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javelin390

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am building my own custom Tummy-tuck because I don't like the prafab ones on the market. I am building it so I don't rely on the belly-pan as my transmission support. My question is regarding the transmission mount I haven't been able to find much good advice about how to allow for the torque of the engine. The threads that I have been able to find almost all of them mount a heavy steel plate directly to the transmission and then weld that to a bar that goes frame to frame with bushings on the ends where it mounts to the frame. Does this allow enough movement to accommodate the torque of the engine? In my opinion it wouldn't.
I know there are some low profile transmission mounts available aftermarket but I haven't seen any that cushion at the mounting point of the transmission.

If you have built your own similar to what I'm explaining, please let me know how it works or what you would do different.
 
The Savvy under armor uses a crossmember for the t-case mount and has a seperate skid that attaches to the crossmember.
Yep. Their new transmission mount bolts to bottom of transmission and then to the front of that new crossmember. Where it bolts to the new crossmember there are bushings embedded in the crossmember that surround those mounts (not bushings where crossmember mounts to frame as OP describes, although I understand the style he is describing).
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
My buddy has the Nth degree lift I like the setup but haven't been able to find the mount separately. Thanks for the info on Karmar Rubber I have been looking at their website it looks like they should have something that will work.

I appreciate all the input regarding mounts.

I think my question is; do I need to go to all the effort to do this or will the bushings by the frames be enough?
I know there are a lot of people that have done what I am describing have you had any problems?
Does someone know what the specs are on how much movement is needed at the transmission mount.
 
Nth degree was purchased by AEV. You can get the low profile mounts from AEV for about $100. I bought one to build my own flat skid. The mount kit was very complete with isolators and hardware. They also have an exhaust hanger built into it, which helps take out some of the guess work.

However, I have the 42RLE and NV241 in my jeep---the dimensionally largest tranny/TC combo offered in a TJ from the factory. I was disappointed to see in my mock-ups that the AEV mount only saves me maybe an inch on this combo---I think mounts they offer for other combos are considerably more low profile. However, I think it is a decent design. I'm going to muck around with it in the next few weeks and see if I can get the crossmember built.

Blaine's design (savvy) is pretty damn smart. I may end up caving and buying one if I can't get mine to work sufficiently.

You'll probably need a MML as well if you are going to a toally flat skid. But it's been done and isn't all that hard. You're spot on about the designs that bolt hard to the tranny with the bushings on the end. They are asking for a cracked case.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks counselor, I already have the MML and a 1" BL so going flat should be a little easier. I like Savvy's design also but I can't justify $1,200. When I'm done with everything including the SYE and rear track bars, front skid, new drive-shaft and tummy-tuck I won't have much over $500 into it.

I have already talked to someone at the place mentioned earlier Karma Rubber and explained what I was doing. They seem to be very helpful and somewhat knowledgeable with the setup I am trying to do and it sounds like it will only be around $20 for the bushings.

Now I don't want to sound like a cheapskate but when I can save on things like this it allow me to spend in other areas... (well I guess I am a cheapskate) lol
 
sounds like the Under Cover Fabworks LOPRO mount is what you're looking for. Just add about $15 to the cost to cover a Harbor Freight grinder to make it work. Overall I'm happy with mine, after I upsized the thru bolt to eliminate play.
 
Thanks counselor, I already have the MML and a 1" BL so going flat should be a little easier. I like Savvy's design also but I can't justify $1,200. When I'm done with everything including the SYE and rear track bars, front skid, new drive-shaft and tummy-tuck I won't have much over $500 into it.

I have already talked to someone at the place mentioned earlier Karma Rubber and explained what I was doing. They seem to be very helpful and somewhat knowledgeable with the setup I am trying to do and it sounds like it will only be around $20 for the bushings.
If it is the same guy I spoke with, he is a pretty knowledgeable guy. Has he told you that you can get his bushings through McMaster-Carr yet?
 
Mc Master Carr 64875K241

Bolt-Down Vibration-Damping Mount, Standard, 3/8"-16 Thread, 210 lb. Capacity about $8 each

Karman Rubber part # K695-32
 
Mc Master Carr 64875K241

Bolt-Down Vibration-Damping Mount, Standard, 3/8"-16 Thread, 210 lb. Capacity about $8 each

Karman Rubber part # K695-32
That's what I used as well. I have had them on there for 8 years with out any issues.
 
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