Developed a small knock and figured with all the money I have invested in this thing to have the motor pulled and rebuilt. Very minor knock but a knock nonetheless. Assuming pistons and everything else checks out what should it cost? Also, If anyones near Chicago that can do this or knows someone let me know.
What should a 4.0 rebuild cost?
xorg
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Developed a small knock and figured with all the money I have invested in this thing to have the motor pulled and rebuilt. Very minor knock but a knock nonetheless. Assuming pistons and everything else checks out what should it cost? Also, If anyones near Chicago that can do this or knows someone let me know.
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10,880 Posts
And there is the issue.
You mention full rebuild, then say "assuming pistons and everything else checks out".
I have been saying for quite a while now that one persons version of a rebuild is not the same as another persons version of a rebuild.
I will not rebuild a motor with the same pistons in it.
ALL my motors get the crank ground, bored out with new pistons and rings, all new bearings, deck the block, pressure test and skim the head(s), new oil and water pumps, new camshaft and lifters, line bored for the main bearings, and so on.
That comes to @$800-900 in machine work alone, and you haven't bought any parts yet.
Rebuild "kits" can be had for reasonable money with name brand parts inside in most cases.
You could always buy a "remanufactured" motor and keep your fingers crossed. 99% of those places will only replace something if it is completely shot though.
Doing it yourself/having it done for you, is the way to go for a rig that you plan on keeping a long time. That way you can spec out the build from start to finish.
Martin
You mention full rebuild, then say "assuming pistons and everything else checks out".
I have been saying for quite a while now that one persons version of a rebuild is not the same as another persons version of a rebuild.
I will not rebuild a motor with the same pistons in it.
ALL my motors get the crank ground, bored out with new pistons and rings, all new bearings, deck the block, pressure test and skim the head(s), new oil and water pumps, new camshaft and lifters, line bored for the main bearings, and so on.
That comes to @$800-900 in machine work alone, and you haven't bought any parts yet.
Rebuild "kits" can be had for reasonable money with name brand parts inside in most cases.
You could always buy a "remanufactured" motor and keep your fingers crossed. 99% of those places will only replace something if it is completely shot though.
Doing it yourself/having it done for you, is the way to go for a rig that you plan on keeping a long time. That way you can spec out the build from start to finish.
Martin
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81 Posts
I bought a crate motor for my XJ from the dealer. I dickered with him and I got him down to $1,100 for a long block. You can't do a GOOD re-build for that price, plus it came with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
a good rebuild should be at least 1300 if you're expecting any quality. i found a shop that would rebuild mine for 1000 but i found a review online that said they started getting engine problems 30K after the rebuild.
I just rebuilt my 4.0, after machine work, master rebuild kit, and additional parts, water pump, alternator etc, I just spent about 1800. Its worth it to me, I did the 4.8L stroker rebuild, a brand new spankin engine with more power? whats not to love.
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9,081 Posts
$1300 - $2000 depending on a lot of variables. Be sure you get at least 2, better to get 3 quotes before making any decision.
And as mentioned, consider a plug and play salvage yard engine. To each their own on these decisions.
A very minor knock may not necessitate a rebuild. The knock could be a bit of piston slap or valve noise; neither of these uncommon with the 4.0
What I recommend for these is to DRIVE IT, and keep an ear to it. If the noise gets no worse, keep driving it. I have seen many, many 4.0 engines run for tens of thousands of miles with a bit of a knock.
And as mentioned, consider a plug and play salvage yard engine. To each their own on these decisions.
A very minor knock may not necessitate a rebuild. The knock could be a bit of piston slap or valve noise; neither of these uncommon with the 4.0
What I recommend for these is to DRIVE IT, and keep an ear to it. If the noise gets no worse, keep driving it. I have seen many, many 4.0 engines run for tens of thousands of miles with a bit of a knock.
Just had mine rebuilt locally. Took it to a shop that I knew was meticulous and used quality parts. $ 2000.00 out the door. Runs like a top - well worth it. However I had done about everything else (trany, clutch, rear end etc...) already so it made sense to do the engine.
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5 Posts
95 4.0 212,000 miles --do some -math -estimate-I live in Minnesota and the hours on this engine with warm ups -just sitting in the jeep-- engine running heater on and then it's 23 years old-red lights -construction zones--ect.ect.--I bet over 100,000 hours --the engine runs strong and is well taking care off--the plan is to replace bearings -main -rod & cam bearings -oil pump -lifters -valves & seals and of course pistons & rings ---timing gears & chain --all pats are standard --- maybe rocker arms and push rods and drive it for 10-15 more years ..I've replaced fuel pump and injectors already--water pump, power steering pump -alternator -belts, hoses plus all the sensors crank post. -cam post sensor -map ,throttle -idle air -plugs and wires with a new coil ...I had only had this jeep 2 years it was a 400.00 parts jeep well ---I gave it all the parts--rotors all the way around pads and shoes & hardware axle seal --front cv joints and hub bearings --tie rods -ball joints --I went to get new tires they were about 60.00 a tire 235 75 15 -and the tire guys say one of the joints is getting bad about 440.00 to replace it -ok went on e bay found all ball joints tie rods new free shipping 32.00 ok--I did them -and steering dampner 30.00 something --good jeep --- no rust -- thing is I'm 60 and this thing is gonna outlast me -I've got about 1500.00 dollars in this jeep and it's priceless........
