Sorry for the extra s'. made the post on my phone and didn't proof read it before posting. It's only one cracked injector

 

if it was mine, i'd swap it out. i recently found 2 bad injectors, so i replaced all 6. i didn't want to go back into the fuel rail again, when the next one failed.

 

You don't mention mileage, year, age, etc. Regardless, a cracked injector is a problem just waiting to happen. Replace it and motor on.

 

Didn't think the other info too important, sorry. So the injectors are original to my '04 4.7 H.O. probably around 250,000 miles on them now. They were installed to my "new" 02 Overland, only maybe 3,000 miles on a rebuilt short block. I still have all the injectors from the 02's original engine it was at around 292,000 miles and has seen way better days, blown head gasket, a clogged catalytic converter, and numerous oil leaks all over.

More back ground: Had an '04 overland replaced and rebuilt the whole power train, then some dipsh*t kid who didn't know about right of way, hit me and totaled it, took my new powertrain out of the '04 and put it in '02 overland.

Was kinda leaning towards trying to clean out one of the ones from the '02 or should I just buy a new one or all new ones?

 

Didn't think the other info too important, sorry. So the injectors are original to my '04 4.7 H.O. probably around 250,000 miles on them now. They were installed to my "new" 02 Overland, only maybe 3,000 miles on a rebuilt short block.
....snip....

Was kinda leaning towards trying to clean out one of the ones from the '02 or should I just buy a new one or all new ones?

if over 200K miles, I'd replace them all if you plan to keep it a while.

 

Definitely replace the cracked one for sure, if they arent that old, I would just replace the cracked one. But i would recommend using a new one.



Also, might wanna check the gas tank and filter for crud in them, those injectors shouldn't be plugged up already....

 

I ended didn't realize how cheap fuel injectors were. Ended up getting a new one to replace the cracked one, and got new o-rings for the rest.

When I did the engine swap into the '02 I put a new fuel filter/regulator on. Is there anything I can do to check the tank, other than dropping it and looking in it. I planned on putting in some fuel system treatment in the tank after I got it back together again and ready for start up.

 

Gotta siphon some of the gas out and take a look, you could pull the fuel line off at the fuel rail and jump across the fuel pump relay connector to engage the pump. Run some fuel into a clear water bottle or something you can see through. If it comes out like coffee or tea, you gotta clean that tank....

 

Cool, I will give the fuel a look. Would it sitting for a while make any difference in looking at the fuel. It hasn't moved for a few days now, wouldn't any potential crud settle to the bottom?

So not sure the injector I picked up is correct. I see that the new one doesn't have a filter basket, figured it would have come with one. Even without that it looks a little different than the original. Will make a trip back to Napa and double check I have the correct part #.

Would it be worth replacing all the injectors filter baskets?

 

The size of the injector orifice does look a little bigger, but it might just be the naked eye thingy.....If you have this much trouble with clogged injectors, I would check all the injector baskets to be sure.

 

bosch 04854181 is the part you want. i personally wouldn't run a "no-name" aftermarket injector. you pay a little more for a bosch, but it's a better built unit. the hole on that new one looks considerable larger in the pic. it's hard to tell, but it looks like only one has the o-ring on it? how many holes does the new one have, if you know?

 

Golden-Arm. You are correct only one had a o-rings on it here's a pic with o-rings on both. They both have 4 holes, looks to be the same pattern. I did also notice a difference in the should diameter below the lower o-ring and the length of the piece after the lower o-ring is shorter than the OEM one. I went back to Napa and they said it's the correct part #.

 

i'm not sure what's different, but the o-ring in the new one seems to fit loosely, leaving z gap between the injector seat and the o-ring collar? maybe the old o-ring is crushed, making it wider, sectionaly? the orifice disc looks slightly larger in diameter, but that could be a cosmetic thing? if the book says it fits, and you are happy with the fit, seems like you got it solved. a pic of the fuel rail ends placed together, for comparison would be nice to see as well. what brand is this, if you know?

 

Outside diameter of the o rings side by side looks the same. Do the filter baskets fit in the new injectors? If they do, then I think you will be fine, like Golden Arm says. Its possible that this is just an upgraded version of an aftermarket replacement?

 

Should get the filter baskets on Monday. It seems to fit in the fuel rail, just test fit it a little. It's Napa branded but looks like Echlin actually makes it. If the filter baskets fit, I'm gonna run it.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll give an update when I get it running.

 

Should get the filter baskets on Monday. It seems to fit in the fuel rail, just test fit it a little. It's Napa branded but looks like Echlin actually makes it. If the filter baskets fit, I'm gonna run it.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll give an update when I get it running.

