We've all been waiting for Revolution Gear & Axle's TJ axle shafts for a long time and woo hoo, they're finally here! I received this box containing my new rear Dana 44 axle shafts Wednesday and got them installed Saturday. They replaced my rear Superior Axle shafts under warranty, one of which I finally managed to bend after many years of use by dropping off a big boulder in Devil's Canyon in SOCAL several months ago.
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You may remember the superb Evolution Series of axle shafts made by Superior Axle, no axle shaft had a better reputation for many years. They were made from 4140 Chromium-Molybdenum steel... nearly bulletproof.
These new axle shafts from RGA are made from 4340 Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum steel... even stronger and more durable than 4140 that was the previous standard for a high quality alloy TJ axle shaft.
Forged in Los Angeles, RGA makes the only US made axle shafts for the TJ. All the other alloy shafts currently available for TJs are imported. Most of you know of my strong feelings toward buying US made products when possible so I'm grinning that they're made here.
I couldn't have described the differences between 4140 and 4340 any better than how Wrangler Forum member Goodinmw recently described them...
"Probably more than you want to know-
41xx series steels are Chromium-Molybdenum Steels
43xx series steels are Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Steels
"xx" refers to the carbon content40 means 0.38-0.43% carbon content
4140 medium hardenability case
4340 high hardenability case
4140 is used for average size automotive parts- steering knuckles, axle shafts, propeller shafts etc.
4340 is used for large axle shafts and large aircraft parts
Bottom line: properly heat treated and oil quenched 4340 is superior for heavy duty applications…."
That's why RGA decided to go with 4340 for their new line of TJ axle shafts... it's stronger and better.
![Image]()
INSTALLATION:
Many of you know how to install axle shafts so this is written for those who have not yet taken the plunge. And it's easier than you may suspect.
The first thing to know is the axle shafts arrive ready to install which is unique to RGA That means you don't have to press the bearings on after positioning the seal and retainer in place. Just tell them whether you have drum or disk brakes and they'll set them up for you before shipping the axle kit. I've installed 5 rear axle shaft kits over the years and none were ready to install, I had to set them all up and press everything into place on my own. Nice!!
![Image]()
I checked the bearings provided in the RGA kit and was pleased they provided first-quality Timken SET10 bearings. Apply some wheel bearing grease to the Timken bearings and work it inside using the palm of your hand. The bearings probably already had some grease in them but this is just good insurance.
Next it's time to insert the supplied studs into the dual-drilled flanges. These axle shafts are set up for both 5x4.5" and 5x5.5" bolt pattern wheels. Select the inner or outer threaded stud holes to match your bolt pattern and thread them in.
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Be sure to apply Red Loctite to the the stud threads before tightening them down. Use a torque wrench to tighten the studs to 90 ft-lbs.
![Image]()
This is what your axle will look like after removing the old axle shaft and brakes. Once the wheels are removed, you only need to remove two 13mm bolts holding the brakes on, and the four 9/16" nuts that hold the axle into the tube via the axle shaft retainer. Once those are removed, the old axle shaft slides right out.
![Image]()
Ready to slide it in and bolt it up. This shows the correct order and orientation of everything a little better.
![Image]()
The last step, which is optional, is to apply some GL-5 resistant RTV like Permatex Gear Oil RTV or Mopar RTV to the outside edge of the seal. This will help insure your install is leak free since the outer axle shaft seals don't always seal 100% on their own.
![Image]()
![Image]()
HINT: Tip the side you're working on a little higher than the other side to stop gear lube from running out.
Once the new axle shafts are in place, spin the nuts onto the studs that hold the axle shaft retainer in place. The axle shaft retainer bracket has a top & bottom, make sure the skinny side is on top so its holes will match up with the four studs. The nuts are easily threaded onto the recessed studs if you insert them into socket on an extension first.
![Image]()
Final tightening of those four nuts is best done with a torque wrench set to 45 ft-lbs.
![Image]()
That's it, reinstall your brakes and you're ready to mount your wheels and go wheeling!
The fit & finish is everything you'd expect of an ultra-premium axle shaft like is in this kit. It's obvious there were no shortcuts taken and I can't wait to wheel them. And my TJ is sure a lot smoother on the street now that it has four straight axle shafts again lol.
Were they worth the wait? Absolutely, I'd hate to have been in too much of a rush and gone with one of the imports.
