ABS repair PART TWO

After getting it all back together I plugged in the drb ran the HCU motor and tested for codes. She's good to go. Test drove and I now have ABS again.

 

Nice!

:thankyou: for sharing the pics and write-up!

 

Thanks Korea. I am just the apprentice OBI-WHAN,lol.

 

my mechanic says:

"4009-hydraulic pump circuit - there is power to the pump, and when commanded on, it will not run, the motor is shorted/open and needs replaced"

can this be fixed by working/replacing the module or do i need a $1200 pump?

 

Most likely the board rather than the pump.

You can confirm this by disconnecting the two pin connector and applying battery voltage to the pins. If the motor runs when powered up directly, you do not need a motor.

Nice write up btw, I had missed it somehow.

 

I would give it a shot before going for the big bucks. Just brush up on your soldering skills. Remember the vid is for a specific controller made by Teves, mopar #56027831. Most likely, the two solder joints that connect to the two motor pins on the board are bad. Take your time, a mini hacksaw will seperate the case, dont cut too far. Most recently I used a plastic welder from HF to break the glue bond and maintain more case integrity. I epoxied the case back together when complete and sealed the gap with rtv.

 

Thanks,Zee!

 

Changed out the ABS module this AM. Still have ABS lamp on. Took it out and did some 15 MPH stops so the module could see the sensors, no help.

My old module was giving a pump circuit failure, so I wrung all of those circuits out... all good. Connected pump straight to battery... it ran.

Any ideas besides reading the codes?

 

Changed out the ABS module this AM. Still have ABS lamp on. Took it out and did some 15 MPH stops so the module could see the sensors, no help.

My old module was giving a pump circuit failure, so I wrung all of those circuits out... all good. Connected pump straight to battery... it ran.

Any ideas besides reading the codes?

Where did you get the replacement module? Was it re-soldered? If you just got one from the junkyard, it's likely to have the same issue. I know this from experience.

 

Well damn, sorry Zee. I gave it a shot. As soon as I find a reasonable price on a case I'll send ya the koolaid if you want,lol.

 

I'll send ya the koolaid if you want,lol.

LMAO.. touche'

 

Today when I was working on it I was pondering the effects of a cracked header on the ABS module. Then I thought about your heat shields. Probably would be a good candidate for a precautionary mod... if the damn thing worked...

 

I was serious, but the only one I am seeing at the moment is $ 137.00 which seems steep to me. Mine was dead for over a year, but worked when I installed the resoldered one. I know of another in a local yard that I have to go get a BCM out of to match the PCM I already pulled {unalarmed}. I'll get it and have another go. At my yard they see me so much its cheap.

 

I thought you were paying me back for poking at you about buying a scan tool.

The light has been on about 4 years. I'll keep tinkering with it until i figure it out.

 

Is there a service that will do the resoldering for a fee and ship it back to you?

 

Can someone help me, I'm in a bind. I removed my ABS mobile and cut it open to fix the problem. And yea it was the solder joint. Problem is my screw driver slipped when I was trying to pry it open and broke this component on the circuit board. It knocked the cover straight off of whatever it is. That's the problem I have no idea what it is. If anyone knows what it is or can read me the information off theirs that would help me a lot.

I think it was a relay of some sort.

 

the board is broken (unrepairable IMO) so bet thing to do would be punt.

try your luck in the junkyard

Edit: nevermind

 

on second zoomed in look, that appears to be the edge of the conformal coating. And it looks like a solder joint is broken on whatever that is is the upper left hand corner

 

That sure looks like the base of a surface mount relay. What happened to the rest of it? Any numbers or markings on the broken part? You can usually find those parts online but some of the old electronics are out of production.

 

i was going to guess a rectifier but idk

if you can figure it out, you need to fix this

 

and maybe these too

 

I think he was talking about this. Just looking at the video in the original post it had a black cover with markings but the video quality isn't good enough to make it out. Can't find any better pictures of it googling. Without that part your looking at a junkyard module anyway.

 

Yep, that's the thing I'm talking about. I was able to find a video of someone holding it with their hands but I can't make it out. Tried talking to someone from Digikey and the photo is too terrible for them. Plus they kept hampering me about how I'd never get it off, even though I already did. Tin foil surrounding the area and a heatgun on it for 30 seconds allowed me to pull it off. But I still need a replacement.

 

Here's the area with the component removed.

 

HURRAY! I found the plastic cover for it. It was sitting in the dirt at night so I must have gotten lucky.



*UPDATE*

Digikey person thinks it's a crystal or an oscillator with a frequency of 15.9MHz but they don't have it, and it's a guess. He maybe onto something cause the underneath looks like this.

 

That's some good detective work duke. Too bad DigiKey didn't have any, they are my first source for electric parts. Just googling 15.9 mhz oscillator came up with a few hits but not on any websites I can recommend.

 

Thanks, but next is to try a forum like badcaps.net. These ABS modules cost $100 or more, so a $5 part seems worth trying. I'll see what local junk yards want for them tomorrow.

 

Really helpful thread, thanks for starting and the ongoing contributions. I've confirmed my pump is still good and have removed the module (ATE pn 56027931) which looks just like the one in the video on the inside....i just can't tell what to do next. The solder points on the power and 4 pump pins don't look cracked or bad. I'm not getting any audio on the video, so can't tell if i'm supposed to scrape them and then resolder or what....any advice greatly appreciated. Should I be able to see an obvious fault on the board?

RJ

 

I would reflow them anyway.