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SteveHolly

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I recently purchased a 1982 CJ7. It came with a Rocky Mounts SOA, and what I believe is a YJ leaf spring swap as they are 2.5" wide (Im not sure how to tell if the springs themselves have a lift or not). It has 35s and a inch or so body lift. The jeep wanders and steering doesn't return to center. Looking at it, I thought it may need an alignment. So, I took it in today and they said they wouldn't take my money for an alignment as it would be back out of alignment after I went I went around the block. The guy said that when the steering wheel is turned, you can see the front shackles flexing and in turn, the entire from end shifts (when he turned the steering wheel, I could see the shackles flexing along with the leaf springs). I have seen most shackles have a bar that that runs in between where the shackle attaches to the frame and where the spring attaches to the shackle... mine doesn't. Picture below... sorry for all the dirt... since its new to me, I couldn't pass up the big mud puddle I saw the other day.
 

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You need to back off and take a picture of the the entire front end. We need to see the drag link, tie rod, what looks like a sway bar, all of it from driver to passenger side. YJ's aren't the only Jeeps to use 2.5" leaves, I don't believe. We also need a good shot of the leave springs, how much arc they have, what the other side looks like, and exactly what is holding them together. Also, how wide are the tires, are they in good shape ? I can't believe the guys you brought it to couldn't even point you in the right direction. BTW, never heard of the lift company you mentioned.
 
Those shackles should have a sleeve and a bolt in the center hole to help stabilize them from racking out of square.

The alignment shop is wrong though because the only thing that they can adjust in regard to alignment is toe, via the tie-rod. The shackle movement would have nothing to do with toe.


Pretty sure he means Rocky Road bolt on spring over kit.
 
I know they are wrong, still want to see those leaves. For all we know, they are held together with shoe laces ! I've owned several leave sprung vehicles and all of them would flex when you sawed the wheel back and forth while standing still. I am willing to bet his front axle was tilted up in the back because of the crappy lift, therefore he has flighty steering and no return to center. Castor if off, the cheap was to fix it is to install degree shims in between the front leaves and the perches. The right was is to torch off the end castings and rotate them to the right angle. One more thing, not all shackles have a bar across them but it sure looks like yours are supposed to. You can just put the right size bolt through it, with a steel sleeve in the middle.
 
No problem sir ! After doing a spring over about 15 or so years ago and never really gaining back all that is lost in the way of steering, If I were him I would put the springs back under the axles. Maybe a small leaf lift only with a small body lift, then get high clearance fenders to allow the bigger tire. Low, stable,steers right, no spring wrap.
 
That's a tall order of advice for the lack of info we have about the OPs intended use, mechanical abilities, budget etc..


Lots of us run spring over successfully. Steering on a CJ is about as simple as it gets. With good draglink angles, tight components, and the proper caster and toe any CJ should have zero steering issues.


Personally I'm a hater of this bolt on kit, but that has nothing to do with the shackles on this particular rig.
 
They both bring up good points. Even with a correct setup the springs will move slightly side to side as the steering is rotated. That's the built in flex the bushings are for which allow that to happen. But that shackles is part, if not all your problem the way I see it from my screen. Those are a good example of why longer shackles get a bad rap. As was said the center sleeve and bolt are missing. Once you increase the length on shackles the ideal ones have a welded center block or C channel between the sides. Not having the sides tied together to keep them solidly parallel allows them to "rack", which will let the front end move even easier when the steering wheel is rotated. Your sides also look like 1/4" material, which is too thin, especially without a center sleeve or block.
 
The OEM shackles flex side to side. The YJ needed a track bar to keep the axles centered with their soft springs. CJ springs were stiffer, but still flex. You can only adjust toe in and you can do that with a tape measure, but your caster can be adjusted or set with shims. This affects the wandering and return to center. You need to have the shop check the angles so you know what shims you likely need.
 
How far is the spacing on the shackle bolts center to center? That should not be over 4". Also you have your shackles on wrong. Picture of how they should be. From the looks of it you have a positive caster but I'd have that checked, it should be 5-6 degrees positive.
 

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Steve ask a moderator to merge your threads. You are asking advice in two threads that if were combined we would have a better picture of your problems. The same answer may just apply to both threads. Many newcomers make the same mistake and some oldtimers haven't learned to either.
 
Also you have your shackles on wrong. Picture of how they should be.
That really doesn't matter in regards to the problem the OP is having. Those boomerang shackles are only shaped that way to keep the springs from becoming inverted. Yours are mounted correctly for that purpose, but mounting them the other way has no bearing on anything other than keeping them from inverting.

Even with the bend the straight line drawn from mounting bolt to mounting bolt is still straight regardless of how they are installed.
 
That really doesn't matter in regards to the problem the OP is having. Those boomerang shackles are only shaped that way to keep the springs from becoming inverted. Yours are mounted correctly for that purpose, but mounting them the other way has no bearing on anything other than keeping them from inverting.

Even with the bend the straight line drawn from mounting bolt to mounting bolt is still straight regardless of how they are installed.
True. I should have made that clear in my post.
 
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