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Unread 11-26-2009, 11:38 PM   #16
baxy
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bit better pic it illistrate seal if you check this drum when you take it apart you will not feel ant lip or edge at all that is what is causing the late 3rd or the slipping 3rd


direct piston
lube seals and drum liberally


this one just pushes in no tools needed


return springs


foot operated clutch spring compressor


push down retainer and install snap ring


make sure it is fully seated behind tabs


assembled first steel installed


fiber (note I forgot to mention the thin fibers are for the rear drum and the thicker ones are for the front drum )


pressure plate and wave snap ring
this drum has 4 fibers in it most 46RE transmissions come with 3 disc drums
some can be made to accept 4 discs like I did with this one it used to have a really thick pressure plate so I subsituted it for a thinner one made for 4 discs this mod gives you 33% more clutch surface area the clearance can be quite loose here Ilike to run it with about .035" but I have seen them as high as .060" without a problem


install front drum onto rear drum twisting and spinning until it seats all the way down


install into transmission twisting and spinning until everything drops into place, when you think you have it down lift slightly and let it go you should hear a sharp thud like it hit bottom firmly

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Unread 11-26-2009, 11:53 PM   #17
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front drum sitting properly into sun shell


front band (2nd gear) band strut and anchor this band is the HD version from a diesel 100% direct replacment


drop band over input shaft wrap it around front drum and install strut and anchor


anchor


screw in adjuster just enough to hold band in place




pump gasket and alignment pins (cut off 5/16 bolts)


cleaned pump ready to assemble


diesel pump bushing (holes hold extra oil)


notice puzzle lock in bushing
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:29 AM   #18
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not small cut out in pump body and puzzle lock .... make sure they DO NOT line up


drive bushing in with appropriate driver


stake bushing into cutouts ... if puzzle lock was lined up it just wouldnt work out if you tried staking it


close up of stake


pump seal packed with grease and green locktite on outside diameter


seal installed using same driver as bushing


install pump gears well lubed this one I packed them with grease mostly because these transmissions may sit on the shelf for months also the grease helps create the initial suction to pick up oil when started for the first time


torque stator bolts to 21 ft/lbs using blue locktite again, pump washer installed at this time also pump O-ring


rings installed ends interlocked


lube O-ring and rings also stator inner diameter, drop into pump should take moderate pressure to pop into the case replace washers on the pump bolts and torque to 21 ft/lbs


grip with vise grips gently lift up and down checking for endplay ... remembr I installed an extra shin into the input shaft this trans came out to about .005" I like them tight as it increases seal ring life
some of these transmissions run quite a bit of endplay up to .035" sometimes a bit more
IF you have none and didnt install an extra shim you mostl ikely have a thrust bearinf upside down in the OD unit or the input shaft rear clutch is hung up on one if the clutch plates
if you are loose and want to re adjust pull pump then input shaft and change the shim in the input shaft it sometimes takes a couple tries to get it right
a little extra effort here will make your trans last alot longer
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:38 AM   #19
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get the trans up on the bench and adjust bands, I suggest you use the maunal ... I don't I use experience and have a way that I find works best

this is the low/rev band adjuster turn the center bolt to adjust and tighten nut to lock it in place


pry the lever up and down looking at the travel I like to end up with about 3/8" travel with light pressure on the screw driver


front band (2nd) adjuster tighten center bolt to adjust and tighten nut to lock it in place


pry with screw driver same as low band and note travel I like 1/4" travel
the clearance here is for band clearance to the drum ... obviously too tight and the band will burn ... too loose and we will have timing and durability issues ... this adjustment also sets the volume for the direct clutch accumulator... part od the function of the servo is to act as the direct accumulator the trans hast to use direct oil to push off the band this is a simple way chrysler uses to reduce tie up between gears ... ie the band does not release unless direct oil overcomes 2nd oil if there is a massive leak in 3rd somewhere the band doesnt release and you stay in second
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:40 AM   #20
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ok hopefully I can get some time to take pics of the VB and continue this tutorial
if not tomorrow I will get some pics maybe from a spare VB sooner or later
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:41 AM   #21
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it took longer to do this write up than it does to rebuild the whole transmission !!!! LOL
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Unread 11-27-2009, 07:33 AM   #22
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so far it's exactly the same as a 44re rebuild and you can do the same upgrades.
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:23 PM   #23
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VALVE BODY start by installing clip supplied in shift kit , if your not installing shift kit then watch for the steel ball that will fly away when you remove rooster comb


remove 3 screws holding pressure reg spring retainer on take not of where the short one comes out of
take note of which way the valves come out

now you can remove the E-clip from the rooster comb and remove it and the TV rod


remove pipe on left side of VB remove GOVENOR body remove solenoids
remove all screws holding VB together


remove OD accumulator and spring notice spring is broken




remove plate ** if your VB has this check ball take not it is smaller than the rest and it must be reinstalled **




not checkball locations the shift kit has a diagram of this so don't be too worried about it


remove screws from plate


note 2 checkballs we will only be rinstalling one (with or without shift kit)


