Bummer, no info on these?

I don't get a warm fuzzy feeling about OEM either. Since they require a core, they must be rebuilds, How do we know we're no getting a $300 dud with 300,000 miles on it with just the brushes being replaced.

Speaking of brushes, they don't say anything in the FSM about replacing them, but aren't they wear parts expected to be replaced? Can I just buy some brushes somewhere are try that first?

 

you can rebuild you alt. Kind of easy to do....

 

I stopped off at my local Napa. They don't test them

I asked if they can get me new brushes - nope. I'd be happy to try to rebuild it, where would I get the parts?

 

Google can be very helpful. May not be the one you need but maybe you get the idea. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Parts-Accessories-/6028/i.html?_nkw=alternator+repair+kit

 

Napa is the only place besides the dealer where I buy accessories, I;ve had very good luck with Napa parts. It's also the only place where I rarely get wrong parts.

I'd call a local electrical shop, usually there'll be an old guy in a run down shop that is very good with it. There's a local guy here that rebuilds alternators for $70. He can even install larger stators to get more output.

 

He can even install larger stators to get more output.

If you are going to have the shop rebuild yours he can also beef it up as well. :thumbsup:

this is sweet info for if mine gives it up, thanks!

 

I found an alternator shop. He was able to reproduce my problem on his test machine too - it would charge then stop for a while, then start again. Price was a little steep ($115) but still better than offshore rebuild prices - and supporting a local shop , so we'll see how it goes.

I found that the dealer has new and rebuilt alternators as well. BOTH have a core charge. Rebuilt are about $140 and new about $240.

I'm basically betting that the local guy whose livelyhood is nothing but alternators and starters is my best choice if I'm going for rebuilt.

 

I'm basically betting that the local guy whose livelyhood is nothing but alternators and starters is my best choice if I'm going for rebuilt.

I use a local shop for rebuilding my starters and alternators with good results. If you upgrade the field windings in the OEM alternator housing, you also run the risk of overheating the alternator when under load... IMO

 

If you are going to have the shop rebuild yours he can also beef it up as well. :thumbsup:

 

Why not just pull the bigger one out a dakota or durango? There is a thread on here with specific years etc. its an easy bolt in upgrade i think mine is a 136amp. Got mine for like 40.00 used, but you could find a new one at napa im sure.

here is one of the threads on it, but there is a few all over the forum

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/durango-alternator-swap-pictures-1063518/index4.html

 

Why not just pull the bigger one out a dakota or durango? There is a thread on here with specific years etc. its an easy bolt in upgrade i think mine is a 136amp.

I got one from a 2000 JGC (136 amp) and it works well...

 

Hey Knuckelhead, sorry I know this is old and I am not sure where you are in Colorado but where is the shop you use for rebuilding alternators? Thanks!

Several years ago I had GeneratorExchange on west 44th in Denver rebuild the alternator on my old Triumph. Unfortunately I didn't realize that my main wire harness had shorted out and I quickly blew out some of the diodes on it after I got it back. They rebuilt it the second time for only the cost of parts while I waited. Great shop.

 

At the napa I work at our alternators are made by rayloc and have a warranty to be free of defects for the lifetime of the vehicle. Definitely top notch parts and I have only seen a couple defects in 2.5 years there. Great parts, especially compared to other stores

 

I had a similar shop in Sacramento that I used for all of my Harley generator's. You had to get to know the old fart to understand him. He took me to the cleaners on the first generator, the next one I brought to him cost him more in parts then I had to pay for the repair (3 brush, 6 volt). We got along just fine after that...