Schrader valve before pulling the rail off.