I had a similar issue when I picked up a 99 xj for my wife....doors very hard to open/close and popped when opened. To fix the issue, I used and still use, garage door track spray lube that is available at most home improvement stores. THis is what I'm using but I'm sure you can find something similar at Canadian Tire or Rona or Home Hardware.

http://www.3inone.com/products/garage-door-lube/

This should work great.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/a...oils-fluids/oil-treatments/releasall-lubricant-340-g-0381530p.html#.U2BwKlVdVSs

Give the hinges a good cleaning with brake cleaner spray first to get rid of the grime and dirt. Let things dry a bit then switch to the garage door spray lubricant. Make sure to give the hinges a good spray while working the door open and closed. Spray the bar that you show in your picture with the pin a good spray INSIDE the door where you cant see and not just on the mounting bolts. It will take a few days for the oil to seep into the hinges and mechanism but the doors will free up and should stop popping. The rusty color in the hinges in the picture looks like the spray you are using is not making its way into the hinge and its not fully lubricating the pivot. You want to make sure you are spraying deep into the hinge pivot while working the door and not just spraying the outside of the hing mechanism where it wont do anything. Either way, make sure to direct the lubricating spray where it needs to be and you should probably switch to a different type of lubricant that will "run" or seep a bit more than what you are using.

 

Hey cool, thanks for the tip, would have never thought of looking for something like that.

 

Your door check is worn and needs to be replaced.

it's the entire unit that is attached to the "bar and pin" (aka check strap).
common problem as the driver's door tends to see considerably more use than the others.

 

Hey thanks for the right "lingo" for this. I found this part on Amazon, looks like it's the right one (55235571AB according the service manual) http://www.amazon.com/Cherokee-Fron...dp/B004TC8O1M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1398860244&sr=8-5&keywords=jeep+door+check.

Do you know of any places in Canada where I could find this cheaper online? Is this difficult to replace (i.e. I have to remove the door, remove the door sides to work on this)?

In the meantime I will get some of the spray and hit the rest of the doors.

Cheers

 

I have to replace the window motor on mine so I'll get you some pics when I pull the door panel. It's pretty easy.

 

That would be awesome, thanks!

 

Upon a closer inspection, it looks like the top hole in the check arm bracket (PN: 5500 2361) is way oversized (zoomed in picture); I don't think this is normally that large, as a matter of fact I read a post from someone else that they experienced the same thing with the top hole getting larger over time and he just replaced the bracket.

It looks like it's that check arm pin being so loose making the noise as it moves around the top hole. I will try and find a check arm bracket, although in Montreal it's likely easier to just go to the dealer, not many junkyards with this sort of stuff, at least it may not be worth it (time/gas spent) if the price from dealer is around $10. We shall see.

 

I wound up working in the dark, so I didn't get any pics. I did take notes though:

In the door handle are three #3 Phillips screws recessed into the plastic. In the door latch and the top forward corner of the door panel are two #2 Phillips screws. Remove all 5.

Pull the perimeter of the door panel away from the door gently to pop the plastic stays out. You may want to replace them as some usually break.

Lift up firmly on the entire interior panel. It hooks into a channel at the window opening.

Once you have it loose, look behind it. There will be two bundles of wires and two metal rods attached to the panel at various points.

To undo the rods, unclip the little plastic pieces horizontally along the rod and swing them away 180°. Sometimes you have to wiggle them a little back and forth a little bit while removing the rod from them. The top rod goes down and the bottom road goes up.

To undo the two bundles of wires, depress the clips in the center of the plugs and pull the wires straight out from the door panel.

Remove the two #2 Phillips screws from each side of the speaker. The plug on the speaker is different from the previous two. To undo it, you need to lift up on the release rather than push it in.

With the speaker out, look inside the door towards the front and you'll see where the two bolts for the door check go through the door body.

Remove the pin from the door check with a pair of pliers. You may need a small hammer to tap it out with.

Remove the two nuts from inside the door and fish the door check out. Get the piece in and out of the door around the window track is definitely the hardest part.

 

Thanks Kevin for the details - I am going to replace the check arm bracket and see if this fixes the issue. Some great detail there though!!

 

I had that problem with my passenger door...It went away when the pin fell out completely...It's a Jeep. It's quiet now. So although I can't just hold the door open, I don't have any problems with it as it is. Door feels smoother to open since it doesn't catch on the little door-holder things. But I'm also young, so doors closing on my clothes and getting them dirty isn't a big deal haha...Good luck, though!

 

That check arm prevents the door from over-opening and putting pressure on the hinges. If someone is in a hurry to get out and opens the door fast it could cause some damage to the hinges/frame. If you're careful all the time I guess it doesn't matter as long as you're ok with the door not staying open by itself. But you have me a great idea, I may switch the left and right side brackets

 

Experienced this same problem with both front doors. The pin over years of opening and closing wears out a larger diameter hole in the check pin bracket which lets it pop around when opening and closing. I ordered new door checks (mine were shot), new pins and new brackets. The **** thing still popped. When to a big box store and got me some properly sized roll pins, tapped them in and it went away.

***If you do end up getting new door checks like I did, make sure you grease the arm. I actually used copper based bolt anti-sieze which works great. The new door checks are very stiff and even with my above mods / replacement parts, it still had a tendency to pop until I greased the check arm which allowed the resistance to lighten up a little***

 

After replacing the drivers side door check, the popping noise was still there. I switched the pins from the passenger door to the drivers door...still no difference. The popping noise is still there. I think like Slobra 300... I will replace the pins. Hopefully, that will do the trick.

 

Yesterday I switched over the driver side and passenger side arm brackets; there is much less noise. At the same time I also used a syringe to push in some high quality lithium grease into the check arm, as well as lube the bracket holes around the pin. Much less noisy now; I'm good with this fix; $0 money spent!!

 

The eye on the bar the pin slides through has elongated over time (softer material than the pin ) the quick solution is to put in a bolt with a larger dimension. There can be no slack between the pin and the eye of the sliding bar.
My solution was to drive out the pin and drive a plastic hollow wall anchor into the hole on the slide bar and cut flush (fits like a bushing) lubricate and reassemble, your door should sound brand new unless you get that squeak because the hinges are going and it drags on the door seal.
Sorry I was late on the post but I just did the job yesterday because of Covid-19 boredom

 

just replaced the driver side today on my 2000 XJ sport. The spring was broken on my. Went to pick a part junkyard and got another for about $5.

 

Getting ready to do this on the newest-to-me Liberty CRD (I assume the part functions the same as an XJ). I think the arm on my door check (so happy to finally figure out the name to this part!) is actually cracked where the pin goes through at the body. I am going to pull the door check from the parts vehicle and swap them out. I was worried that something weird was going to happen since the mechanism is under spring tension, but from the posts here it sounds like a pretty easy operation with the only worry being losing the interior nuts to the inside of the door.