Thanks for this. I think this worked, only time will tell

 

Thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!!!

I LOVE Jeepforum.com. You guys are fantastic. Blinkers & hazards were working intermittently, then stopped altogether. Found this trhead; Took dashboard apart, found relay instantly, heated up each joint with soldering iron, WORKS LIKE NEW!!! THANK YOU!!!

 

Thanks for this great cost saving information, I will use it this weekend.

 

I performed this repair tonight for the same issue that dozens of folks have reported.

Remove Phillips head screw from the side of the lower fascia. (Accessible with door open.)
Remove 2 10mm bolts from lower dash.
Lift up & remove the dash piece that sits under the speedo lens.
Remove 2 Phillips head screws securing the lower fascia and remove fascia.
Access to the relay is still not perfect but is the only way you can begin to take it out.
(Without removal of the described above parts, you can touch it and wiggle to test that the relay is the actual problem it but you won't be taking it out.)

I also took off my plastic steering column cover with a single Phillips screw from underneath the column but I may not have needed to...The two halves of the cover snap apart & together at re-assembly.

And don't bother wiggling it and testing your flasher to find that you "solved" your problem. You didn't, and it will go right back to not working when you really needed it to work.
Sort of like thinking you fixed your brake lights by adjusting the metal tabs on the socket...

When you do pull out the relay, remember that next you are going to be taking it apart. Mark it so that you know how it goes back in by identifying the top and also mark a blade of the relay so you know which goes on top. When I said access isn't perfect (above) you'll be happy you were trying to put it back together the right way and then back in it's position on the board the right way...the first time.

No question that there was a crack in the solder. (My driver's side turn signal would work intermittently and I could kick the fuse box area and it would start working again.)
I have a 7x loupe that clearly showed 2 solders were cracked at the blade side. (My pics were all fuzzy.)
A little heat and a piece of solder (smaller than a pin head) and it appears to be all good.

Shout out to the Compcrasher!! (This is the reason I'm a lifetime supporter.)

 

I performed this repair tonight for the same issue that dozens of folks have reported.
No question that there was a crack in the solder. My driver's side would work intermittently and I could kick the fuse box area and it would start working again.
I have a 7x loupe that clearly showed 2 solders were cracked at the blade side. (My pics were all fuzzy.)
A little heat and a piece of solder smaller than a pin head and it appears to be all good.

Shout out to the Compcrasher!! (This is the reason I'm a lifetime supporter.)

I'm having the same issue, suspect I have a crack similar to yours. I'll see if I can get some better pictures when I eventually get to repairing mine.

 

I am having the same issue also I need to give this a try.

 

Did it yesterday. First time I tried to guess which joint to solder and put it back in. Still didnt work so I took it back out and did them all and it worked like a charm thanks for the help!

 

Hey! I grew up in Collinsville! Went to MVHS.

 

Hey! I grew up in Collinsville! Went to MVHS.

Small world. Ever get back this way?

 

Tried this again on my Jeep last night as I've been having issues with my turn signal recently (particularly the right one being stuck on after flashing a random number of times). I had actually forgotten that I fixed this the same way a few years ago too. I remembered when I started researching the problem again.

At first, everything seemed to work fine, the turn signals worked and the hazards worked etc. But, then I went to turn right and my right signal stuck on and would not turn off. Previously, I was able to get the right signal to shut off by flipping the left signal on quickly or turning on the hazards momentarily. Not this time, nothing would turn the right signal off. I had to pull into a parking lot and remove the flasher. I re-inserted it and things again appeared to work fine. That is, until I drove into work this morning and my right signal was stuck on for about the last 2 miles of my drive to work. Thankfully, I had the forethought to leave the dash fascia pieces off until I was sure the issue was solved, so I just had to reach up and yank the flasher out.

I'm guessing I might have screwed something up during the repair this time, possibly bridged a connection, or maybe overheated something and fried it. In any case, I ordered a new flasher online (found a decent price at rockauto.com) and we'll try that. I recall replacing the flasher when I first bought my WJ back in '09. I wish I'd have kept it around so I could try to fix that one instead of having to buy another new one. Hopefully this one lasts a bit.

 

Great info. Thanks guys!

 

I did the same to my flasher with oem part# 468613050732 / 2 (4) x 21w - 12v and now and then it will stay solid but only for the right turn.

4.7 HO

 

Just did this yesterday.

 

Thanks for the post. My left rear flasher wasn't working. Tried new bulbs and making sure connectors were clean first. I tried to solder mine, but still wouldn't work. So I went to the junkyard. They didn't have any WJ's but pulled one from a 2000 (I think) Grand Caravan. Same part number and much easier to get to (no tools needed). $3 at the junkyard, and I'm golden. Thanks again!

 

im having some issues with my 03 overland.

for the last month or so, when it rains(or so it seems), my left directional will not work at all, right will work just fine.

ive found that if i turn my hazards on and shut them right back off, the left directional will work again. sometimes all it takes is one time turning the hazards on, and off. other times i have to do it 2, or more times.

anyone else ever have this problem? could water be getting into the cab, or could it be something else?

 

compcrasher86

I have solder the pins / blinkers work left turn works right turn doesn't / checked solder no bridging that I can see / I need to test relay

 

need to pay attention more

thank you for the reply / I have located the numbers they your right in front of me on the diagram of the fuse box with the relays and fuse location

 

question regarding the soldering process

I am a total soldering noob! Been having this turn signal issue for months and for some reason it just dawned on me today to check forums and what do you know! I'm not alone! Anyway, I can tell from OP's photos he definitely adds solder to the far left connection... but how far do you go or not go? Or when I actually take it out will it be sort of obvious? I plan on going after work today and getting a cheap soldering iron at Walmart and trying to take care of this (finally) tonight! Thanks for the info and any additional help!

