Flat towing requirements are transfer case specific. All can be towed up to 200 miles if prepared correctly.
as per the 1984 Jeep CJ7/Scrambler owner's manual (a D300 transfer case):

FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION

1. turn ignition switch to OFF position to unlock steering wheel

2. shift transmission into gear and transfer case into neutral.

3. turn selective drive hubs to 4x4 position, for axle lubrication

note: when towing a vehicle over 200 miles, stop every 200 miles. With the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear, start the engine and rev engine for about one minute to circulate oil in the transfer case.

FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

1. turn ignition to off to unlock the steering wheel

2. shift auto tranny into PARK

3. shift tcase into neutral

4. turn hubs to 4x4

When towing over 200 miles stop every 200 miles. With the tcase in neutral, start the engine shift tranny into DRIVE and then rev motor for about 1 minute to circulate oil in the transfer case.

 

Theres a ton of info about this on previous threads, but I guess it never hurts to rehash it.

You can flat tow any '80s CJ with no problems, assuming you have an adequate towing vehicle. I've pulled mine behind my RV for thousands of miles.

The only real concern is the D300 t-case output bearing doesn't get lubricated, and can potentially burn up, with the t-case in neutral. There are 2 ways you can address this: 1) Disconnect the rear driveshaft at the rear differential. This will prevent the t-case output shaft from turning, so lubrication isn't necessary, or 2) Stop every 200 towed miles and run the engine for a few seconds with the t-case in neutral and the transmission in gear. This will lubricate the output bearing and prevent it from burning,

I prefer method #2. The only time I disconnected the driveshaft turned into a real problem when I tried reconnecting the shaft at my destination. While rolling around in the mud at hunting camp, I sheared off one of the U-joint bolts without the necessary tools to remove it from the yoke. We had to use front-wheel drive only for the entire hunt, which limited the places we could travel. I will never disconnect my driveshaft for towing again.

Matt

 

Doug,

Can you, or anyone, explain the reason for putting the hubs in 4x4 position? I've always towed my CJ with the hubs unlocked.

How would towing with unlocked hubs be any different than driving with unlocked hubs?

And why would you want the extra wear on the front axle, and the mechanical drag of towing with the hubs locked?

Matt

 

Where are you towing from? I've driven my '7 to the OBX several times (about 3 hr drive) but with a baby, that no longer feasible. Last year, I did without and just drove my truck. This year, I plan to flat tow. I've got a D20, so a little different animal, but I plan to pull the rear driveshaft for peace of mind. It only takes a couple minutes to disconnect/reconnect it.

Doug,

Can you, or anyone, explain the reason for putting the hubs in 4x4 position? I've always towed my CJ with the hubs unlocked.

How would towing with unlocked hubs be any different than driving with unlocked hubs?

And why would you want the extra wear on the front axle, and the mechanical drag of towing with the hubs locked?

Matt

My understanding is that locking the hubs helps splash lube the tcase. IIRC, it should spin the front sliding gear which will help move oil around.

 

My understanding is that locking the hubs helps splash lube the tcase. IIRC, it should spin the front sliding gear which will help move oil around.

I've always understood that running the engine every 200 miles, as described above, lubricates the t-case. No need to lock the hubs.

My 1981 Owners Manual says you only need to the lock the hubs on FSJ models for "axle lubrication", not CJ models. Why would the axle need lubrication while towing, but not while driving in 2WD with hubs unlocked?

It doesn't make any sense to me.

Matt

 

What Matt said! We recently had this discussion in another thread. If you are towing with the TC in N then the front driveshaft isn't going to do any more splashing than the rear driveshaft free wheeling. In N it ain't gonna turn.

I've put more miles on our CJ5 towing it than I have driving it. Somewhere around three hours of driving I'm going to stop to absolutely stretch my legs and pee, maybe refuel, and usually eat. That's when I start and let the Jeep run in gear for a couple of minutes.

 

JP,

What will you be towing with?

Matt

 

2012 F150 Ecoboost. It does very well towing on the trailer with 5K axles and brakes on 1 axle. I won't have any brakes flat towing, but won't have the 2+K lb trailer either. Over 90% of my flat tow (probably closer to 95% or higher) will at 60 mph or less and the CJ drives well at 75 mph, so I don't expect any issues. And I won't be beating on it like I would on a wheeling trip, so little chance of tearing up something that will prevent the flat tow back home.

 

Flat Towing

Helpful chart for all T cases.

 

I guess this answers every question.

Thanks!

 

I've read / heard mixed reviews on Flat Towing CJ's and wanted to get the Forum's advice / take on this. I saw a chart where it indicated that Flat Towing a 1984 CJ7 was a bad idea. I want to be able to get this Jeep to the OBX / Beach more often.

Where are you towing from? I've driven my '7 to the OBX several times (about 3 hr drive) but with a baby, that no longer feasible. Last year, I did without and just drove my truck. This year, I plan to flat tow. I've got a D20, so a little different animal, but I plan to pull the rear driveshaft for peace of mind. It only takes a couple minutes to disconnect/reconnect it.

Doug,

Can you, or anyone, explain the reason for putting the hubs in 4x4 position? I've always towed my CJ with the hubs unlocked.

How would towing with unlocked hubs be any different than driving with unlocked hubs?

And why would you want the extra wear on the front axle, and the mechanical drag of towing with the hubs locked?

Matt

My understanding is that locking the hubs helps splash lube the tcase. IIRC, it should spin the front sliding gear which will help move oil around.

