It's helpful for forum members to know what year XJ you're working on. Also do you have ABS?

When you took the calipers off, did all of the brake fluid drain out from the front brake lines? I assume you aren't finding new puddles of clean fluid under the vehicle- so we can assume you at least don't have any leaks?

 

It does have abs. It's a 97 xj. No leaks when we attach everything.

 

It does have abs.

Fair warning, I'm no expert on ABS in an XJ. My XJ has regular brakes. Maybe someone else with experience can chime in. I did some quick reading in my Chiltons manual and it does say you need to bleed at all four wheels w/ABS. This might be where the air is trapped. I also looked in my Haynes manual and it says to never let the fluid get down to the bottom of the BMC reservoir.

Whenever I've worked on cars with ABS, I use the pressure bleed method. I buy a BMC reservoir cap at the JY, drill a hole and install a schrader valve (tire valve stem) in the cap. Then use a bike pump to pressurize the system and push fluid out at the bleeder valves, always topping up the reservoir. You may have let too much fluid drain out, getting air in the BMC and you'll need to bleed that out and maybe other components of the ABS system. Be careful, my manual says some components are under extremely high pressure.

If you don't have a shop manual, I'd recommend getting one to help you out. Personally my Chiltons for 1984-1991 covers much more on ABS than the Haynes for 1984-2000. The factory service manual is best but may be cost prohibitive. I didn't read everything about ABS but it looks like it gets complicated quick and a manual will help sort out the necessary actions to take.

 

If the calipers are on upside down, with the bleeders on the bottom, they will never bleed.

 

Also try opening the bleeder then pushing pedal down close bleeder. Repeat. if your master ran dry lines might be air locked not allowing proper bleeding. Once you have fluid coming out then do normal bleed procedure.

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If your master ran dry lines might be air locked not allowing proper bleeding. Once you have fluid coming out then do normal bleed procedure.

Incorrect.

OP has ABS - if MC has sucked in air, Jeep needs to be taken to a place that has a DRB3 tool, or an equivalent that can open and close ABS HCU valves to be able to bleed the ABS hydraulic control unit.

It is possible to bleed to brakes normally even if the MC did suck in air, but you MUST bleed the HCU after that. Why? If/ when tires lock up and the ABS activates, air trapped in HCU will enter the brake lines and causes loss of brakes.

 

Pay attention to posts 5 and 6.........

 

I had the same issue.

Turns out my calipers were reversed (up side down).

Embarrassing moment but was relieved.

The auto parts store was happy as well because I bought a lot of brake fluid before I found my mistake ?

 

Tool*

 

Dunno what dealerships usually charge there for a brake bleed. With the labor costs here across the ocean (authorized stealerships charge ~100-120€/hr.), I'd say around 150-200€ for a brake bleed including ABS unit bleeding. Prices there in the USA may be a little lower, but not by much.

That's why you don't want to get air into the ABS HCU

 

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wow.