I am in. PM sent.

 

Been looking for something like this. Count me in for one of these. That's a great way to add auxillary circuits.
Rich

 

I wish I would have found that simple fuse/relay combo box 4 years ago.

 

The parts only cost breaks down as follows:

1 set $131 total - $45 for 20 connectors - $86 for the panel and Relays
2 set $90 total - $23 for 10 connectors - $67 for the panel and Relays
3 set $77 total - $15 for 7 connectors - $62 for the panel and Relays
4 set $72 total - $12 for 6 connectors - $60 for the panel and Relays

I have ordered my parts so I'm good. If there is anymore interest, just use the part numbers above to order your own.

 

Awesome, I'm thinking about doing this same thing.

 

I'm lucky to have ordered one while he was still putting them together

I would get another one in a heartbeat if they were available. Thanks for emulating it!

 

i am too putting one together. ordered the wrong box the first time, waiting on the right one now. make shure that you order the crimping pliers for the terms. it will make it go so much easyer and quicker, but then again they are not cheap.

 

Just found this for a one click order. Costs a little more than piecing it together but thought I'd put it on here.

http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/accessories/aux-relay-fuse-panel/

 

I got mine all put together and installed. I could not find a location on the passenger side by the battery I liked. Everywhere I tried it just looked too crowded, so I mounted it on the passenger side.

I ran a 72" 4AWG positive and negative to the box location. I ran grounds from each light to a stud mounting the box bracket and connected the ground from the battery there as well. The ground is a little redundant but it ensures good integrity of my ground circuit. With the additional 6' of cable I get less than 1/2% voltage drop at 20 amps. That is acceptable to me for the un-cluttered mounting location.

I did my fog lights, and the H4 Headlight conversion with the box and still have two circuits for my reverse lights and whatever I end up with as additional lighting.

The electrical supply store where I got my wire cut all 10 ga wire by mistake. I didn't realize it until I had to get another piece. I was cussing Wayteck for sending 14 gauge pins cause they would barely crimp around the wires. I soldered every connection so it didn't matter but it was frustrating. But the good part is I now have 10 ga wire for all my lights. With my 70 watt Osram's I only have about 0.1 volt drop at the far side headlight.

The links above are pretty good show and tell for instruction purposes, but here is a picture showing where I mounted mine.

 

Nice job Mike! Now to get mine done, hopefully this coming weekend.

 

Is the part list the amount used in one setup or multiple? If multiple can someone that has done this set up specify the quantity of each part. Thanks.

 

How many you need of each depends on how many YOU need of each. Different parts for different wire gage depending on your application. I used all 12-14 ga output and 16-18 gage inputs. You have to buy most of the little stuff in lots of 50 or 100 so your gonna have plenty of everything. The price drops dramatically if two go in together.

These are just for the block. Ebay has pretty good prices for the connectors 1 at a time

This will give you 5 Relay controlled circuits and 5 fuse only circuits to play with

MINI FUSE AND MICRO RELAY RTMR PANEL BUSSMANN 15303-5-2-4 46345 1
DELPHI CABLE SEAL- GRAY #12010293 CHANGED TO 15324980 16-18ga 39001 15
DELPHI CABLE SEAL-BLUE #12015193 CHANGED TO 15324981 12ga 39002 15
PACKARD CAVITY PLUG-GREEN DELPHI # 12010300 39010 15
MOUNTING BRACKET ATO / ATC & RTMR FUSE BLOCKS 46085 2
METRI-PACK 280 SERIES FEMALE 12110845 TERMINAL 14-12GA 31069 15
METRI-PACK 280 SERIES FEMALE 12129409 TERMINAL 16-14GA 31068 15
SONG CHUAN 280 ISO MICRO RELAY 35A 12V SPST RESISTOR 75724 5

 

Awesome, thanks for the info.

 

Nice job, box is well done but your install took time, looks good.

 

Do you have any pics and specs on how you build it? Or is it the same design as in this thread?

 

I would be interested in one of these. Please check your PMs.

 

mdkallas, Please clean out your PM box so I can send you a message. It's full.

 

The link doesnt work anymore, are you still making these?

 

He's making some for me and some friends. I have at least one left. Pm me.

