[toddytt]

Are you looking it the pins upsidedown. Ref to the diagram.

I am looking at them the way I numbered them. The wire closet to the firewall is blue with yellow. The one closet to the front of the vehicle is blue with white.

 

[toddytt]

Obviously the pins were reversed at some time in the past. I will just have to note that.
So, for the sake of progress, going from c3 to darkblue/yellow I do show 234 ohms with my meter set to 2000. I know you said to set it to 2k but my meter only goes as low as 20k before it switches to 2000. So I'm not sure if 234 would have been .234 if I had a 2k position. Is this indicating a suitable connection, therefore point towards the PCM?

 

[CCKen]

Ok, so I followed your instructions and no continuity from c3 to 85. However, going from c3 to 86 I do show 234 ohms with my meter set to 2000.
That being said, my previous voltage readings from 85 to ground and 86 to ground were correct.
Something seems all together f-ed up

Reading from 86 to ground you are probably reading a portion of the circuit connected to 86. Refer to the diagram.

The open circuit between 85 and PCM C3 is probably your original problem. The ASD relay would never receive the ground from the PCM to activate the relay. Problem now is to find the open in that wire.

For the heck of it try connecting the battery, remove PCM connector C3, have PCM relay removed, set meter to 20 VDC, turn key to RUN, read between pin sockets 85 and 86. If you read voltage the wire between 85 and PCM C3 is shorted to ground somewhere, if you don't read any voltage the wire is open. Now that you've found the wire between C3 and 85 open using an Ohmmeter and you do read voltage between 85 and 86, it could mean that a portion of the wire has shorted to ground and the other end going to C3 is open. The wire between C3 and 85 is a straight shot-no splices. The wire runs in the wire loom from the PCM to the PDC, to the ASD relay 85.

 

[CCKen]

Obviously the pins were reversed at some time in the past. I will just have to note that.

Leave them alone. Remember, everything worked okay until the current problem popped up. Any wiring connections/routing that were in place before the current problem can be considered correct. Do not attempt to move wiring around to match a wiring diagram wire color codes.

So, for the sake of progress, going from c3 to darkblue/yellow I do show 234 ohms with my meter set to 2000. I know you said to set it to 2k but my meter only goes as low as 20k before it switches to 2000. So I'm not sure if 234 would have been .234 if I had a 2k position. Is this indicating a suitable connection, therefore point towards the PCM?

"2K" is 2000; "K" = 1,000.

 

[CCKen]

Inspect to pin sockets in the PDC for the ASD relay. See if any (especially 85) are corroded or pushed down inide the PDC. Corrosion will have a black or a dark gray appearance.

 

[toddytt]

I'll try that when I get home

 

[toddytt]

Reading from 86 to ground you are probably reading a portion of the circuit connected to 86. Refer to the diagram.

The open circuit between 85 and PCM C3 is probably your original problem. The ASD relay would never receive the ground from the PCM to activate the relay. Problem now is to find the open in that wire.

For the heck of it try connecting the battery, remove PCM connector C3, have PCM relay removed, set meter to 20 VDC, turn key to RUN, read between pin sockets 85 and 86. If you read voltage the wire between 85 and PCM C3 is shorted to ground somewhere, if you don't read any voltage the wire is open. Now that you've found the wire between C3 and 85 open using an Ohmmeter and you do read voltage between 85 and 86, it could mean that a portion of the wire has shorted to ground and the other end going to C3 is open. The wire between C3 and 85 is a straight shot-no splices. The wire runs in the wire loom from the PCM to the PDC, to the ASD relay 85.

I just unplugged c3, turned the key to run and read zero voltage between 85 and 86.

 

[toddytt]

Is there any easy to test at the c3 connection to see if the computer is sending the signal?

 

[CCKen]

I just unplugged c3, turned the key to run and read zero voltage between 85 and 86.

Then that wire is definately open.

Next task is to determine where the break is. You say you've looked at the ASD relay wiring in the PDC and it looks okay (except the wire colors). Obviously I can't help so.

Go to the PCM connector C3 and unwrap the harness to the point where you can see the wire that goes to pin C3 and check the color coding on that wire. Write it down. Examine the wire coonnection at C3 very closely to see if its loose or corroded. You may try wiggling the C3 harness at the PCM while checking the resistance to pin 85 again to see if continuity returns.

Examine the wire harness from the PCM to the PDC to see if there's any penetration damage. Unwrap the loom at any point you suspect is damaged.

 

[toddytt]

Then that wire is definately open.

Next task is to determine where the break is. You say you've looked at the ASD relay wiring in the PDC and it looks okay (except the wire colors). Obviously I can't help so.

