squeek squeek squeek squeek squeek squeek-same rpms as your driveshaft is turning, if it's a driveshaft joint not an axle joint. As it gets worse it will clunk when on throttle-off throttle. Not hard to fix if you fix it before it breaks.

 

squeaks like bed springs, if ya know what I mean.

 

Ok those discriptions help. its not a high pitch squeak that i am hearing. its almost like a light grinding noise, kinda like a bad cv joint.

please keep the info coming

 

Any more help guys?

 

Pull the driveshafts one at a time and see if the noise goes away.

 

squeak, squeak, squeak
or
click, click, click
or
clunk, clunk, clunk

 

Hey guys, i just noticed a noise from my 98 TJ. It definetly sounds like the noise is coming from around the middle of the jeep. the noise happens under acceleration and a knocking noise when slowing down at stop light. also i am noticing some vibration and a slight studder when releasing the clutch, as the driveline increases rotation. i had a new clutch installed a few months ago, so i know its not that. what are some things i can check?...!

Sounds like a classic bad driveshaft U-joint from your description. You could crawl underneath the vehicle and push up on the shaft to see if there is any play in the joints. If there is play then it it time to buy new ones.
Are they the the original U-joints?
How many miles?

 

Not hard to fix if you fix it before it breaks.

I have a similar problem, and when under the Jeep I noticed the t-case end of the front d/s has a double cardan joint. What do you do about that? I've never dealt with one before.

also, I tried to remove the skid plate (fortunately I had it supported), and the whole tranny/tcase dropped with it. Is that normal or is there a bolt missing somewhere? That just about gave me a heart attack...I was not expecting that.

If that is normal, then do you slide the d/s out of the tcase to work on it (probably will spill oil everywhere??), or do you need to unbolt something at the tcase end? If the latter, how am I supposed to get to it with the skid plate in the way?

Thanks!!

 

Sounds like a classic bad driveshaft U-joint from your description. You could crawl underneath the vehicle and push up on the shaft to see if there is any play in the joints. If there is play then it it time to buy new ones.
Are they the the original U-joints?
How many miles?

128k and i am sure they are the originals. i bought the tj used w/ 115k on it and other than fluid changes it was all original.

so i should look for movement up & down and side to side, on each end of the drive shaft? if they are good should there be ANY movement or does ANY movement mean they are definetly bad?

thanks for the help!

 

I have a similar problem, and when under the Jeep I noticed the t-case end of the front d/s has a double cardan joint. What do you do about that? I've never dealt with one before.

also, I tried to remove the skid plate (fortunately I had it supported), and the whole tranny/tcase dropped with it. Is that normal or is there a bolt missing somewhere? That just about gave me a heart attack...I was not expecting that.

If that is normal, then do you slide the d/s out of the tcase to work on it (probably will spill oil everywhere??), or do you need to unbolt something at the tcase end? If the latter, how am I supposed to get to it with the skid plate in the way?

Thanks!!

The skid does support the Tranny/TC. You can pull the shafts with the skid in place. For the front, I found it easier to get at it from the back and just reach around. You just need to unbolt from the TC yoke. TC fluid will not spill out.

 

128k and i am sure they are the originals. i bought the tj used w/ 115k on it and other than fluid changes it was all original.

so i should look for movement up & down and side to side, on each end of the drive shaft? if they are good should there be ANY movement or does ANY movement mean they are definetly bad?

thanks for the help!

If you see any movement side to side they are shot. But, if you do not see any movement that does not mean they are OK either. The last time I changed a set of U-joints there was no indication that there was anything wrong with them. I only changed them because they had 120,000+ miles of use. After disassembly, the needle bearing were pulverized and they were dry as a bone.

I see in your signature that you plan on doing a Budget Boost installation soon. If you do this modification you will, at the least, want a fresh set of U-Joints for the rear driveshaft. The rear driveshaft deals with 100% of the transportation role. The driveshaft angle will be increased from the added lift and this will increase stress on the U-Joints. Get Spicer brand U-joints. They are the best.

 

The skid does support the Tranny/TC. You can pull the shafts with the skid in place. For the front, I found it easier to get at it from the back and just reach around. You just need to unbolt from the TC yoke. TC fluid will not spill out.

Anyone know of the top of their head what size wrench to use to unbolt the yoke?

Thanks!