 

good afternoon! I'm interested in purchasing one or two of your relay boxes. Can you forward pricing info?

Thank you,
Kevin

 

I have the parts to make 1 if anybody wants them... I ordered enough for 4, but somebody had to back out. Everything is set for 12-14ga, and is all there but wire, 4-10x32 screws, and the loom of your choosing.

I'm into the parts for $73.61 and can get it into a med flat rate box for $12.65. Everything is small, but unfortunately it is too big to fit into a small box. Also willing to meet up within reasonable distance for a 6-pack and maybe a future trail ride...

PM me if interested.

 

Hi.
I am restoring a 1927 Model T Ford. I need to add some additional electrical circuits. (stop/turn signals, horn etc.) To conceal as much of the control wire I need to use some relays (preferably individually fused). I am having a hard time getting my head around the Bussmann 15303 series blocks wiring system.

The block you made seems to be the perfect solution to my problem if I understand it correctly (5 relays individually fused with 5? open fuse slots.)

Do you have or know where I could get some instructions about how to actually insert the wires/contacts into the block. I have not purchased the block yet.

Thanks for any help you can give me

Alby Anderson

 

There is another way (although I'm not certain if there is any benefit to it) where there is always fused power being run to the relays, and the switches used to energize the relay coils. This allows for 5 fuse-protected relays, and 4 individual fused circuits, with the 10th fuse protecting the switches that run to the relays.

I'm no electrician, so I don't know if there is any benefit or drawback to this method, but it is there. The photo below depicts the wiring diagram that I'm talking about. There are many others out there; many with similarities and many differences...up to you to determine your preferences. I think that the only drawback to the below, is that your relayed accessories will ALWAYS have power as opposed to having them energized ONLY when the key is on. I can pm you some alternative diagrams if you like.

If you like, as I referenced in my pm, there is another individual on the forum who is interested in buying the parts. I can get your info to him (or vice a versa) so that y'all can take advantage of buying the parts to build in large enough quantities to save a little cash.

Also, if you'll look at the first post in this thread, there are a couple of links to WayTek catalog pages. The page linked here: http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog225/#/31/OnePage has the assembly method for the WeatherPak terminals...it is the same for the regular 280 series metripack terminals.

Hope this helps...I'll be glad to exchange P.M.s or phone calls if necessary. Let me know! :highfive:

 

These are nice little units. I have been interested in one since I owned my FJ62 Landcruiser but I final got around to ordering the parts and pieces to build one. Does help to order enough parts for 4 of them because of the min. parts order. Went with using 5 fuses for the relays with a single planned for the switches if I don't end up using an ignition switches source. Used all #12 wire for the accessory leads and the fuse to relay jumper and #14 wire for the relay trigger. A bit overkill but I have access to fine strand 105c MTW wire in those sizes. Used 1,3,5,7,9 fuses for the relays to keep the bottom side jumpers looking uniformed and filled in the reset with 15a fuses that I had on hand. Makes it easy to install with the color paired wires little going to switch and big going to the accessory. Just waiting on some fusible link to show up to get it installed.

 

Is there still very much interest in these aux/relay panels? I have seen that they are being used for headlight wiring harness upgrades on the older land cruisers. I just built a custom headlight harness for my JK but didn't have this panel in hand when I did it. Would be a much cleaner install having the relay buttoned up in the box.

 

I'm getting ready to make one of these pretty soon. If I were to post a wiring diagram later on today could someone check it over for me?

 

Sure thing, we would be happy to.

And I know a thing or two about them, as the picture that h1driver linked is mine from when I sold a couple of spare ones in the classified section

 

Is there a reason to run such larger feeder wire to the bussman? According to the wire sizing charts I have looked at #10-#8 should be more than enough depending on the length of the run. Shouldn't it? I know that the relay panels that I first saw being made for the land cruisers were #10 wire up to 36" with a #14 fusible link. Something that I found to help overall looks was to use every other fuse for the relays that made my jumpers all the same length and overall made the bottom side look better. Electrically for out relays it doesn't matter if you use the 30 or the 87 pin for the power but if you ever run into a relay that has both a N.O and a N.C contact then you are better off staying with the common point connection which would be the 30 pin.