Go to the PCM connector C3 and unwrap the harness to the point where you can see the wire that goes to pin C3 and check the color coding on that wire. Write it down. Examine the wire coonnection at C3 very closely to see if its loose or corroded. You may try wiggling the C3 harness at the PCM while checking the resistance to pin 85 again to see if continuity returns.

Examine the wire harness from the PCM to the PDC to see if there's any penetration damage. Unwrap the loom at any point you suspect is damaged.

Examining c3 very closely, it is blue with a yellow stripe which is the same as 86.

 

[toddytt]

Then that wire is definately open.

Next task is to determine where the break is. You say you've looked at the ASD relay wiring in the PDC and it looks okay (except the wire colors). Obviously I can't help so.

Go to the PCM connector C3 and unwrap the harness to the point where you can see the wire that goes to pin C3 and check the color coding on that wire. Write it down. Examine the wire coonnection at C3 very closely to see if its loose or corroded. You may try wiggling the C3 harness at the PCM while checking the resistance to pin 85 again to see if continuity returns.

Examine the wire harness from the PCM to the PDC to see if there's any penetration damage. Unwrap the loom at any point you suspect is damaged.

Do you see what I mean?

 

[toddytt]

Also, I've inspected the wire at the ECM and see no damage and I see no change in continuity from wiggling the harness the whole length from the PDC to the ECM

 

[toddytt]

Just tried my ohm meter from work and got good continuity.

 

[CCKen]

If you want to see if the PCM is producing the .02 volts you can back probe the pin C3 wire (DB/YL). I use a safety pin (see first pic) to back probe connectors (see second pic for example).

When inserting the safety pin in the connector next to the wire, make sure it bottoms out against the pin socket inside the connector.

Set voltmeter to 20VDC like checking at pin 85, back probe pin C3 (DB/YL wire), reconnect C3 connector to PCM, reconnect battery, leave key OFF, with (+) probe of meter connected to the safety pin and the (-) probe of the meter connected to the battery (-) post, you should see the PCM idle voltage of .02-.150 volts. You can recheck with the key to RUN. In RUN there may be an increase in voltage.

Safety Pin:

Example of back probing (MAP sensor):

 

[toddytt]

If you want to see if the PCM is producing the .02 volts you can back probe the pin C3 wire (DB/YL). I use a safety pin (see first pic) to back probe connectors (see second pic for example).

When inserting the safety pin in the connector next to the wire, make sure it bottoms out against the pin socket inside the connector.

Set voltmeter to 20VDC like checking at pin 85, back probe pin C3 (DB/YL wire), reconnect C3 connector to PCM, reconnect battery, leave key OFF, with (+) probe of meter connected to the safety pin and the (-) probe of the meter connected to the battery (-) post, you should see the PCM idle voltage of .02-.150 volts. You can recheck with the key to RUN. In RUN there may be an increase in voltage.

Safety Pin:

Example of back probing (MAP sensor):

I'll do this test as soon as I get home. Thanks

 

[toddytt]

If you want to see if the PCM is producing the .02 volts you can back probe the pin C3 wire (DB/YL). I use a safety pin (see first pic) to back probe connectors (see second pic for example).

When inserting the safety pin in the connector next to the wire, make sure it bottoms out against the pin socket inside the connector.

Set voltmeter to 20VDC like checking at pin 85, back probe pin C3 (DB/YL wire), reconnect C3 connector to PCM, reconnect battery, leave key OFF, with (+) probe of meter connected to the safety pin and the (-) probe of the meter connected to the battery (-) post, you should see the PCM idle voltage of .02-.150 volts. You can recheck with the key to RUN. In RUN there may be an increase in voltage.

Safety Pin:

Example of back probing (MAP sensor):

Just completed that voltage test from c3 to neg battery post and I'm getting zero voltage with the key off and I get 12v with the key in run.

 

[CCKen]

Just completed that voltage test from c3 to neg battery post and I'm getting zero voltage with the key off and I get 12v with the key in run.

Did you have the ASD relay installed when you did these tests?

 

[toddytt]

Did you have the ASD relay installed when you did these tests?

No, the relay was not installed

 

[CCKen]

Just tried my ohm meter from work and got good continuity.

Are you saying that with a different meter you are seeing continuity bewtween PCM C3, Pin C3 to ASD 85?

What's with your new meter vs. the meter from work?

 

[CCKen]

No, the relay was not installed

I'm wondering where the 12 volts is coming from with key to RUN.

Didn't you ay your were seeing the AC system acting up with the jumper installed? I wonder if the radiator fan relay control circuit is dicked up somehow. THe fan relay control wire is right next to the ASD relay control pin in the PCM C3 connector (see pinout diagram).

If you get time, remove the radiator fan relay (and the ASD relay) and take the voltage readings at pin C3 of the PCM C3 connector by back probing.

Also, do the voltage checks at the radiator fan relay pin sockets 85 and 86 like you did with the ASD relay.