At least that one was still one piece, mine came out in pieces.

 

Funny you should mention that. The idea of the mount being the problem was almost dismissed because it wasn't broken. When giving it a closer inspection I noticed the lack of clearance at the exhaust mount. Once the mount was replaced it was clear that the problem was indeed caused by the mount.

Max :cheers2:

 

Mine was dry rotted and the rubber fell out all over the place when I took it out. Bad thing was that I had looked it over a few times and it looked fine before I removed it. I also pushed the t-case around and it seemed sturdy so I had ruled it out as being the problem. Then once it had somewhere to go when removing it, it fell to pieces. I kicked myself for driving it around for months making awful noises and overlooking the problem. Now it is quiet back there and feels a lot smoother.

 

reviving old thread

Thanks for the write-up. i've been suspecting mine for awhile and today it just
started some clunking just as I got home. I got under it and noticed when I pushed around on the rear drive shaft the TC would move up and down. It also clicks a little where it goes in the TC. Time to grease that too. maybe that could be my NP242 shifting issue too.
I vote this be made a sticky

 

I think I'm having the same problem. There is very little space between my exhaust mount and the cross member. If you get a chance Max, could you look at the pic of mine. I just started a threat labeled "Where to start..."

I'd appreciate it.

Also, Any problems with going solid mount over the rubber?

Ryan

 

Does only one know what size/thread the bolts are used to mount the mount to the transmission? Mine are missing.

 

and does anyone know the torque of these 18 mm head bolts that go up into trans?

 

60-81 N-m (44 ft-lbs.)

 

Caveats (some of these may have been covered):
- Using LocTite #242 on the mount screws into the case should be considered mandatory
- As should the use of new nuts on the studs into the crossmember (threaded M8-1.25. I use CRES nuts with Nylon locking collars, so they don't vibrate loose. Easier than dealing with LocTite, in this position.)
- If one mount is shot, replace all three (both engine mounts.) Why? The old mounts will cause accelerated wear on the new one, and wear it out rather quickly.
- While replacing engine mounts, check the screws holding down the engine-side brackets. Use your thinnest feeler gage and try to slide it under the head of the screw. If it goes, remove the screw and put one or two flat washers under the head, then reinstall the screw. Use LocTite #242 - torque specs are on my site in the Tech section (www.kelleyswip.com/tech.html, should be.)
- When jacking up the engine, use a "spreader" between the jack foot and the oil sump. I usually use a section of 2"x6" lumber, about 10" long. It is possible to put your jack foot through the oil sump - which would suck

All three mounts may be replaced with hand tools and a floor jack and a little time - replace them one at a time.

 

I had an exhaust rattling sound during idle under the floorboards for years. I also had a terrible vibrating / grinding sound during hard acceleration. A few weeks ago I had a new transmission installed after a theft recovery so I knew it wasn't a bad tranny. Last weekend I decided to replace the transmission mount and both engine mounts hoping this would solve the problems. (Would have been nice if the shop recommended changing the $29 tranny mount while they already had it all pulled out.) Sure enough the exhaust rattle at idle is gone and the vibration under hard acceleration disappeared. Feels like a brand new Jeep.

The old transmission mount was covered in gunk and shrunk considerably. The engine mounts didn't look bad but had a little dry rot. I found another write up on replacing the motor mounts that was great (http://www.cherokeeforum.com/articles/engine/xj-motor-mount-replacement-11/). Thanks to this write up I saved hundreds on labor at the dealership and only spent $73 at Napa Auto Parts for the 3 mounts. The whole job took only a few hours and I didn't hit any snags. I can't believe how much smoother my '00 XJ Sport runs.

 

Mine was replaced this weekend. Here's the height difference between a sagging transmission mount and a new one.

 

good lord. I need to do mine...

 

Bumping an old thread but I'm doing mine tomorrow morning. Exhaust rattles like crazy on the cross member and in a week or two I'll change the motor mounts.

 

You will need an 18 mm 13 mm and a 15 mm. The reason I say this is because not many people have an 18. As long as nothing is rusted all 3 moons will take u about 2 hours to do it self.

 

Is it possible to remove the mount while it is still attached to the cross member? The reason I ask is because the 13 mm headed nuts on mine are rusted so badly. My 6 point socket is rounding the nuts. My thought is to remove the two bolts which go in the transmission and the cross member bolts and nuts and deal with the mount once it is out from under the jeep.

 

Yea you can do that if you can get to the two that go to the tranny.

 

Yea you can do that if you can get to the two that go to the tranny.

I just replaced mine tonight. I don't think there is enough room on the passenger side to remove the 18mm. If the mount is completely gone, it may separate if you drop the cross support. If not, sawzall it. You're putting in a new one right? Cutting the rubber should be fairly easy. Posted via my pretentious iPhone.

 

Used this write up yesterday when replacing mine. Thanks for the write up!!

Here's a pic of my old and new mount. Such a difference and vibration is gone.

 

Can someone point me to the napa part for this replacement on a 97 sport?

 

Can someone point me to the napa part for this replacement on a 97 sport?

I got mine off rockauto.com. Half the price.

 

I'm in Canada so the shipping from most of the online 4x4 suppliers kills me. All good though, I found the part, it took some time but eventually I realized the 2.5 and the 4.0 take the same part.

 

I'm in Canada so the shipping from most of the online 4x4 suppliers kills me. All good though, I found the part, it took some time but eventually I realized the 2.5 and the 4.0 take the same part.

Rockauto is in multiple countries and does parts for just about every vehicle. Worth a look in the future. I just bought front shocks, rotors, pads, transmission and motor mounts for $205 shipped. And it was all name brand.

Glad you found what you were looking for tho.

 

After replacing this be sure to check those pinion angles also.:thumbsup:

 

Just wanted to ask a quick question.

Is there enough room to get the mount out without dropping the crossmember?

Reason I ask is that I had to lower the mount due to a vibration after suspension lift...I bolted and tack welded the spacer I made for the drop.

 

Are you saying you welded the crossmember to the Jeep?

 

Then unbolting the crossmember shouldn't be a problem. Put a jack under the tranny, remove the crossmember, replace tranny mount, replace crossmember.

 

Basically after busting off the studs trying to get the crossmember off, I did not have enough time to try and drill all the studs out...didn't really want to try either.

I took C channel and welded it to the unibody and then bolted the crossmember to it.

I don't see this vehicle for weeks at a time and my daughter was driving into Pittsburgh on a daily bassis, so I tack welded the crossmember to the C channel in case she lost one of the bolts...basically for my piece of mind I guess.

I can cut through the welds, but thought that maybe there would be enough room to unbolt the mount and get it out.

I guess I could just give it a try and do what I have to do, but was just wondering.