 

Get a large magnifying glass to best see what needs to be fixed. the break will be obvious.

 

Well I painstakingly went through all the steps last night... Of course took me much longer than originally anticipated - getting to the relay panel proved to be a REAL problem for me. I'm thinking the original owner of my Jeep must have had some work done or something because once I got panels off, I had extra wires that I'm sure no one else has and was totally missing the bottom panel that covers the fuses! Anyway, it proved impossible for me to lower the relay panel more than an inch max so I had to awkwardly reach in to get to the flasher relay, but eventually was able to pry it off.

The flasher relay was a whole other issue in an of itself. I had a very difficult time getting the casing off of the actual relay. I finally made progress by JAMMING a screwdriver down the side and prying it out - which in turn totally snapped most of the solder albeit for two connections in the corner! So after repairing all the connections to the best of my ability I plugged it back in to test...

Got a little weird here: At first my left blinker (which for months has been the issue, not working at all) worked perfect. But suddenly the right blinker (which never had any issues before) was blinking but very rapidly. So I took the relay off and had thoughts of going and adding more solder before I thought I was only going to mess up everything I just accomplished trying to pry the cover off again. So after a couple minutes I reinstalled the relay. Same results. I tried the hazards and they were normal. THEN after testing the hazards, my results flip flopped! The left was blinking rapidly and the right was back to normal!

I concluded that I was better off than where I was originally so reattached all the panels and am going to live with it for now. In retrospect (if I ever get around to messing with it again) when I go to test I will obviously NOT put the cover back on until I'm satisfied. I guess I will have to eventually get back in there since my whole intention was to fix this before inspection so as the mechanics don't steal my money.

SO, anyone have any thoughts on my strange symptoms? Also, thanks for the info OP and everyone else, since as mentioned, I'm better off now than before for sure!

 

Yes...that you had that much pain/difficulty getting the unit out, then cover off and damaged it further, just get a new flasher module. Be done with it. NAPA has them from what I've heard.

Think it was a difficult unit to remove with the cover on...try removing with the cover off.
Also, your profile says you have a ....3.7L V6. (It might confuse folks.)

 

Thanks for pointing the engine mishap out! Been doing some extensive work on my Dodge Dakota as of late and have its specs on my mind :facepalm:

And I'm not sure what the deal was with my cover. But you're saying you had to remove yours and it had no cover? Once I was finally able to reach the relay, pulling it out of the panel wasn't the issue, just getting to it and of course removing the cover.

I checked napaonline - they don't appear to have it. Might give them a call and check tho so thanks for that.

 

Cool.
The point about the cover is that removing from the block is facilitated by being able to grab the block (cover) and pull it. With the internals exposed, there's much less to grab and further damage is likely in the process.
Mine had a cover and removing the cover was easy. Put it in a vice upside down and use 2 small screwdrivers to lightly pry up the assembly.


If still no luck at the parts store, the junkyard is next. Just be aware that the same issue may appear at some point.

 

Quick update:

Went to drive the Jeep this morning for the first time since sort of repairing the flasher relay. Little bit of dew on the windshield so I flicked the mist wiper control and nothing happened. In fact the wipers wouldn't work at all. I got out to check that the headlights were still working as when I spun the handle to turn on the wipers and they were. So didn't make it 20 feet before I turned around and decided against driving it. Also noticed when I went to lock the Jeep with the fob the horn didn't honk like it normally would...

SO - I realize I most likely broke the flasher relay with my "repair" the other day (even though the flashers are working!), but would the broken FLASHER relay be contributing to these other problems? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would think that the flasher relay should only effect the flashers? Or is it possible that maybe another relay may have been damaged/came loose etc when trying to fix the flasher relay?

Any help with this would be appreciated! Plan on ordering a replacement flasher relay, but will hold off for now until I hear from others to see if my issues lie deeper.

 

Same issue guys but only with the left turn signal. 2000 Limited, pulled the relay out but to my naked eye I see no cracks, I just need to add solder around the 9x pins toward connections? See attached.

Also going to be doing blend door mod later next week, should I just leave the driver dash apart for now?

 

I know this is an oldie but I really have to thank the OP for the great writeup and pics. I don't recall how I got to this thread from the several others about driver side or left signal not working. The key point here is signals (front, rear, and the dash display). If the problem is only the rear and the bulb is good, there is an excellent youtube video that solved my problem in 10 minutes. The tang in the lens assembly has gotten hot enough to melt the plastic that holds it in contact with the bulb socket. If both front and rear are not working but emergency flashers all work, you likely have the flasher problem. I had diagnosed the problem was in the column, probably the multi-function stick/switch, and I thank my stars for this forum!

I have an '02 Overland (20 years old now and original just failed last Friday night) I took the flasher to work (where we have surface mount component capabilities). Looking through that scope the cracks were plainly visible on the left-most solder joints in the row closest to the prongs (I had been unable to see them with 3 different magnifying glasses). Trust me, they are there. I heated each one and added a pinch of fresh solder (more for the flux than anything). Back at home, I put it back in and everything is working perfectly!

Disconnect your negative battery cable - seriously. If you don't and the fix doesn't seem to have worked (especially if you now have no signals or emergency flashers), you blew fuse #4. Top row, 2nd from left (1&2 are empty) 15A. FSM does not ID this fuse as signal or flashers, I think it was just B+

Thanks again to compcrasher and Double E, job complete and for $ZERO