After 16 years my fiver door is out about a 1/4 of an inch from the alignment with the passenger door behind. Everything is tight and no rust, Is there an adjustment I can do to pull the door in that much?
thanks
thanks
Driver door adjustment? How?
davidmatlack
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After 16 years my fiver door is out about a 1/4 of an inch from the alignment with the passenger door behind. Everything is tight and no rust, Is there an adjustment I can do to pull the door in that much?
thanks
thanks
Joined
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1,368 Posts
You can also get some washers and stack them under the lower hinge. Just remove the two 10mm bolts on bottom, loosen the ones on top and fish in the washers between the hinge and unibody. Worked for mine as a quick fix for the driver door sagging. Now it closes and locks really easy without me needing to lift the door while closing it. Someday, I'll buy the proper pins and fix it correctly but it's doing fine for now. Also, if you can post a link to pics that would help - right now, I'm assuming your issue is akin to door sag.
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196 Posts
Door is not sagging
Almost as if not closing all the way. I can push it in for proper alignment with rear door
Almost as if not closing all the way. I can push it in for proper alignment with rear door
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196 Posts
Door has not dropped!
Door has not dropped just looks like it should close further.
Door has not dropped just looks like it should close further.
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196 Posts
Driver door warning is not on!
Door is just a little out- Should I just live with it or is there an adjustment that will pull in slightly? 53 years old I'm a little out of adjustment.
Door is just a little out- Should I just live with it or is there an adjustment that will pull in slightly? 53 years old I'm a little out of adjustment.
I must not be picturing this, the door has to locked or the warning will go off. I can not believe the U shape peace welded to the door Jamb that the latch in the door goes around has move outward. somehow moved. I will look in my factory manual if there is a horizontal adjustment on the latch.
Opinion here
The latch striker, the U piece, is screwed to the Jamb not welded - Duh. My book says how to remove and install it. (take the screws out) Weather when it is loosened there is movement so it can be positioned in and out it doesn't say. There is what is called a latch adjustment:
DOOR LATCH ADJUSTMENT
(1) Locate access hole (Fig. 79).
(2) Insert a 5/32-inch hex-wrench through hole and
into adjustment screw. Loosen screw.
(3) Operate outside handle button several times to
release any restriction because of mis-alignment.
(4) Tighten adjustment screw to 3 N·m (30 in-lbs)
torque.
(5) Test handle button and lock cylinder for proper
operation.
But looking at the picture this has to do with the push button on the handle and latch workings, not moving the latch itself in and out.
On mine the doors flanges of the front and rear door are slightly out from each other and the trim makes it look like it is quite a ways. The actual water tight hatch , inside, that which fits into the jamb and against the rubber seals is the important part. I don't think I would mess with it if weather in not getting in and the computer indicates the door is locked. Aligning that latch striker, if it does mover around, is not going to be simple. Can you get a picture?
The latch striker, the U piece, is screwed to the Jamb not welded - Duh. My book says how to remove and install it. (take the screws out) Weather when it is loosened there is movement so it can be positioned in and out it doesn't say. There is what is called a latch adjustment:
DOOR LATCH ADJUSTMENT
(1) Locate access hole (Fig. 79).
(2) Insert a 5/32-inch hex-wrench through hole and
into adjustment screw. Loosen screw.
(3) Operate outside handle button several times to
release any restriction because of mis-alignment.
(4) Tighten adjustment screw to 3 N·m (30 in-lbs)
torque.
(5) Test handle button and lock cylinder for proper
operation.
But looking at the picture this has to do with the push button on the handle and latch workings, not moving the latch itself in and out.
On mine the doors flanges of the front and rear door are slightly out from each other and the trim makes it look like it is quite a ways. The actual water tight hatch , inside, that which fits into the jamb and against the rubber seals is the important part. I don't think I would mess with it if weather in not getting in and the computer indicates the door is locked. Aligning that latch striker, if it does mover around, is not going to be simple. Can you get a picture?
Joined
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196 Posts
Thanks!
I'll take your lead and leave it alone since it is water tight!
I'll take your lead and leave it alone since it is water tight!
Joined
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196 Posts
Thanks to Everyone that posted for me
Recently I had to visit my dealer for an unrelated maintenance issue but while there I had them look at this door. All of you were right and I'm an idiot sometimes- It was the door hinge pins.
I took it to my local body shop- In this town everyone knows everyone- Their only fix was replacing the entire hinges- Top and Bottom $440. Thank God for a poster that told me about the parts available at Advance #38422 $18 for 2 sets of pins and bushings. My body shop had never done that on a jeep but it worked $100. I decided to have them do it after reading some posts about how difficult it can be. They did also adjust the door so it was flush with the back door- Now it closes tight like new!
Cheers to all!
Recently I had to visit my dealer for an unrelated maintenance issue but while there I had them look at this door. All of you were right and I'm an idiot sometimes- It was the door hinge pins.
I took it to my local body shop- In this town everyone knows everyone- Their only fix was replacing the entire hinges- Top and Bottom $440. Thank God for a poster that told me about the parts available at Advance #38422 $18 for 2 sets of pins and bushings. My body shop had never done that on a jeep but it worked $100. I decided to have them do it after reading some posts about how difficult it can be. They did also adjust the door so it was flush with the back door- Now it closes tight like new!
Cheers to all!
They should not have had to even remove the door. A thing to look out for: The top pine is put in from the bottom of the hinge, unlike the bottom hing. Get a spring hose clamp, Parts store, Doorman, comes in a pack of different sizes, forget which fits the hinge pin top. The pin sticks out enough to get some of it around it. The pin could work it way out, keep a eye on it. Keep a eye on the passenger door. Next time you pass a small shop with a dirt track car parked near, stop in and get to know him.
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196 Posts
Gunner
They did put the top hinge on from the bottom up and tac welded it at the top. It aint going anywhere.
Cheers
They did put the top hinge on from the bottom up and tac welded it at the top. It aint going anywhere.
Cheers
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