TV valve train


here are the new shift kit parts and the new electrical
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:37 PM   #24
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That's an excellent walkthrough, would it also apply to the 46RH?
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:40 PM   #25
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drill .050" hole thru casting at this point


using tool and 3/16 drill bit cut a groove in casting


this is what it should look like


drill seperator plate 3/16 here for HD use ** the kit does not recomend drilling here on JEEPS *** If it was mine and I was running big tires and more power I would drill if it was my daily driver probably not


drill 3/16 all models


drill 1/8 if hole is here if no hole dont drill one (I've never seen a plate without it)


if there are 2 holes here drill smaller one 1/8 if only one hole the kit will tell you to drill it out to a bigger size I think 3/16 or you can just leave it


drill .093" optional HD


clean and install just the one checkball shown


assemble plate with new filter and stiffener plate try to line up the hole best you can


remove 3 screws in this piece


replace purple spring with black from kit
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
That's an excellent walkthrough, would it also apply to the 46RH?
the RH is very similar the OD unit is different as it contains the hydrsulic govenor assembly
the 3 speed is the same and the VB is a bit simpler
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Unread 11-27-2009, 12:52 PM   #27
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ok remove cover here and pull out plug and spring this may be different colors


remove E-clip


remove valve


replacement valve ** not needed or supplied if your VB does not have the black plastic GOV sensor **


lube and reinstall new valve


replace E-clip then spring and plug on the other side reinstall cover


remove cover we are going to upgrade to a stronger clip


new clip on the left notice it is thicker these love to break


all the checkballs back in place and guide pins installed


TV valve needs to be shortened ... if this valve is worn steel shortened replacements are available


shortened as per gauge supplied in kit


replacement green spring ** reuse orange spring if you want to keep your trans a smooth as possible **


start stacking pieces of VB ontop using guide pins to keep alignment *** DON'T forget the little checkball if equipt ****

Last edited by baxy; 11-27-2009 at 02:16 PM..
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Unread 11-27-2009, 02:26 PM   #28
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spacer plate


keep stacking


IF you have the black plastic filter this screw needs to go in this hole it is longer and has a washer under head (it's actually a filter screw )


connector pipe bend tabs to keep it in place
torque all screws to 40 in/lbs


4th accumulator new spring included in shift kit, install cover


new manual valve supplied in kit along with the groove we made allows this trans to fill the torque and lube the trans in park (which means we can now check the fluid level in park)


rooster comb install the steel ball and spring if it ejected when you took it apart ** make sure you hook it onto the manual valve ** I might have learned that from experience !!!


TV rod or lever pusher thing


new seal reinstall the washer and E-clip


make sure it is assembled like so


next I place VB in the vise with a rag like so


pressure reg valve the good ones are made of steel , the aluminum ones are the ones that make the anoying buzzing when in reverse, you can buy replacement steel valves from the dealer or you can buy a SONNAX one but if you use the sonnax valve DO NOT drill the .050 hole in the VB casting the sonnax valve has it built into the valve


converter charge ** make sure these valves are installed correctly they can go in upside down**


springs *note here is the stock PR spring on right * this would be considered standard duty
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Unread 11-27-2009, 02:31 PM   #29
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I have no idea what the **** your doing but good job!
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I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
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Unread 11-27-2009, 03:03 PM   #30
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here is the PV spring retainer and the adjust for the main line pressure
this is the stock adjustment for the stock spring what you looking for is just shy of 5/16" gap here (considered standard duty)


shift kit spring


when using BLUE spring this is the adjustment for HD ** you can start winding up this adjustment to a max of 5/16" gap BUT it WILL be rude*** I don't even adjust it up when I build diesels that are chipped


couple pics of assembled retainer



ok take VB out of vise and start installing wiring harness this end likes to get damaged when you unplug it so it is good to replace it it comes assembled with new solenoids


screw down solenoid block


here is the GOV body you would find starting in about 1999.5 models with the black plastic sensor ** not interchangable with previous gold sensor**


install sensor if this was the early one you would flip it over and install the metal retainer clip


install GOVENOR into bracket


intall bracket and GOV onto body clipping the sensor into place like so


different style govenor solenoid (origional on left) this new one is said to be more resistant to contamination
there is a body and GM force motor aftermarket kit to replace all this assembly and is said to be the ANSWER to all GOVENOR problems BUT the kit is about $300 (rip off) and makes it costly to include in our units


install to VB and remeber to plug in wiring harness


installing park rod


wiggle jiggle twist output shaft


installed you will feel it POP past the park pawl


remember spring at accumulator


start the park rod into the rooster comb as you get the VB into place


remeber E-clip ** try not to drop this into trans that makes your day kinda crappy **
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