planing on doin a axle swap in my 91 yj and was just lookin for a little advise on which of the 2 axles everyone likes better and why? 14 bolt or dana 60, im goin with a ford kingpin dana 60 up front just haven't figured out the rear yet. thanks for all advise...
209444
Depends on what size tires you are running. Anything under 38 I'd go with a 35 spline D60. 14 bolt hangs down a ton.
Oh ok, right outside Louisville. Northern Kentucky here, but have friends and club members all over the state. (check out club link in my sig).
To answer your original question tho, go with the 14 bolt. Or a Dana 70 if you can find one.
To answer your original question tho, go with the 14 bolt. Or a Dana 70 if you can find one.
14 bolt is king of cheap beef and easy to set up gears. You will have to spend some money on a junkyard 60 to get it up to par with the 14 bolt.
i agree with everything jason states, however, i think the tire size and driving style really are the determining factors. two important aspects that have not even been mentioned. if you toodle around on the trail with 36s because they look cool then a 60 will do. if you are long past picking the "proper" lines and like to do it the wrong way, or your wheeling buddies are all on tractor tires and make your 35" tire shod jeep look like a sami in comparison, a bit of overkill might do good in the long run.
i agree realoldjeep, but you missed the point im trying to make. i said "theres just no comparing a STOCK 60 rear to a 14 bolt". now im refering about going out to a junkyard, buying a very commen axle, just upgrading the open diff to a locked one and adding disc brake's. then running it with the stock every thing including the STOCK axle's.
thats were a 14 bolt can outshine a 60. 99% of all dana 60 rear were 1.375" axle shafts. so in order to put a 60 rear axle in the ball park as a 14 bolt you need to spend 300.00 dollars on afater market shafts, a 35 spline carrier/locker to get the 35 spline axle to fit. then of course is the big the killer, the spindle's.
get the wrong axel a small boar spindle 60 and you have to boar them out to fit the 35 spline axle's. yes if your keeping 36/37" tires the smaller shafts will handle those tire's, but why put a limit on what you can do.
so you shave the bottom lips on the 14B and running 37's is a walk in the park, ask yjcrawlr.
now if the OP said lets compare a dana 70U to a 14 bolt then i would say the 70U will outshine the 14B in the ground clearance issue, has factory 35 spline 1.5" axle's and can be found in many vans and truck's. so yes there a commem axle to find then the junkyards like the 14B.
but he asked about a 60 and 14 bolt, thats why a 14B will outshine in the race for the best junkyard axle. you get the axle, add disc brakes weld/lock it and run it. no shaft upgrade, no boaring spindle's, no carrier swap and your safe till you hit 44" tire's. so to me its a perfect rear all the beef straight out of the box.
jason.
thats were a 14 bolt can outshine a 60. 99% of all dana 60 rear were 1.375" axle shafts. so in order to put a 60 rear axle in the ball park as a 14 bolt you need to spend 300.00 dollars on afater market shafts, a 35 spline carrier/locker to get the 35 spline axle to fit. then of course is the big the killer, the spindle's.
get the wrong axel a small boar spindle 60 and you have to boar them out to fit the 35 spline axle's. yes if your keeping 36/37" tires the smaller shafts will handle those tire's, but why put a limit on what you can do.
so you shave the bottom lips on the 14B and running 37's is a walk in the park, ask yjcrawlr.
now if the OP said lets compare a dana 70U to a 14 bolt then i would say the 70U will outshine the 14B in the ground clearance issue, has factory 35 spline 1.5" axle's and can be found in many vans and truck's. so yes there a commem axle to find then the junkyards like the 14B.
but he asked about a 60 and 14 bolt, thats why a 14B will outshine in the race for the best junkyard axle. you get the axle, add disc brakes weld/lock it and run it. no shaft upgrade, no boaring spindle's, no carrier swap and your safe till you hit 44" tire's. so to me its a perfect rear all the beef straight out of the box.
jason.
You will need a traction bar unless your gonna set it up SUA and that is reguardless of which axle you choose. If you go with the 14 bolt you will not have regrets. I can buy one any day of the week for $130 at my local u-pull. I shaved at least an inch or so off the bottom of mine, some people shave alot more. Jason M can probably tell us what you can really shave off the bottom without sacrificing strength. I don't ever think about it's clearance.
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Don't mean to hijack this, but does anyone know if a 14 bolt will have a matching width and bolt pattern to a dana 60 front out of a ford?
ever thought of never sterling ? they have disc brakes and are almost unbreakable except rotating tubes but few welds usually takes care of they sport a 10.5 ring gear could be shaved 3/4" and 35 spline (only bad thing these are rolled splines and if you narrow axle u need new axle old ones are too thin to respline by few thousands )i picked up a set dana 60 front and strling rear for 800us$ ARB makes locker for them but so far posi been working fine for me. From what i read they good up to 44" tires
this is prolly a stupid question but i have already installed extended stainless brakelines from rustys offroad on my factory rearends the d30 and d35, i have found a 14 bolt with disc brake conversion already on it for 350$, and my question is will them brakelines work and is 350$ a far price? thanks
also everyone enjoy derby weekend
also everyone enjoy derby weekend
10.25 and the newer 10.5's are sweat axle to. but im thinking the newer 10.5's are the odd ball metric pattern like the newer dana 60's. as far as strength there up there with the big three ( dana 70 14 bolt and a upgraded 60 ). but a big draw back is there is some after market support but theres not alot guys that can make after market shafts.
not that you will be needing new one's but if you do the pressure angel is very uncommen so finding a maunfactur that can cut them ( or roll them ) them is harder, not impossable but harder.