I'll be flat towing from rva to obx, so seems like this is doable from all the responses, thank you, I greatly appreciate your time.

Out of curiosity, how does the steering stay straight behind?

 

Also, any recommendations on the actual flat towing gear?

 

You mean like tow bars and stuff?
Who makes a good one these days?

And brake systems? I've seen some that push the brake pedal in electronically.

I'd like to know what others have used also.

 

You need to put the key in the "Off" position, so the steering wheel unlocks and free wheels. That allows the front tires to track with the tow vehicle.

Don't even attempt to back up with the CJ hitched up. It's nothing like backing a trailer up. You'll get about 4 feet and the CJ will be jack-knifed and all bound up. So keep that in mind when maneuvering around tight places, like gas stations.

As for what gear, I assume you are talking about the tow vehicle? If so, your normal high gear (or Drive if automatic) should suffice on flat highways. You may need to gear down on inclines, both up and down. If your truck has a tow setting, use it. Avoid riding the brakes as much as possible.

Matt

 

You need to put the key in the "Off" position, so the steering wheel unlocks and free wheels. That allows the front tires to track with the tow vehicle.

Don't even attempt to back up with the CJ hitched up. It's nothing like backing a trailer up. You'll get about 4 feet and the CJ will be jack-knifed and all bound up. So keep that in mind when maneuvering around tight places, like gas stations.

As for what gear, I assume you are talking about the tow vehicle? If so, your normal high gear (or Drive if automatic) should suffice on flat highways. You may need to gear down on inclines, both up and down. If your truck has a tow setting, use it. Avoid riding the brakes as much as possible.

Matt

So, if I have a 4-speed Manual, I leave it in 4th, with the Transfer Case in N, and the Key in Off?

 

Take this from someone who has flat-towed his CJ all over the western USA.
Just disconnect the rear DS at the pinion. Then hang the shaft up with a old sock taped to it so you don't lose the u-joint caps.
Takes 5 minutes at most to do this.
YES-Unlock the steering wheel(I removed the lock rod in my steering colume)
I use a 34 year old Smithybuilt tow bar.
The CJ is towed with my 1T dually crew-cab 4WD PU, with a 10' Lance camper on it.
I do run a 4:1 t'case and not gonna take a chance on messing it up..........
LG

 

I have a 2016 Chevy Tahoe with a tow package so I’m not too worried about the vehicle but would be interest in the flat tow gear recommendations? Do I need to get some sort of brake system as well?

Speed limit the majority of the trip is 65. Not sure where to even start with disconnecting the differential...

 

I have a 2016 Chevy Tahoe with a tow package so I'm not too worried about the vehicle but would be interest in the flat tow gear recommendations? Do I need to get some sort of brake system as well?

Speed limit the majority of the trip is 65. Not sure where to even start with disconnecting the differential...

Speed limit may be 65 on most of the trip, but towing speeds are often reduced. My experience is generally 55 mph max while towing. Obviously that isn't universal, but keep in mind that may be the case. Also, it may be a speed you feel more comfortable towing regardless of the posted speed limit.

 

Maybe you just need to back your jeep up onto a 2 wheel dolly, Lock your steering wheel and pull it backwards..... 8)

 

Brakes are required on trailers over 1500 lbs GVW.
This does not apply to towed motor vehicles......
FWIW: I don't use a secondary system in my Jeep.
LG

 

Most any tow bar will work. You will have to make provisions for attaching the tow bar and safety chains to the CJ. Some fabricate their own brackets that attach to the front bumper, others use commercial kits that bolt on.

Then there are towing lights, which is always a special treat. The best way is to install a towing pigtail/plug that ties directly into the CJ's lighting harness. That way you hitch up, plug the pigtail in, and roll. Others use magnetic towing lights that stick to the rear bumper (or bumperettes). They have their own separate wiring harness and plug.

I personally don't use any brake assist gadgets, either. I've had a bad experience with those on another trailer. I tow with my RV, which is heavy enough, and has adequate enough brakes, so that I hardly feel the CJ behind it. You WILL feel your CJ behind your Tahoe, trust me. You will need to give yourself more distance to stop, and don't do any hard braking, especially going downhill. You never want to experience your beloved CJ whipping wildly back and forth behind you, as it yanks your tow vehicle from lane to lane. Again, trust me, I've been there and done that.

Matt

 

One other thing.


Be sure to test tow your Jeep at speed prior to the trip. I towed my CJ across the country back in the day and it turned out to be a bit squirrely on the tow bar. You may want to insure it pulls straight prior to your trip.

 

Weigh your Jeep with everything you would normally take with you including a full tank of gas. This should be your maximum towing weight. Compare this weight to your tow vehicle's recommended maximum towing weight. My normal tow vehicle a 2003 GMC Sonoma i.e. Chevy S10 has a recommended tow limit of 4,600 lbs. Our CJ5 weighs 2665 wet. That's a 1935 lbs difference. I would think twice about towing a heavier vehicle for very far. When I tow with the RV I never know it's back there and that could be problem.

Air the Jeep tires to their maximum recommended air pressure. That will reduce squirrelly action. Never tow at a greater speed than the highest speed that you are comfortable driving it. Practice towing your Jeep on the worst terrain you will drive on your trip. Use your tachometer and gear selector to keep the engine in the best power band. Manually shift into OD after you are at speed. Downshift before going up the hill and not in mid slope. I'm sure I've missed more than I've said.

Good luck and happy trails!