 

thanks for the help guys i will check it tonight!

 

Anyone know of the top of their head what size wrench to use to unbolt the yoke?

Thanks!

You need an 8mm to unbolt the front driveshaft.

 

CV joint

Had a vibration problem. Turned out to be CV joint in drive shaft. Looks like a double universal joint . They get rusty and wear out.

 

Had a vibration problem. Turned out to be CV joint in drive shaft. Looks like a double universal joint . They get rusty and wear out.

i swear it sounds like a cv joint to me (i had to replace one in my ZJ) but in the middle of the jeep not the front.

what did it cost you to get it fixed?

 

NCJEEPFAN, are you experiecing the 'knocking noise' in 4WD or in 2WD?

 

NCJEEPFAN, are you experiecing the 'knocking noise' in 4WD or in 2WD?

2wd, i haven't even put it in 4wd lately.

 

Due to time restraints, i dropped my TJ off w/ a local shop that i trust. they just called and said it looks like a pinion bearing. i hope i used the right term, its the bearing in the front of the hogshead that the drive shaft connects to. he said ballpark $350 to 400 to replace but he needs to open it up and check for damage to any of the gearing. so i am waiting for him to call back now.

man this sucks. we're doing some remodeling work at my house right now so definetly don't need this.

 

ok i just talked to my mechanic and the news sucks! according to him it looks like the rear end differential has been rebuilt before i bought the jeep. and it was rebuilt wrong! evidently one thing or something wasn't installed correctly during the rebuild and something caused some free play or something inside the differential (i haven't worked on a differential before so i have to go with what i see here and what he tells me).

so he says we need to basically rebuild the differential. the shop he is at also has a couple of junkyards. so he says its possible that he can find another rear end that may work.

so can you guys tell me what to reccomend to him (as far as what other options woiuld work)? he says they have a yj that has front end damage but the rear is fine and they will have to get a front end loader out in the yard to pick it up and see what rear end it has in it. is that even an option?

he told me the differential is a 3.73 and i beleive its a Dana 35. Guys please tell me what is my most economical and most common sense thing to do.
where should i get the replacement parts? is there one kit out there or do i peice it together?

i have the 4.0 engine, i don't plan on going any bigger than 32's and i can't sink a ton of $ into it right now.

please! help guys! this is my DD and we have a 2 kids so i need it back on the road quickly.

thanks!

 

...he says they have a yj that has front end damage but the rear is fine and they will have to get a front end loader out in the yard to pick it up and see what rear end it has in it. is that even an option?...

It will not bolt right up.

The only bolt up option is another axle from a TJ.

...is there one kit out there or do i peice it together?...

There's complete rebuild kits that you can buy.

Its the same type of kit that you get for a ring and pinion installation.

Get a "Master Installation Kit" and it will have everything you need. Just don't get the "Mini Installation" kit.

 

That YJ has leaf springs so some customization will be needed to get it to fit/work in a coil spring TJ. Also if you do go the route of a donor axle from a TJ make sure the gear ratio is the same as your front gear ratio. Otherwise, you will not be able to use 4WD until the front matches. Price and time in mind, a rebuild kit seems to be the way to go.

A Dana 44 axle would be nice to find with a matching gear ratio but you'll need a different drive shaft.

 

i just talked to the mechanic again, the axle is a "spicer" (it was my fault for thinking it was a d35). where do you guys reccomend me buying the parts for a rebuild from?

thanks

 

i just talked to the mechanic again, the axle is a "spicer" (it was my fault for thinking it was a d35). where do you guys reccomend me buying the parts for a rebuild from?

thanks

I've never heard of a "Spicer axle," per se, but Spicer is a subsidiary of Dana. Someone on this forum had some related advice that is worth thinking about. If you have the guy who is doing the installation order the parts, he can warrant his own work. Otherwise, he can say you ordered wrong or inferior parts.

 

i know this is an old thread, but i'm having some noises that i'm almost positive are coming from the front driveshaft. i only get this noise when in 4wd above 30-35mph sounds like a grinding noise, maybe its a vibe. i've never experienced a vibe in my jeep before so its a little hard to say. i pulled on the front ds up towards the tc and got some movement with a clunk noise. could my joint be going? '97 and has 121k, front ds hasn't been touched to my knowledge. since its a dc shaft, what needs to be replaced, the whole head assembly?