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Exactly how capable is the CJ-7

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ChefturnersCJ

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I have an '85 CJ-7 with a four inch suspension lift, 1.5 inch shackle lift, no body lift, Pro comp nitro shocks, one piece axles out back, heavy duty drag link and tie rod and Hd ends on both, heavy duty ball joints, M.O.R.E steering box mount and brace, heavy duty diff covers front and rear, 33" BFG AT's, 7 inch fender flares with a little body cut. Poly mounts all the way around both body and drivetrain and a full roller AMC 401 under the hood backed up by a rebuilt T-176 and dana300, tom woods CV shafts, 9,500 pound winch.

All that being said, I am curious just how capable of a rig I have built. I have had lifted show rigs in the past that never really saw a lot of offroad time, an occasional trip up a trail here and there. This is my first purpose built 4x4 and I have had it down to Moab twice already. I have run Hells Revenge and Elephant Hill as well as some other "testing" trails to make sure everything was tight.

My wife and I got her to Metal Masher and then chickened out...

With the rig that I built should I be able to tackle just about any trail in Moab as my driving confidence goes up? I guess my real question remains, exactly how capable is a rig like mine?!?!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Matt1981CJ7 said:
If your profile is correct, you don't have lockers, and you are running 2.73 gears in stock axle housings.

I wouldn't get too froggy with it.

Matt
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you are correct that my profile is correct. I am planning a regear here shortly to 4:10 and think of a limited slip carrier for the front and open in the rear. I'm pretty sure this should be the last major mod to my rig.

If I was running the setup I just mentioned....
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
JoonHoss said:
Why do you want/ need that much lift w/ 33's?

First thing I'd do it ditch the shackle lift...

Hoss
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The shackle lift came about because I changed to boomerang shackles front and rear because at full droop I was having issues with inverting the stock shackles and thusly bending leaf springs.

When I sprung for high end leaf springs I did want to crap them up by inverting them yet again so I went to the boomerangs and solved that issue. Problem was that the boomerangs only came with a bit of lift over stock.

I am still running the 33's because they are still virtually brand new, when it comes time to replace them I will be going up to 35s and mud terrains.
 
#6 ·
ChefturnersCJ said:
With the rig that I built should I be able to tackle just about any trail in Moab as my driving confidence goes up? I guess my real question remains, exactly how capable is a rig like mine?!?!
Click to expand...
I think you probably know the answer to that...
ChefturnersCJ said:
My wife and I got her to Metal Masher and then chickened out...
Click to expand...
Sounds like it should be a pretty capable rig, and it should do well on many/most of the trails (main limitation is how comfortable you are with potential body damage). BUT... don't kid yourself into thinking you can do any trail out there. Some of that stuff is for buggies.
 
#8 ·
I've been to Moab 3 times. Did Moab rim all 3, Pritchett trail twice. Did Metal Masher all 3 as well, don't even attempt the Rim and Pritchett without a rear locker. And really, you don't have the wheel base or width to do Pritchett without winching. The last time I did the "Rim" it was with a LS front and a Detroit rear, I took the same Jeep on Metal Masher as well, I wouldn't go with less than that. He!! Gate on the He!!'s revenge trail would require a rear locker as well.

Engine size and Horsepower aren't a factor in Moab, so the 401 is a mute point. It's about gear ratio, for a dedicated trail Jeep and 35's I'd go with 4.56 gears.

Front Detroit trutrac, rear Detroit locker on Moab Rim.

On Moab rim.

I believe this picture was in Area BFE.

One of the hot tub's on Hells revenge (not Mickey's) .









The last 3 pictures were the same point of view from the camera. This same Jeep has a bone stock 304 with over 100k miles, T5/Dana 300, 35" tires with 4.56 gears. It also has 1 piece rear shafts in the AMC 20, and upgraded front axle shafts in the Dana 30.
 
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#9 ·
cj is only as capable as you are wanting to go/push it sir that being said every guy has there setup differently so you wont know what nshe can and cant do until you try
 
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#12 ·
You are getting there, most of those mods are money invested. I like the 401 and T176 combo, but it needs lower ratios in the axles.

Your next purchase will probably be axle related. Lockers front and rear and proper ratios will transform the rimpull on each tyre when deep in a hole. After that you may want to weld and truss the axle tubes to get all that torque down cleanly and change to mud terrains.
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
Spieg8 said:
I think you probably know the answer to that...

Sounds like it should be a pretty capable rig, and it should do well on many/most of the trails (main limitation is how comfortable you are with potential body damage). BUT... don't kid yourself into thinking you can do any trail out there. Some of that stuff is for buggies.
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Oh I know that there are trails in moab that I simply shouldn't go near unless I am watching someone else hahaha!

I would like to run the 4's and 5's out there though!

I haven't ever really gone rock crawling and not sure the rig I built is truly made for REAL rock crawling but I would like to have enough confidence to get on some tippy and vertical angles.
 
#15 ·
CJ7.. without any research.. as I remember the CJ chassis was narrower than the YJ/TJ/JK. The axles were narrower. The frame was narrower.

They widened everything to make the YJ more street friendly... been downhill ever since with "Street Rated"" ranking over "Trail Rated". The Rubi has a few trail friendly features but really.. in 2WD every JKU including the JKUR is built to attract soccer Moms. The big issue today is back space and spacers. Not an issue on an already skinny CJ.

From a starting point... The CJ7 is way better than anything built since 1986. It CAN even flex better with the narrower spring mounts.

Given that trend for the last 30 years I'm scared to think where the new Wrangler might end up.
 
#16 ·
Hmm, with a T-176 and no overdrive.. I'd probably stick to 3.73's or maybe 4.10's. Both being with 35's. That's if you do alot of daily driving. Any deeper gears than that and you're gonna be screaming on the highway... So you could get a deeper lowrange gearset for the dana 300. And having 3.73's would probably be better anyways since the gears are thicker. That 401 I'm sure puts down some serious power stressing parts. Next idea would be beadlocks for airing down more.

I've been running open diffs for years with 33's, its nice because i like to abuse the skinny pedal. And don't have much fear of grenading anything. Perfect Tire pressure is paramount.. I don't know how many TJ's, JK's I see on the trail having difficulty because they're still running street pressure, or only airing down to maybe 20 psi... And i just scoot right on by with no issues as they sit there with mouths hanging open. I run at 7-8 psi now. Nice cushy ride
 
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