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10,674 Posts
Core plugs - often overlooked but if you have the engine out and stripped they give you better access for chemical cleaning the inside of the block (also often overlooked) and will save you the headache later, maybe years later, of replacing them. It is little things like this that set a good rebuild apart from a cheap one.
If you do not have access to a good machine shop then a rebuild can become a little more difficult but new rings and bearing shells and a valve grind are easy. The main lesson I was taught when I was young was cleanliness and lubrication on reassembly.
If you do not have access to a good machine shop then a rebuild can become a little more difficult but new rings and bearing shells and a valve grind are easy. The main lesson I was taught when I was young was cleanliness and lubrication on reassembly.
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21 Posts
^^^^This.
My humble opinion, money spent on a junk yard engine, is money wasted. Put this money toward a rebuild. The worst part of the job is removal and installation. Even if the removal and installation were out of the equation, I don't want to spend several hundred dollars on an unknown. If I go through the trouble to pull an engine, it will not go back in without a "complete" rebuild. Just my opinion but as tjwalker said, to each his own.
I just completed mine a few weeks ago. Machine work, master rebuild kit, and replacement head was about $2100. If your head is not cracked, your cost will be less.
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158 Posts
If you are doing this PIECEMEAL like I did for my overbuild and 4.2L swapout to a fully independent MPFI system, expect it to run out past $2600. An in stock replacement should be $1600 for a longblock. If you're planning on doing the build yourself, expect to be considerably more involved in the build process or you're wasting your time and money.
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840 Posts
FYI,
100,000 hours = about 11.5 years of continuous engine running. Considering 12 hours a day of continuous running & a 23 year old vehicle will also put you at 100,000 hours of engine run time.
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5 Posts
Ok maybe 80 to 85,000 hours-that seems be a lot of time on a mechanical device to not have any work done on the inter workings --I just ordered a blower motor with fan cage for 31.00 free shipping today-mine works great-- but it is 23 years old .Upper Minnesota has 6 months of winter weather -any idea how long that fan has operated or how many hours a set of motor brushes last-or how brittle a plastic fan cage becomes with the extreme temp changes . It was 17 below today --for 31.00 preventive maint. no fan means no defrost-no blowing heat-- not my life but a rebuild on a engine only cost as much as or little as you want to put into it.and .depends on how you drive it on how long it will last....
Happy Holidays
Happy Holidays
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840 Posts
I'm not a math major, but doing the math at;
212,000 miles divided by 60mph
212,000 / 60 = 3534 hours
212,000 / 30 = 7067 hours. This is assuming the Jeep was drove no more than 30 mph its entire life.
212,000 / 15 = 14134 hours. This is assuming the Jeep was drove no more than 15 mph its entire life.
212,000 / 5 = 42400 hours. This is assuming the Jeep was drove no more than 5 mph its entire life.
Another perspective.
40 hours in a work week.
88 weeks of work.
3520 hours of work.
How about a 30 year home mortgage for work?
360 months in 30 years
360 months x 4.5 weeks a month = 1620 weeks.
1620 x 40 hours a week = 64800 hours of work to pay off a 30 year mortgage, based on a 40 hour work week. Or, you start the Jeep for 8 hours a day, & let it idle while at work, you will have accumulated 64,800 hours of engine run time.
It's great you are doing preventive maintenance. I personally go for preventive maintenance that would leave me stranded, or would be costly if neglected. Fluid changes for preventive maintenance. Basic & extensive tune up. Otherwise, I'm a fan of don't fix it until its broke, or something better (upgrade) is there to replace it.
Happy Holidays
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5 Posts
Great-- check out these crazy numbers--temps-below zero all week-- Thursday today 4th day of week -wife in cancer treatment-has to be in warm car-so I heat the jeep up a lot only 4 days--the jeep--ran for-- 11 hours---- now this is the wow part 57 miles....and I did the same thing all last winter too.all those hours and.3 more days this week I am keeping track of hours --to miles --about 3 and a half months of winter left here ....lots of gasoline.....later
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840 Posts
Sorry to hear about the family life. Since you have to warm the Jeep up & burn all that gasoline, why haven't you installed an Engine Block Heater? Or even an Oil Pan Heater? Just make sure you have the majority of your oil leaks fixed if you use an Oil Pan Heater.
You should check your glove box area to make sure the Heater Box is sealed correctly. I have a cold / drafty glove box area, but I've been too lazy to pull the dash to fix the issue.
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5 Posts
yeah,Thanks-I do have a block heater -there are no outlets in the parking area -now-when I was stationed in Alaska there were outlets on parking meters they were even on light poles..I cannot take any credit for it -but this thing has the cleanest driest oil pan and I may have just snug the bolts up 1/4--1/2 turn couple years back---not a drop --I gotta tell ya I do really have a fondness for this old jeep --oh forgot to say last weekend 17 below that old blower motor squeeled for a minute then made it to speed -I am happy I got one coming..the jeep tires are a year old today about 6,000 miles on them ...tell me some stuff I am open for input...I do believe in don't fit till it needs it--but--I have to have a base knowlege and faith that I replaced every thing I could...
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