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2004 4.0 Oxygen Sensors Info

13K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  shoops5  
#1 ·
I just replaced my first set at 135k. Actually, the check engine light came on around 120k, but only in cold weather. The light went off and never came on once the weather got warmer, so I put it off till this winter when the light came on again. (It was the same sensor code both times.)

Unfortuately I have the Overly Redundant model, so I have four sensors, each costing around $70.

Both upstream sensors came loose easy with a 7/8" wrench. If you're doing both at the same time, it's probably easier just to take off both the air-filter-box lid and resonator so you can work the wrench from topside easily. I had to take the resonator off just to get to the connector for the rear sensor which they placed way in the back of the engine, a place that's not as easy to reach as it was back with the original Cherokee.
Upstream front: 56028995AA
Upstream rear: 56028997AA

Both downstream sensors were hard to remove. Use some WD40 and get a 7/8" flare-wrench socket. The deepwell type sensor socket wont work on the rear sensor. The deepwell type tend to slip and round off the sensor nut anyway.
It's possible to do these without jacking up the vehicle, but it's a lot harder. Stock ground clearance really sucks. :(
Downstream front:56028994AA

The downstream rear sensor is the hardest one. The fact that it's buried in behind the exhaust pipes is bad enough, but there's a stupid heat sheild holding the sensor wire to the oil pan.

The heat sheild is basically a gasket that's held in place by little snap washers that are slid up over two bolts that stick out of the bottom of the edge of the oil pan. You have to find a way to get your hands up in there, pop those stupid things off, and then pry the gasket down off the bolts.

Since the sensor wire has to be routed through that spot, which is right next to one of catalytic converters, it's probably best to get that stupid thing off in one piece and get it back on like it was. The wires would probably melt in that spot if left unprotected, and there's no other place to run them.

There was a flimsy foil tag on the sheild that I tore all to crap. It was stamped with a part number, so here it is if you need a new heat sheild: 56041675AA

Now, there's the issue of the proper part number for this sensor. wjjeeps.com says it's 05139021AA, so I ordered that from the cheapest sourse I could find: ebay. The box said 1-05139021AA, but the enclosed sensor was stamped with 56044598AA.

Several internet sites said that this sensor was indeed the downstream rear sensor for an 2004 4.0. I called the parts department of my local dealership, and they said that *1AA was the right one, and that *8AA wasn't in his records.

All four sensors that I bought were Mopar brand, and all four sensors were stamped with NTK's logo.

So upon pulling that sensor from my vehicle, I found that it was also a 56044598AA, which matched the sensor that came in the box.

I'm not sure what the deal is with the part numbers for that last sensor, but it seems that it doesn't matter if you buy 05139021AA or 56044598AA. Either way you'll get a 56044598AA in the box.
 
#3 ·
I didn't measure MPG before hand, but it seemed like I was probably getting around 20 or so. Work has been slow, so I haven't done a lot of driving since then to notice any difference.

I drive real easy and set my cruise to 55 on the interstate. It pisses other people off, but I'm not wasting gas so long as I'm the one that has to pay for it. :goink:
 
#5 · (Edited)
Upstream front: 1/1
Upstream rear: 2/1
Downstream front: 1/2
Downstream rear: 2/2

So yeah, 2/2 is the one with the heat shield.

If the other downstream sensor is also old, I'd do that one at the same time since it's in the way. Take the front sesor off first so you can replace the rear one more easily. Install the new front sensor last.

I had already installed the front one and didn't want to take it back off, so I just worked around it, but it would have been easier without it in the way.

Make sure you can actually break both sensors loose first. You shouldn't have to uplug them just to twist them a little. That'll save you some time if you have to then drive somewhere to get a better tool to break them loose.

Edit: Keep in mind that the part numbers I posted earlier, and this write-up in general, are for the 2004 4.0 only. Refer to http://wjjeeps.com/oxygen.htm for part numbers for other years/models.
 
#7 ·
So I was getting the p0141 and p0138 code. Bank 1 sensor 2 apparently causes both of these codes.

The way the sensors work is measured the oxygen before and after the mini catyletic convertor and if the oxygen is different passing through this triggers the sensors voltage and the check engine light comes on.

