I had the same issue on mine. It wasn't ideal, but I ended up unfolding some of the metal right behind the nuts. It was basically a couple pieces of metal folded over each other and tack welded together. I had to use a chisel to pop the welds apart and spread it open. I drilled the broken bolt out of the nut, then used a chisel to remove the old nut that was in there. I then used a square nut I had to replace it and tack welded the nut in. With the square nut, it fit in tight enough that it couldn't really spin very easily in the first place. Then I beat the metal folds back in to place. This was a pretty crude method, but it got the job done.

 

Hmmm I never thought of that.

 

Check out my thread starting on the bottom of page 4, or just start from the beginning of my build thread. I replaced the majority of my body mount sections/nut cages and have fairly detailed pictures of the process in my thread.

Link is in my signature.

 

^^:thumbsup:
You can also check out my build thread, as I had to replace a few as well. My rears were shot so I had to rebuild the end of the box supports too but if they are still good some guys have cut an access hole (square) in from the rear.
I used 1/4"x1 1/2" flat stock cut to size, and then drilled and tapped those. Keep in mind these nuts need to be loose so you can move them around to line up the bolt. The cage just has to surround it's total movement area, and also limit it from spinning. If you cut it long enough it will be impossible to spin on you. Good luck.

 

^^:thumbsup:

...and to your thread too Renegade. Definitely a good source for solutions as well.

 

Can you buy the body mount part anywhere?? I called acouple of places and all they have are the frame mounts but not the body.

 

You can buy the whole piece from classic enterprises

cb

 

I was actually just working on this - Forgive my bad welds, Im still getting that technique down.

Anyway, I welded a nut to a washer and then to a piece of flat metal. That way it could move a little bit to align the body bolt but not spin around completely. As others have said I had to pry the sheet metal back just enough to slide this in and with help from a magnet, get it flipped and oriented properly. Seems to me that these are the easiest to get to without cutting the floor for the other ones up front. Its a bit jury rigged but seems to be working just fine (and having fun welding!). Good luck

 

When I was installing my tub, the drivers side rear bolt was the first one I started with and of course I cross threaded it.... I ended up cutting a hole in that boxed in area with a hole saw right in front of where the captured nut was. I made sure the hole saw was big enough to be able to get a wrench in there, and cut a hole right in front of the original nut. I could then get to the captured nut, but instead of messing with replacing it, I just opened up the cross threaded nut with a drill bit, put a washer and nut on top of the ruined nut in the tub, and ran a longer bolt up thru it and tightened it down. Worked great. I didn't close that hole up in case I need to get to that nut in the future.

 

Too late now for the OP, but for others who made read this, DO NOT TRY TO LOOSEN THE BODY MOUNT BOLTS WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH!!! If you do, you run the risk of "rounding out" of the keepers holding the nut in place in the tub. They can handle pressure from a breaker bar, but the hammering from an impact wrench will destroy them. The vehicle you're working on is old... anywhere from approaching 30 to way beyond 40 years old!!! ASSUME RUST IS HOLDING THINGS IN PLACE!!!

 

Couldn't agree more... also use penetrating oil for a week or so to help get in there... before you do anything, a lot of heat on the bolts and then use the breaker bar... you may still snap the bolt if it is truly rusted and thin, but at least you have a chance to get them out.

cb

 

An impact wrench is the best way I DO get them out. Now we're in different parts of the country so my floating nut boxes are still intact. I apply heat as needed, spray lube, and if they are really stuck, prying the bolt down will put tension on the inner square nut and give the resistance to hold it as the SPEED of the impact gun zips it out.

 

i did the same as above for the rear mount that i broke - used a sawzall to cut the bolt, then opened up the spot welds to get the old bolt/captured nut out. then used a regular bolt with a nut and lock washer inside. final step was to use some self tapping screws to hold that boxed section closed again - hit it with some spray paint/body liner stuff and done. not show quality, but worked

if i had broke every single one i think i'd have just lit the jeep on fire and walked away

 

if i had broke every single one i think i'd have just lit the jeep on fire and walked away

Funny. I did the same thing that Budowski did with welding the nut to the washer. I had a new rear CJ crossmember, and had to repair almost all of the mounting bolts in my YJ tub. The rear holes in the tub are farther outboard than the holes in the crossmember, and I really took my time measuring so that I could be spot on when I put new mounts in. Those were the ONLY holes that lined up correctly when I put the tub on. All my other measurements were off, but I was actually pretty happy that those two were right on. I started the body bolts install with that drivers side rear bolt, and couldn't believe that I got it crossthreaded and ruined the mount. If the Jeep hadn't been in my garage, I might have lit it up like you mentioned.

 

Funny. I did the same thing that Budowski did with welding the nut to the washer. I had a new rear CJ crossmember, and had to repair almost all of the mounting bolts in my YJ tub. The rear holes in the tub are farther outboard than the holes in the crossmember, and I really took my time measuring so that I could be spot on when I put new mounts in. Those were the ONLY holes that lined up correctly when I put the tub on. All my other measurements were off, but I was actually pretty happy that those two were right on. I started the body bolts install with that drivers side rear bolt, and couldn't believe that I got it crossthreaded and ruined the bolt. If the Jeep hadn't been in my garage, I might have lit it up like you mentioned.

It can be such a frustrating project right? But in the end its very rewarding.

I was lucky and picked up an 87 YJ tub for $200. Everything lined up perfectly - all the body mounts, the windshield air vent holes, gas tank on the passenger side etc. Since it was the first year YJ it must have been very close in design to the CJs. I read some other threads and seems the later YJ tubs require some modifications like the rear cross member you mentioned.

 

That's strange, I also have an 87 yj tub; but I had to change the defrost ducts, and the rear mounts as the others spoke of.

Dave in Muskegon using JeepForum app

 

Well that makes sense. It's much easier to go that route, when you're lucky enough to find a clean CJ tub. Here, in the rust belt, it's not an easy find. Hence the yj tub converted to a CJ. Only two clues to give it away, so most don't know it's not a CJ tub.

Dave in Muskegon using JeepForum app

 

yeah, that is a CJ tub and as stated, you were lucky to find a clean one.

I have done many YJ conversions and it all depends on what level you want to bring it to... I have done a couple that hide pretty much all traces of it being a YJ, but if you have a keen eye, you can see a couple tiny details that most people don't go the extra mile to cover up... and even some of the coverups give it away, especially the frame/body mounts.

cb

 

I am running into the same issue my rear body mounts are gone. The whole box that the mounts sit inside are rotted out. I honestly have no idea where to start I don't really know how to weld and may take it somewhere. Do you have to remove the tub to make the fix or can you do it with the tub on? Also replacing back body panel would that allow someone to get to these mounts?

 

It is easier when it is off, upside down, and you know you are working with the rest of the tub in good shape... I did all this and had it sandblasted and fixed all issues. If you don't, it will just come around again.

cb

 

Nice tub!

Noticed the roll bar does not appear to be from 83 CJ7.

 

What is the latest on MD Juan, he used to post on here often.
At one time I was serious about purchasing a tub from them, but have
cense done all the body work myself.
Was just curious.