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Ball Joint and Control Arm Bushing Recommendations

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TCRay

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am going to replace my ball joints and control arm bushings. My ZJ is 3.5" lifted with 33x12.5's.

Any recommendations on these items? I know there are ball joints like Synergy that are rather expensive. I would like them to have grease fittings on the upper and the lower.

On the control arm bushings, I have read about the polymer ones vs. rubber. I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Spicer for balljoints. Moog is fine for the CA's. I prefer to just swap the arms rather than try to press the bushings out.
 
#5 ·
Spicer ball joints, 120 for the full set at amazon

Just replace control arms if they are stock. It wasnt worth the hassle when we did the bushings in my xj.

I just bought them from amazon as well for about 115 or so.

Check rock auto as well
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the feedback. I did get the Spicer ones from Amazon. The Control Arm bushings look to be stock.

Question on the CA bushings... are they a bear to knock out of the arms? Would it be better to purchase new control arms with the bushings already in?
 
#7 ·
I also went with the Spicer ball-joints from Amazon. I don't really see any advantage in buying the full Spicer 4 ball joint kit for $120 when you can buy 2 of the Spicer 706944X upper/lower ball joint kits at $45/each. Seems like they're exactly the same ball joints w/same hwd and you can save $30.

One side Spicer upper/lower ball joint kit for $45.
http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-706944X-Socket-Assembly/dp/B007N6OHI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439300569&sr=8-1&keywords=spicer+ball+joints

Both side Spicer upper/lower ball joint kit at $120.
http://www.amazon.com/WRANGLER-CHEROKEE-UPPER-LOWER-JOINT/dp/B00UTD76GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1439301140&sr=8-2&keywords=spicer+ball+joints

Plus the 2 upper/lower Spicer ball joint kit if fulfilled by Amazon which makes any returns easier than going through a 3rd party for the Spicer 4 ball joint kit.
 
#8 ·
I believe that you can remove the bushings with a hammer, the right support, and a big punch, but it doesn't look that easy. One thing to consider though, is the overall condition of the CA itself. If the arm is pretty rusty, it's probably best to replace the whole arm. If not, you can pay a local parts place, with a machine shop, to press the bushings in and out. However, you might have to buy the bushings from them. By the time you pay for that labor, you might was well have bought the whole arm.

I recently replaced my original LCA's with Moogs. They may have been $30 per arm, if that. No matter what, you'll want to tighten the replaced arms while the wheels are bearing the weight of the Jeep, not with it on jackstands. Otherwise the bushings will be a bit twisted when "at rest". You don't want that, as it will wear the bushings prematurely. Good luck.
 
#10 ·
TCRay said:
Thanks for all the feedback. I did get the Spicer ones from Amazon. The Control Arm bushings look to be stock.

Question on the CA bushings... are they a bear to knock out of the arms? Would it be better to purchase new control arms with the bushings already in?
Click to expand...
If you are running stock control arms just replace the whole arm,with bushings in them.

We had to use a torch and press to get the bushings out of the xj.

It costs like 30$ for each arm for the lower then,upper is 27$ or something
 
#11 ·
Uniblurb said:
I also went with the Spicer ball-joints from Amazon. I don't really see any advantage in buying the full Spicer 4 ball joint kit for $120 when you can buy 2 of the Spicer 706944X upper/lower ball joint kits at $45/each. Seems like they're exactly the same ball joints w/same hwd and you can save $30.

One side Spicer upper/lower ball joint kit for $45.
http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-706944X-Socket-Assembly/dp/B007N6OHI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439300569&sr=8-1&keywords=spicer+ball+joints

Both side Spicer upper/lower ball joint kit at $120.
http://www.amazon.com/WRANGLER-CHEROKEE-UPPER-LOWER-JOINT/dp/B00UTD76GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1439301140&sr=8-2&keywords=spicer+ball+joints

Plus the 2 upper/lower Spicer ball joint kit if fulfilled by Amazon which makes any returns easier than going through a 3rd party for the Spicer 4 ball joint kit.
Click to expand...
I forgot about that. I noticed that after i bought the full set
 
#12 ·
tjcustomranger said:
I forgot about that. I noticed that after i bought the full set
Click to expand...
Yeah, when I paid $40 for each side last year I noticed the 4 Spicer ball joint kit was $100+ to $120 on ebay.

Kinda reminds me of Walmart where you have to watch them like a hawk. Often they're larger quantity products are more expensive than buying 2 smaller ones equaling the same size. Tricks the consumer thinking bigger must be cheaper.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Question on replacing the control arms. I watched a Youtube video of a guy replacing them in a ZJ. To put an upper back in, he had to use a ratchet strap to help align the bolt holes. Is that common?
 
#14 ·
I've not needed to do that with my arms. Park it on level ground with the tires on the ground in 4lo. Apply the parking brake and you should be able to swap arms one at a time without the axle moving on you.
 
#16 ·
TCRay said:
Question on replacing the control arms. I watched a Youtube video of a guy replacing them in a ZJ. To put an upper back in, he had to use a ratchet strap to help align the bolt holes. Is that common?
Click to expand...
I just did mine and like they said you want the arms with the bushings. I went with all moog.

My fronts where toast and I had trouble getting my front upper holes to align.
The ratchet strap on the axles did not work for me. I used a round punch on the nut side to align the bolt side enough to get it started. Then I used a ratchet strap on the bolt to align the other side of the hole. All others went right back in.

When I did my front track bar I had the same issue bushings was shot so axle was off center.

Good Luck
 
#17 ·
To align upper holes you can use the wheel, pushing the wheel nearest the CA you want to align forward or back (with it on the ground) will rotate the axle. That's what I did to replace my sheared uppers.
 
#19 ·
It was a massive PITA getting the front upper arms to line up with the axle-end bushings on mine, even with the springs out and wheels off. I just had to keep jacking the axle up and down until somehow everything lined up enough to get the bolts through. I'm sure there's a trick to doing it first time, but I've never discovered it, despite trying all the suggestions I got here.
 
#20 ·
Lol, when I did mine I got frustrated because I couldn't seem to accomplish it either. Finally used crabtrap line wrapped around a small sledge pivoted through a tow hook to pull stuff into alignment. It was starting to look like a Wile E Coyote invention off the roadrunner cartoons, but it worked.
 
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