Good luck

 

So the filter baskets I ordered were for the OEM injectors, but not for the aftermarket one I bought. I was able to track one down, it didn't sit flush but had a flat shoulder that sat it in place. Was a little suspect of it at first but no gas leaks or anything. Sorry forgot to take pics, just wanted to get it together again.

I did check out the gas and it looked clear and fine. I just put a graduated cylinder up to the fuel line and turned the key on to get fuel out.

I went from 3 codes to only having one code, p0155, after getting it started and warmed up (not completely warmed up tho). I checked my bank2 upstream o2 sensor and it has resistance on the heater circuit. I went ahead and measured resistance on both upstream sensors and they were at 13ohms each so I'm guessing they are both good. The o2 sensor fuse is not blown. Going to start checking for shorts next. Getting really tired of this CEL being on.

 

Well...at least your making progress...but they can be daunting sometimes. Hang in there, it will be worth it. Double check your grounds?

 

Well thought about it some more, since I'm not popping a fuse I don't think I have a short.

I did check all the grounds and visually they all look good. I don't see any corrosion and they are all tight.

What do I need to do to see if it is the PCM? Or am I missing something, could I still have a short on the o2 sensor heater circuit? I also had a p1499 pop up since my last post, that one seems to come and go.
Would the block paint make much of a difference? I didn't or don't remember sanding the block grounds before installing them on this new block.

 

Paint can be a problem, you want clean bare metal under those ground wire tabs....

 

So finally got around to getting under and cleaning off the block paint for grounds 102, 103, 104, & 105. There was some paint under the ground tabs, there was also some crud and stuff on the tabs. Cleared codes and started it up, let it warm up all the way this time. Kind of idled funny for a little but here and there but nothing crazy. CEL came back on, checked codes and now I have: P01499, P0158,& P0138. Don't know what to think now. I thought I had the P1499 taken care of when I repaired a short a while back, and don't know why I went from a o2 sensor heater circuit issue to o2 sensor high voltage situation.

 

Another Update. I thought I would try and swap the PCM from my totaled '04 into my '02. It would start but it would not stay running, maybe only ran for 5 seconds at a time.

So I cleaned up the back, mainly the ground contact, of the OE PCM and tried again. This time after letting it warm up I am getting 7 total codes: P1499(is the only one that is an actual fault the rest are pending), P0141, P0171, P0155, P0161, P0138, P0158.

Is this a sign that my PCM needs to be re-flashed or whatever? Out of ideas now. Pics of the OE PCM as I took it off before cleaning.

Thanks

 

The tank is kind of a pita. I just pulled mine last weekend. My strainers were both destroyed to the point of not allowing fuel into the fuel pump. Had about 10 gal in to pump out. After dropping the tank and getting a look, you maybe able to snake a 3/8 or 1/4 diameter hose past the drainback valve to siphon it out.

 

Also, you can get a decent gauge of the injectors by rigging a carb cleaner can to them and then observing the spray pattern. I did this a few weeks ago, cobbled together a few pieces of hose, drilled a hole in one, siliconed and zip tied the plastic straw to it and then jumped the injector with a battery. https://www.instagram.com/p/CLgQYkVl6TV/?igshid=1fm85jak99uei

 

Also, you can get a decent gauge of the injectors by rigging a carb cleaner can to them and then observing the spray pattern. I did this a few weeks ago, cobbled together a few pieces of hose, drilled a hole in one, siliconed and zip tied the plastic straw to it and then jumped the injector with a battery.

I cleaned them all up already rigging them up to a can of carb cleaner.

Im no PCM guru, but i would clear the codes now that you have the original PCM back in the Jeep. Then see what, if any, come back.

Also, you cant use a PCM out of a different Jeep, because the SKIM module and the PCM have to talk to each other, and a Strange PCM will not be programmed to talk to your SKIM...Thats why the Jeep would start, then die. Its part of the anitheft features Jeep so graciously blessed us with...

Just tried clearing the codes and trying again. Now its just a P1499, which is progress, but I still have that CEL on! So on to reading and researching 1499, I did a little looking into it a while ago, but stopped since I had the other codes too.
Also kinda figured something like that was going on with the PCM when it wouldn't stay running. Thought it was worth a try since I had the other one just laying around.

 

Im no PCM guru, but i would clear the codes now that you have the original PCM back in the Jeep. Then see what, if any, come back.


Also, you cant use a PCM out of a different Jeep, because the SKIM module and the PCM have to talk to each other, and a Strange PCM will not be programmed to talk to your SKIM...Thats why the Jeep would start, then die. Its part of the anitheft features Jeep so graciously blessed us with...