OP im not sure if the brake will work or not. its been so long since i did my 14 bolt i forget what i used. i know they where probally chevy 1/2 ton line's becasue they match the 1/2 ton calipers. but agin that was around 4-years back when i did them.
jason.
not that you will be needing new one's but if you do the pressure angel is very uncommen so finding a maunfactur that can cut them ( or roll them ) them is harder, not impossable but harder.
OP im not sure if the brake will work or not. its been so long since i did my 14 bolt i forget what i used. i know they where probally chevy 1/2 ton line's becasue they match the 1/2 ton calipers. but agin that was around 4-years back when i did them.
jason.
Went down and did some scoping out, I found at least 15 14bolt rears ready for the taking. I'm gonna consult the bible and see which is the better one to grab next month.
Sadly though, no one ton front axles. O well, you can't win em all I guess.
Sadly though, no one ton front axles. O well, you can't win em all I guess.
I have never seen a Dana 60 front in a upull type yard, only in high price yards and usually the want $400-500 at least. Mine came as a full rolling chassis off of craigslist for $800 after selling off the NP205 and SM465 I had $500 in a set of one ton axles with 4.56s. One of my 14bolts with 4.10s came from the u-pull for $90. And I am sure some guys find 60s at the u-pull or slip the teardown guy some cash to get the heads up on what is coming in. Lots of guys buy the axles and then never get to the project and decide to sell them when they need some cash. At least a few of those all the time here in Colorado. Usually the asking price is in the $1000 to $1200 range for a matched set 60 and 14 bolt or 60 and a 70. The guy I bought mine from was asking $1500 I offered him $800, he laughed. Then He called me a month later and said come and get it my wife wants it out of the drive way.
I had my brakelines made at TSM in Castle Rock Colorado. A little under $100 for all three with the correct fittings.
I had my brakelines made at TSM in Castle Rock Colorado. A little under $100 for all three with the correct fittings.
14B or D60? Bear in mind that there are two versions of the 14B - the 14B Semi-Floating, with a 9.5" ring; and the 14B Full-Floating, with a 10.5" ring.
The SF14B is on par with the D60, although there may be a bit more "performance aftermarket" support for the D60 (it was under MOPAR musclecars and, I believe, some other pax applications. The 14B was trucks only.) The D60 has a slightly larger ring than the SF14B - although I recall the SF14B having the "third pinion bearing" - or the pinion pilot like the Ford 9".
The FF14B is Hell-for-strong, and I'd probably shave and build one if I was building a silly rig - probably knuckle and otherwise modify a Ford 9" to complement it up front (it's been done, I've seen writeups on it.) If I didn't favour Dana axles so much, this would be the way to go.
I just plan on doing D44/D44 because A) I'm building a work truck, not a rock truck. I just need to be able to go anywhere and haul things. B) The D60 becomes overkill for what I'm doing - anything bigger than that just becomes money wasted for my application. Not to say you won't benefit from what you're planning - just that it won't do anything for me.
Ideally, I want to score a pair of D44s - a rear one around 62" wide, and a front HP around 62" (I don't know if one would be available.) That would give me a bit wider footprint than the OEM 60.5" - I could go a bit wider, but I don't want to get tangled up in flares - and I don't plan on running anything bigger than a 31"-33" tyre anyhow (my BFG 31's run me $90-100 as it is, I don't see any reason to spend more than that. Ouch!)
The SF14B is on par with the D60, although there may be a bit more "performance aftermarket" support for the D60 (it was under MOPAR musclecars and, I believe, some other pax applications. The 14B was trucks only.) The D60 has a slightly larger ring than the SF14B - although I recall the SF14B having the "third pinion bearing" - or the pinion pilot like the Ford 9".
The FF14B is Hell-for-strong, and I'd probably shave and build one if I was building a silly rig - probably knuckle and otherwise modify a Ford 9" to complement it up front (it's been done, I've seen writeups on it.) If I didn't favour Dana axles so much, this would be the way to go.
I just plan on doing D44/D44 because A) I'm building a work truck, not a rock truck. I just need to be able to go anywhere and haul things. B) The D60 becomes overkill for what I'm doing - anything bigger than that just becomes money wasted for my application. Not to say you won't benefit from what you're planning - just that it won't do anything for me.
Ideally, I want to score a pair of D44s - a rear one around 62" wide, and a front HP around 62" (I don't know if one would be available.) That would give me a bit wider footprint than the OEM 60.5" - I could go a bit wider, but I don't want to get tangled up in flares - and I don't plan on running anything bigger than a 31"-33" tyre anyhow (my BFG 31's run me $90-100 as it is, I don't see any reason to spend more than that. Ouch!)
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