I'm not quite sure what's going on with your master but I am very interested to hear what others might think. I am replacing my master and currently rebuilding the transmission on my workbench. From what I understand the spring is only to keep the fork attached to the pivot ball, not to return the fork to original position.

I was reading another post a couple of weeks ago where people were arguing over whether or not the throwout bearing was always in contact with the diaphragm fingers and therefore always spinning. The reasoning was that if it takes pressure to return the slave cylinder and there's no spring to return the fork especially with the cylinder backing it up, then the whole system including TOB would only return as far as the diaphragm fingers pushed it...

I've been trying to decide if there would be an easy way to make some gadget or spring to return the clutch fork...

 

I was reading another post a couple of weeks ago where people were arguing over whether or not the throwout bearing was always in contact with the diaphragm fingers and therefore always spinning. The reasoning was that if it takes pressure to return the slave cylinder and there's no spring to return the fork especially with the cylinder backing it up, then the whole system including TOB would only return as far as the diaphragm fingers pushed it...

I have seen videos online of hot rod guys that actually align the throwout bearing clearance, but those are very differently designed clutched from what we have, and Im sure require much more precise movement of mechanical parts to work correctly. Just my guess.

But I think on our jeeps, It really all depends. I bet there are sometimes when the bearing will stay in contact with the diaphragm but ends up working itself away simply because theres nothing there to keep it forced against the bearing.

Im sure it all varies from shift to shift, and the working temperature of the mechanical parts of the clutch, how well its lubricated and the overall age of the assembly, not to mention the overall RPM of the engine when shifting or while fully engaged.

 

You are correct that the spring is simply a retainer. It's purpose is to keep the fork aligned, so that the piston on the slave cylinder remains seated in the cup at the end of the fork. If the spring breaks loose, the fork doesn't necessarily spin off the slave piston, but it is guaranteed to rattle and clank within the bell housing.

If I understand your description of the clutch pedal / slave cylinder action, it doesn't sound normal. The hydraulic system is totally self-contained, meaning that it is not dependent on the vehicle running, or being attached to an actual clutch. Depressing the pedal while the slave cylinder is detached from the fork should simply result in the slave's piston being forced outward. It should take a firm push to force the piston back deeper into the slave. Then pedal action should force it out once more.

A strong word of caution, however. DO NOT needlessly depress the clutch pedal with the slave cylinder disengaged. It is very easy to eject the piston completely, and then draw some air into the system. It is well known that bleeding the slave cylinder can be difficult.

I hope everything works out for you.

 

I was interested in that post as well, and am now convinced that the OP is correct.. I admit it was hard to get my head around the idea that the bearing is constantly in contact with the pressure plate, as it was contrary to everything l had learned in the past. I have replaced the assembly in my Jeep but did nothing to modify the arm to pull it back from the pressure plate, principally because l believed that was already taken care of in the design. In hindsight, l would have done so, had l known that that bearing was constantly spinning. If l ever have to redo it l would like to modify it so that it will pull back off the fingers. If someone comes up with a workable method, l would love to see it shared on here.

To address your slave cylinder freezing. Is it possible that the piston within either the slave or master has reached the end of its travel, and after you let it sit everything gradually moved back to its initial setting?

 

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To address your slave cylinder freezing. Is it possible that the piston within either the slave or master has reached the end of its travel, and after you let it sit everything gradually moved back to its initial setting?

Its entirely possible...

I think Its entirely possible that because the diaphragm spring on the plate is not there to provide any pushback on the fork and bearing, it is not pushing the piston back nearly as quick as it would be pushed back if there WAS a pressure plate on the other end of is, thus when you press the clutch down the second time just seconds after the first press, the piston has either just begun to slowly slide back into its 'neutral' position, or hasn't traveled back at all, thus freezing the slave up.

Anyway, Im NOT on the road, still in a suburban

Upon further inspection of my brand new clutch kit I found a bent drive strap, (those three spring like straps on the outside of the pressure plate.) After an hour or two on the phone and many emails and pictures back and forth with an engineer at AMS (my kit manufacturer), he didn't feel comfortable enough in the way that one drive strap looked. It could've been fine, but the pressure plate friction surface would likely have not have been pulled back evenly. It was definitely dropped really good in shipping. They are sending me a new one. New replacement clutch will be here tuesday.

fingers crossed.

 

Bent Drive Strap..