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CRD Smell. Holy crap, Black Death

3.8K views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  Vancity  
#1 ·
Been discussed here before but thought I’d share the fun times about to be had.

I’ve smelled exhaust in the cabin for quite a while but thought it was to do with the DPF delete for whatever reason. Today was towing the boat to the launch 15mins from home and punched it a little. Felt a little misfire/chirp. Hmmm
Check engine comes on. Little lightening bolt.... where’s the code reader? Whatever almost there.

Go fishing for a few hours. Load boat and start driving home. Check engine light comes on again. Shortly after the red lightening bolt. At a traffic light it appeared to have a bit of exhaust coming from under the hood. Pulled over, popped hood, it’s extra smelly with a bit of exhaust coming from the injector area under the foam pad, found the code reader.

P0087. Low fuel pressure... I’m not getting the truck and boat towed, done that before. Fingers crossed...

Made it home! Farted around cleaning up. Relaxed in the couch
Oh yeah the Jeep...

Pop the hood and start peeking around to find this.... BLACK DEATH!!


Super duper thanks to Chipz for posting the how to on replacing the injector orings and seals. Gonna come in handy but I have a huge clean up job to do

IF YOU SMELL EXHAUST IN THE CAB, CHECK AROUND THE INJECTORS FOR BLACK SOOT. REPLACE SEALS BEFORE THIS HAPPENS. Don’t be lazy like me and not check, or do...

2 hours so far of excavating black melted foam
 

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#3 ·
Yeah good call on removing them. I figured they didn’t serve much purpose but didn’t realize their presence could lead to such a mess
Off to the dealer soon in limp mode for parts. Gonna need to get this crap hot to remove the injector
 
#4 ·
10 hrs into this mess. About 3 more hours of removing crud then time to reassemble.
Turns out it was both sides :(

6 washers, orings and bolts were 57ish CAD after tax at Mercedes dealer so not bad for same day parts. The orings are 3 times more then the bolts ($1.50 vs 4.50 each) ???

One injector has a bulged tip... a little concerned just trying to decide if I wanna pretend I didn’t see it.

And some more pics...
 

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#5 ·
I soaked my dirty one in fuel injector cleaner, wiping it off occasionally. Worked good with no scrubbing while I cleaned up the injector hole.
Be careful torquing the hold down bolts. They do not require much torque and are a torque to yield bolt, so it will stretch some. I think it was only like 60in-lb if I remember correct. Use a manual scale or a good digital wrench incase you do not hear the click like I did and break the bolt down in the head.
 
#6 ·
I used a twist handle torque wrench, seemed to work well. 60 in/lbs plus 1/4 turn with a ratchet.

Speaking of injector hole. Did anyone else make sure all the openings in the injectors were clean? I soaked them in Super Clean for hours and the cleaner was jet black. Then to double check I took a piece of stainless wire from a wire brush and lightly checked for crud in the gap where fuel comes out. Turns out 5 out of 6 “looked” clean from the outside but the gap had really hard crud that had to be scraped out. This added a couple hours to the job, in hindsight it may have been better to either let them soak overnight, or use an ultrasonic cleaner. The stuff was rock hard in places.
When clean the wire should go straight down along the nozzle and bottom out at around 6.2mm. Maybe a diesel expert could verify it looks and feels as though the “bottom” is just a machined shoulder on the nozzle so be nice but not delicate as there really isn’t anything to damage going straight down along the nozzle

As it was the weekend I couldn’t find any injector shops open to test them. It’s all back together now and for the first time since getting a tune I saw under 10 l/100km on the highway. Actually 8.2l/100.

It has smelled like exhaust since getting tuned 2 years ago. Aside from a touch of residual smell it’s like a new car :smile2:
 

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