I've replaced 3 of the 4 sensors and still have the damn light.
From various sites this is what I've found out
Bank 1 sensor 1, NTK 23142
Bank 1 sensor 2, NTK 23139
Bank 2 sensor 1, NTK 23138
Bank 2 sensor 2, NTK 23141

You can see how these match up to the p codes which the NTK # is stamped on the part. The p0138 says it's bank 1 sensor 2, and that is the front lower sensor, I still get the check engine light.

The only one left to replace is the lower rear part 05139021AA

AND 220$ later. Hopefully this works
 
#10 ·
Just to confirm, did you replace your O2 sensors with the NTK model number above and they worked? I'm looking this info up for my 04 GC Laredo 4.0 and the NTK site gives me the following model numbers:

Bank 1 sensor 1, NTK 23137
Bank 1 sensor 2, NTK 23135
Bank 2 sensor 1, NTK 23132
Bank 2 sensor 2, NTK 23531
 
#8 ·
Update: after spending the money and replaced all 4 sensors and a bunch of frustration the problem was the wiring harness that clips into Bank1 sensor 2 and the wire was torn!!!!!!! So I need to get a new harness and wire it in somewhere along the circuit that routes up along the top of the engine along the spark plug bar, straight 6.

I ended up repairing the wire and that turned the check engine light off after I reset the code and did the drive cycle.

So make sure you are checking the wiring harness and not just the sensor!!

Now I need to do the water pump. Argh
 
#9 ·
Update: after spending the money and replaced all 4 sensors and a bunch of frustration the problem was the wiring harness that clips into Bank1 sensor 2 and the wire was torn!!!!!!! So I need to get a new harness and wire it in somewhere along the circuit that routes up along the top of the engine along the spark plug bar, straight 6.

I ended up repairing the wire and that turned the check engine light off after I reset the code and did the drive cycle.

So make sure you are checking the wiring harness and not just the sensor!!

Argh
Thank you for this information!
 
#11 ·
Here is what I purchased.

Before Catalyst - front most of engine by the other sensor near the top of engine, right side rear I believe
Mopar 56028994AA Oxygen Sensor -$53
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006DX1250/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before Catalyst - towards the firewall near the top of engine, right side rear I believe
Mopar 56028995AA Oxygen Sensor $45.00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006DX13DG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After Catalyst front of engine - $44
Mopar 56028997AA Oxygen Sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006DX15BG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After Catalyst towards rear of engine, behind the *7AA
Mopar 05139021AA Oxygen Sensor -$73.00
https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com...ACKAGE-Rear-Oxygen--After-catalyst--After-catalyst-rear/6680357/05139021AA.html

Use this diagram
http://www.wjjeeps.com/oxygen.htm
 
#13 ·
Thanks again for the help. Between your info, the NTK site, and wjjeeps.com, I was able to get everything figured out.

I only replaced the upstream sensors for now. Bank 1 Sensor 1 Mopar #56028995AA was towards the front of the engine, and Bank 2 Sensor 1 Mopar #56028994AA was towards the rear of the engine. I pulled them just to confirm, for my on peace of mind, the OE manufacturer before buying my replacements and they were in fact both made by NTK.

I got a good deal on a brand new Mopar #56028995AA, I believe about $43, so I went with that (again, made by NTK). I decided to go with NTK branded #23135 to replace Mopar #56028994AA. It was about $12 cheaper than the Mopar branded part and 100% identical with the only thing missing being the OE# stamped on it.

So far its running perfectly, no codes, and I'm looking to get the NTK ones to replace the downstream sensors as well.

By the way, I accidentally switched two of the numbers in my previous post. Per the NTK site, the correct part numbers for the 04 4.0L are:

Bank 1 sensor 1, NTK 23137
Bank 1 sensor 2, NTK 23132
Bank 2 sensor 1, NTK 23135
Bank 2 sensor 2, NTK 23531
 
#12 ·
I always recommend genuine Mopar O2 sensors for best performance and longevity. There's been a lot of problems with aftermarket sensors.

Please PM me or email me at kolak@aol.com if you need anything - I offer excellent discount on Mopar parts :)