You can read more about them at http://www.revolutiongear.com/#!front-axles/cee5 and buy them from forum member Ricky Garza at 4LoParts at http://www.4lowparts.com/shop/product-category/manufacturer/revolution-gear-axle/
You may remember the superb Evolution Series of axle shafts made by Superior Axle, no axle shaft had a better reputation for many years. They were made from 4140 Chromium-Molybdenum steel... nearly bulletproof.
These new axle shafts from RGA are made from 4340 Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum steel... even stronger and more durable than 4140 that was the previous standard for a high quality alloy TJ axle shaft.
Forged in Los Angeles, RGA makes the only US made axle shafts for the TJ. All the other alloy shafts currently available for TJs are imported. Most of you know of my strong feelings toward buying US made products when possible so I'm grinning that they're made here.
I couldn't have described the differences between 4140 and 4340 any better than how Wrangler Forum member Goodinmw recently described them...
"Probably more than you want to know-
41xx series steels are Chromium-Molybdenum Steels
43xx series steels are Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum Steels
"xx" refers to the carbon content40 means 0.38-0.43% carbon content
4140 medium hardenability case
4340 high hardenability case
4140 is used for average size automotive parts- steering knuckles, axle shafts, propeller shafts etc.
4340 is used for large axle shafts and large aircraft parts
Bottom line: properly heat treated and oil quenched 4340 is superior for heavy duty applications…."
That's why RGA decided to go with 4340 for their new line of TJ axle shafts... it's stronger and better.
INSTALLATION:
Many of you know how to install axle shafts so this is written for those who have not yet taken the plunge. And it's easier than you may suspect.
The first thing to know is the axle shafts arrive ready to install which is unique to RGA That means you don't have to press the bearings on after positioning the seal and retainer in place. Just tell them whether you have drum or disk brakes and they'll set them up for you before shipping the axle kit. I've installed 5 rear axle shaft kits over the years and none were ready to install, I had to set them all up and press everything into place on my own. Nice!!
I checked the bearings provided in the RGA kit and was pleased they provided first-quality Timken SET10 bearings. Apply some wheel bearing grease to the Timken bearings and work it inside using the palm of your hand. The bearings probably already had some grease in them but this is just good insurance.
Next it's time to insert the supplied studs into the dual-drilled flanges. These axle shafts are set up for both 5x4.5" and 5x5.5" bolt pattern wheels. Select the inner or outer threaded stud holes to match your bolt pattern and thread them in.
Be sure to apply Red Loctite to the the stud threads before tightening them down. Use a torque wrench to tighten the studs to 90 ft-lbs.
This is what your axle will look like after removing the old axle shaft and brakes. Once the wheels are removed, you only need to remove two 13mm bolts holding the brakes on, and the four 9/16" nuts that hold the axle into the tube via the axle shaft retainer. Once those are removed, the old axle shaft slides right out.
Ready to slide it in and bolt it up. This shows the correct order and orientation of everything a little better.
The last step, which is optional, is to apply some GL-5 resistant RTV like Permatex Gear Oil RTV or Mopar RTV to the outside edge of the seal. This will help insure your install is leak free since the outer axle shaft seals don't always seal 100% on their own.
HINT: Tip the side you're working on a little higher than the other side to stop gear lube from running out.
Once the new axle shafts are in place, spin the nuts onto the studs that hold the axle shaft retainer in place. The axle shaft retainer bracket has a top & bottom, make sure the skinny side is on top so its holes will match up with the four studs. The nuts are easily threaded onto the recessed studs if you insert them into socket on an extension first.
Final tightening of those four nuts is best done with a torque wrench set to 45 ft-lbs.
That's it, reinstall your brakes and you're ready to mount your wheels and go wheeling!
The fit & finish is everything you'd expect of an ultra-premium axle shaft like is in this kit. It's obvious there were no shortcuts taken and I can't wait to wheel them. And my TJ is sure a lot smoother on the street now that it has four straight axle shafts again lol.
Were they worth the wait? Absolutely, I'd hate to have been in too much of a rush and gone with one of the imports.
You can read more about them at http://www.revolutiongear.com/#!front-axles/cee5 and buy them from forum member Ricky Garza at 4LoParts at http://www.4lowparts.com/shop/product-category/manufacturer/revolution-gear-axle/
) so I have been a little cautious about that kit.
