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AW4 Solenoid replacement write-up (no 56k).

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224K views 112 replies 68 participants last post by  rocadoodle  
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#1 ·
This started off with a friends 1997 Cherokee Sport. His vehicle is equipped with the 4.0, AW4, and 231 case.

While playing around in 4wd, he noticed his CEL light come on and the Jeep was very sluggish on acceleration. It felt as though the Jeep was trying to take off in 3rd gear. When he manually placed it in 1/2 and accelerated, the Jeep accelerated as it should. He also had to manually shift it to 3rd and OD. While driving down the highway, it became obvious that the TQ was also not locking up (running 3k rpm at 70mph). I had him take it to AutoZone and have the codes ran, and it showed codes:

P0700- Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0758- Shift Solenoid B Electrical.

I did some research on here and a few other sites, and found this write up for PRE-97 models.....http://www.transonline.com/transdige...ers/index.html

On the 97 and up, the TCU is located under the dash on the right side of the steering column. I could not find a diagram that showed how to test the TCU on a 97 up Cherokee, so I did the next best thing. I crawled around underneath and checked all the wires coming out of the tranny. I found no lose wires, kinks, or breaks. This lead me to believe it was a Solenoid.

I started by ordering a 2 pack of Solenoids for $98 here:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=A340solenoid

Remember, the AW4 is the same as the Toyota A340, so this is what the parts will say when you get them.

Once the parts arrived, I went to the parts store and picked up a filter/ gasket kit and 3 qts of tranny fluid. Once I had the stuff I needed, it was time to get dirty....

Start off by draining the tranny fluid using the drain plug...

Image


Next, I removed the 10mm bolts holding the transmission pan on (hint: leave 2 on one side in so the pan does not fall to the floor when you break the seal on the gasket...saves on the mess)...

Image


Continued....

John
 
F
#2 ·
I had a heck of a time getting the dipstick tube loose, so I left it attached to the pan. To do this, you will need to remove the bracket that holds the tube to the bellhousing (13mm). This can be easily accessed from the engine compartment...

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Once I had the pan dropped, I got a better look at the internals...

Image

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Here is a quick MS Paint label job of the solenoids. The front of the Jeep is on your left, so the #2 solenoid (b) is the one all alone.

#1 1/2-3/4 shift solenoid
#2 2/3 shift solenoid.
OD- OD solenoid.

Image


Next, remove the 4 bolts holding on the tranny filter (which holds a suprising amount of fluid...lol)..

Image


Now we use the 10mm again, and remove the #1 and #2 Solenoid bolts. Once you have the bolt out, the Solenoids merely pull straight out.

Here is the old (right) and new (left). Notice the new solenoid has a ground wire. This is attached to the bolt when you re-install the solenoid

Image


Continued......
 
F
#3 ·
To install the new solenoids, you merely push them in to the hole where the old solenoid was. You will then attach the supplied bracket to the solenoid and bolt it down. Remember to attach the ground wire to the bolt!! The new solenoids come with a longer wire, but a little routing can solve the problem.

New B (#2) Solenoid installed...

Image


New #1 Solenoid installed....

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You will now install the new Transmission filter, using the original bolts. Once it is installed, you can clean your pan and transmission housing of old gasket. Now you are ready to re-install the transmission pan. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in and re-attach the dipstick bracket.

I started off by putting 2 qts of tranny fluid in. I hooked the battery back up and started the Jeep. I then ran it through the gears, and it worked :) I took the Jeep for a quick test drive and it solved all the tranny issues. The jeep would take off in 1st, shift on its own, and the TQ would lock-up as it should. After the test drive, I checked the fluid level and added 1 more quart.

I hope this helps and let me know if you have any Questions.

JOhn
 
T
#12 ·
Alrighty, so I finished the project successfully, but man were there some pain the *** moments. First the pan was on pretty good so it took a little bit to get it off. Then I had to get the dip stick tube disconnected, and that was not fun, or getting it reconnected. But the process of switching out the solenoids only took about 10mins or less. Also took a little bath in some tranny fluid. :) Overall its a pretty feasible project, just be prepared to be in some awkward positions under the Jeep if its not lifted. Thanks for the write- up by the way it help alot!

