What kind of trails do you plan on running? In bare minimum swap in a HP D30 from an XJ. 33s and a 5.9 is not a good idea with an LP D30, and you can expect destroying just about any of the rotating parts an a HP D30 as well. Stock- style CV shafts are the weakest point, upgrading to alloy shafts will destroy R&P before the shafts let go.
Wheeling only on easy trails trails and keeping RPMs under 1500 when in 4lo may keep you out of front axle- related issues

 

This sounds expensive already. uwharrie state park with rocked line trails it seems.

So you saying with the 5.9 and the 33s i will rip the front axle apart? :frown2:

 

With 33's and a heavy foot even the 4.slow can rip the stock axles apart.

Why the heck would you want to lift that high for only 33's?

You don't want a t-case drop, ever. An SYE isn't necessary at all at that height. These aren't wranglers where the rear shaft is shorter than my, uh, stock front shaft, the rear driveline is pretty good up to 7".

 

I would like the long arm kit, I didn't think i could fit 35s under a 5.5 inch lift.

 

Well you can, but 35's will REALLY destroy axles fast with a 5.9.

All of the long arm kits make a bunch of compromises to allow them to be easy to bolt up. If you like driving your jeep on the street, you're not gonna have a good time with something like the IRO design.

What fab skills do you have?

 

Dang, I thought IRO was top quality. No fab skills. This isn't my DD as i have a 2016 Superduty. This was my trail rig that i would like to drive to the gym and back, light driving around town with more focus on trail riding.

What do you suggest?

EDIT: what about the Rubicon Express 4.5 inch long arm?

 

Back in 98, Peterson's 4 wheel and Offroad busted a from drivesaft when testing the 5.9 and that was with stock tires..

 

I bet they ran the CV front driveshaft.

 

For the love of humanity...

Put the 5.5 on and 33s or trim for 35s.

Here's mine on 35s, stock front Dana 30 with 4.56s and. 375 HP crate 5.9.

Maybe it's because I'm special....Nah, it just works.

Hunter

 

Here's mine on 35s, stock front Dana 30 with 4.56s and. 375 HP crate 5.9.

Maybe it's because I'm special....Nah, it just works.

Hunter

I beat the crap out of my XJs that were on 35s, 4.88 gears. Never broke even a shaft on the front .
With the ZJ, I've done nothing but break stuff on tve front axles all the time, driving mostly smartly. Trails ranging from easy to hard.
Dunno why, but the turdy just doesn't work

As for the front DS, the CV version definitely is junk, just like the front CV-style axle shafts are.

 

Printed this on my 3d printer.

Also lost my middle support for the sound bar so i fixed that as well.

 

So i just picked up a 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited with 152k Miles. This is going to be my trail rig. I would like some help and advice as i have a general plan based on what i have been able to research but i'm looking for as much help as possible. Once i get it to the shop to do some basic maintenance i plan to take it to the off road shop to have a lift done once i hash out the details of it.

Rough Plan to start:
Iron Rock 5.5 Long arm kit
Fox Shocks
Over The Knuckle Steering
33s w/ rims
transfer case drop kit or Slip Yoke Eliminator ( which one is ideal? )

Anything else i'm missing that i should know about?

#1. The best bang-for-the-buck is a rear locker. If you have a rear locker and good tires, you will go through stuff no lift kit can help you out of. I have recently seen Youtube videos of Suzuki Samurai's with lockers and stock ride height go right through stuff that instantly bogged down lifted Jeep's and Ford's and Chevy's and Nissan's with open diff's.

My 5.2 ZJ has 3.73 gears, 4.5 RC short arm kit and newer 33x12.50 MT's and I got stuck in a hole that my son's stock Astro AWD with 3.73 gears and a G80 locker in the rear on 235/75 Wrangler AT's with no lift in rear and front torsion bars cranked up about 2", went right through it, and then he pulled me out.
I am not experienced enough to recommend a brand or style, you will have to do your own research on that one based on your planned trail difficulty and your budget, but get a locker and you won't be disappointed.

#2. Magnums! I love Mopar small blocks! I have had 1 LA 360 and 4 Magnum 5.2's BUT...From what I have read and experienced, all Magnums have a design flaw. 3.9 V6, 5.2 and 5.9 V8. The "keg" upper intake is a two-piece design with a cast aluminum "keg" upper section and a thin flat steel plate that bolts to the bottom with a fiber gasket in between. The aluminum and steel expand and contract at different speeds causing gasket failure.

This gasket failure causes a big vacuum leak into the crankcase causing a puff of blue oil smoke at startup, oil consumption, loss of power, valves pinging under hard acceleration and bad fuel mileage. It can run like crap like this for years.

My Ram used to get average 15-17 mpg combined city/highway with speeds around 65-70. Lately I have been averaging closer to 12mpg. It uses 4 qts of oil between 5K oil changes and doesn't leak any oil on the ground, or smoke visibly.

The gasket fail happens on mine usually around 130K to 160K miles.

If it has not already happened to your motor, it will.
If you own a magnum long enough, it will happen again and again after being "fixed" with a new plenum plate gasket.

There is a permanent solution.
Thank you aftermarket!

An aftermarket engine builder that specializes in Mopars developed a kit that replaces the thin 1/16" steel plate with a 1/4" aluminum plate.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=27091

I have already done this to my ZJ and I am putting this same kit on my 96 Ram 5.2 tomorrow.

#3 Armor and recovery: The Unibody design of the ZJ means there is no frame to hook a chain to when you are stuck.
If you have a tow package, the hitch in the back is a great recovery point. If you don't have a hitch, get one.
The front is a hot mess...nothing to hook on except the axle.

The best solution is an aftermarket front bumper with D-rings that attaches to the unibody in many places with really big bolts. Winch bumper and winch is nice, but a friend with a truck and a chain is often all that is available.

#4. Oil selection: The Magnum ZJ's have a knightmarish exhaust y-pipe that hugs the oil pan and oil filter, cooking your engine oil and causing sludging in the motor which can greatly restrict oil flow and could cause catastrophic engine failure. The ZJ Magnum oil pans actually have an indention in the pan on one side to let the exhaust closer... DUMB! My Ram 5.2 is not like this.

Only use synthetic oil and you will not have oil sludging problems. If you use ANY natural oils, do oil changes every 2000 miles. 5000 miles with synthetics. ( the jug says the oil is good for 15K miles, but I change mine at 5000.)

This plate of "brownies" stuck to the intake plate is from a lifetime of Pennzoil changed every 3000 on a motor with 122K miles.

Stay away from flashy, "Hollywood" upgrades and stick to practical.

Hughes kit, locker, 4.5" short arm, 33's and hit the trail as a happy Jeeper.
Just my .02
Dave

 

This plate of "brownies" stuck to the intake plate is from a lifetime of Pennzoil changed every 3000 on a motor with 122K miles.

WOW! I have a spare 5.9 i tore apart with 200K on it and it didn't look half as bad as that (same in my DD). Stay away from Pennzoil!

 

I haven't updated this recently but i did get an e-locker up front.. 4.10 gears all around, rebuilt 242. rebuilt both axles with a brand new LSD in the rear. Didn't get a chance to fully test her this season but hopefully this year i will be able to.