Alex
 
#15 ·
Great write up, great explanation, graet forum.

I have 2000 Cherokee Classic with exactly the same problem, I will check codes and do all T/S, and if I have I'll order the 2 solenoids.

I got one Q:
Can I install the solenoids kit (from Mako) in the 93 ZJ AW-4 tranny and solve an OD not working problem?.

Thank you for the thread that helped a lot of Jeep owners.

Hamid
Jeddah, Saudia Arabia.
 
P
#16 ·
Thanks for the write-up and the pictures, John. I'd read it awhile back but didn't find my bookmark until after I'd dropped the pan and checked the solenoids on our 96 Country (one shift solenoid and the OD solenoid have no continuity).

I had a screaming-cussing fit over that $#%&^ dip stick tube; couldn't pull it loose from above after removing the bracket bolt and couldn't drop the pan with the whole thing because the bracket hung up and the pan hit the exhaust pipe on one end and the cross member on the other; I even put vice grips on the top of the tube and asked my wife to hold it while I turned and pulled the pan from the bottom, but to no avail. I gave up for the night and finally thought of using a tubing flaring clamp (which I could just barely fit onto the bottom of the top tube) and prying against it and the edge of the bottom tube with a right angle pry bar (like a ladyfoot but flatter) and it worked. I still had to jack up the transfer case and remove the cross member before I could get the pan out, but I finally got it.
So here's a question. I apparently managed to break the little black plastic "keeper" on the solenoid #1 connector end while I was twisting the pan around and I am wondering if it is necessary. It looks like it just covers the wire where it goes into the brown connector so I am wondering if I can safely leave it off.
Now I just have to find a couple of solenoids and fight that $#&^% dip stick back into the lower tube when I get it back together.
 
P
#18 ·
Quick update on finding solenoids. A web site listed the 3 solenoid kit for $150 but was "out of stock". Called a Jeep dealer who could order a shift solenoid for $224. Stopped at Autozone and they had a 1-2 shift solenoid in their data base for $229.

So I went to my favorite salvage yard, The Junk Yard Dog in Rogers Arkansas, and "Paul the trans man" there had a valve body in his parts basket he said he had just taken out and it had three solenoids that looked similar to the aftermarket ones shown on line. He took them out and I got my meter and all measured 13 ohms. Price? $45 for all three. Even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then.

Now to put these puppies in, install the new filter, and fight the pan back on before the snow flies tonight. I'll let the RTV set up before I try it, but my fingers are crossed.
 
P
#19 ·
Quick Update #2. The larger shift solenoids went in just fine even though the connectors slip on from the inside VS the outside on the smaller original ones; the converter lockup solenoid wire didn't quite reach so I made up a short extension with male and female spade crimp on connectors.

Once the pan was back on the upper dip stick tube slid easily in place with the help of a good cleaning and a little grease on the O ring; amazing since it was so hard to remove. Now I have all four gears and the converter lockup again and momma is happy to not have to move the shift lever. And I have a backup ebay TCU that I didn't need (I did try it before remounting the original one and it worked fine too). Life is good again and will be even better when the scratches and cuts on my hands heal and the permatex wears off.
 
#26 ·
It's about 200 dollars for all 3 solenoids. And yes you want the ones for your 98 AW4 standard/auto tranny. I've done alot of research on this and found out that most of the Cherokees with the tranny solenoid malfunction was on 98 Cherokees. Which I found odd. I replaced mine about a week ago and it drives way better. The new solenoids you're gonna get are gonna look way fifferent than the ones in your tranny now. But it's pretty easy to figure out. Hardest part of the whole job was screwing the tranny pan bolts back. There's enough bolts on that thong to start a country.
 
#28 ·
Don't go to autozone. Get them from the website provided by the original poster. There are 3 solenoids. OD, 1, & 2. Solenoids 1 & 2 are the same. Doesn't matter if you put solenoid 1 with solenoid 2. But there's specificallly a OD solenoid. If you go under and look solenoid 1 and OD are on the same side and #2 is all alone to the right (which I find odd, I would thought they'd be togethor forever). Make sure you put the OD solenoid where it belongs as for the other two, as I mentioned earlier it doesn't matter.
 
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