If you got a widetrack front axle, it isn't a Waggie 44. Only the Cherokee Chief and J-pickups had widetracks.

 

I thought the same thing but it is a 4 door and I didn't think Cherokee was a four door model. The emblems also said Wagoneer. It had the four speed manual transmission and a Dana 20 transfer case. I am not all that familiar with FSJ and their model break downs. But I do know it is a wide track.

 

You will probably need this info:
From Jeep Forum and Billavista Threads - D44 Front shafts:
Make cuts that get you to one of these axle shafts to avoid having to have a custom shaft built.

71-77 BRONCO (Length 18.31 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 38809
71-77 BRONCO (Length 27.94 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 38810
total 46.25

78-79 BRONCO (Length 18.91 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 39143
78-79 BRONCO (Length 33.91 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 39144

68-79 F-100 (Length 18.91 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 39143
68-79 F-100 (Length 33.91 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 39144

75-79 F-150 (Length 18.91 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 39143
75-79 F-150 (Length 33.91 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 39144
total 52.82
WMS to WMS 65.5"

80-92 WAGONEER (Length 15.8 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 39459
80-92 WAGONEER (Length 32.12 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 39461
total 47.92
WMS to WMS = 61.5"

74-79 WAGONEER (Length 33.19 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 39339
74-79 WAGONEER (Length 14.69 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 38808
total 47.88

71-80 Scout II (Length 14.78 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 38808
71-80 Scout II (Length 32.91 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 38790
toal 47.69

73-78 Chevy D44 (Length 36.13 in.; 30 Spline;Driver Side) 39529
73-78 Chevy D44 (Length 18.31 in.; 30 Spline;Passenger Side) 38809
total 54.44

03-06 TJ Rubicon D44 (Length 31.88 in; 30 spline)
03-06 TJ Rubicon D44 (Length 16.90 in: 30 spline)

 

Someone must have swapped those parts in. The Waggie never got widetracks or a four speed/D20 from the factory.

There were four door Cherokees. I owned a '76 at one time.

 

Thanks gentleman. Fogster, basic question. What is best way to measure for the axle? Take the original and and insert it, or use a tape measure and stick it into the tube? How much do allow for the the knuckles? Measure the current axle and measure the tube and then figure the cut using those measurements?

 

I can only speak for how I cut an axle, but I put it on jackstands and use a plumb bob to make reference marks on the garage floor where the outer end of the axle tube is, where the edge of the casting is at the diff where the tube enters it, and then end of any point of the inner knuckle. Just have to reference those same points when you make the cut and then re-assemble the axle after the cut.

Just as an example, if the distance from the end of the diff casting to the outer end of the tube is 30" and I want to cut 4" out of it I will remove the inner knuckle, measure 26" from the end of the diff casting and that's where I make my cut. When the inner knuckle is re-installed I pound it back on so that my reference point is 4" inboard of where it was prior to the cut.

Hope that makes sense.

Keep in mind that the axle should be centered under the vehicle and the passenger side is fixed as it's part of the casting. If you remove 4" from the long side it will be centered and the passenger side perch will land correctly under the spring with the spring in it's stock location. Any cuts less than 4" on the long side and you'll have to shift the passenger perch outward to keep it centered.

 

The way I measure is to use the axle shaft data. You need the shaft lengths for your wide axle. When I know what the shaft length for my current axle is and the length of the shaft I want to fit after I cut it. I just take the difference in those two shaft lengths and cut that much out of the tube. I'll see if I can find the shaft lengths of a Cherokee Chief front D44.

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/889403-77-jeep-wide-trac-axle-shaft-specs.html

74-76 Cherokee Chief front axle inner shaft lengths
left 35.25"
right 16.62"

77-79 Cherokee Chief front axle inner shaft lengths
left 35.25"
right 16.63"

 

Obviously I misunderstood the question. Doh.....

x2 on comparing the stock axleshaft lengths to the possible donor lengths if you're looking to use a non-custom axleshaft.

It still has to be centered though.

 

I plan on putting it under the frame and see where it lines up after I get the short side lined up then I plan on measuring the long side and see how much needs to come off. I will try to get the measurement close to a standard axle but if not then I will send it to Moser and get it cut to length and re-splined.

 

It's actually pretty easy to figure out the long side for centering. The difference in spring pad widths is exactly 4", so whatever you take off the short side the long side has to have that number plus 4" added to it.

 

Most Dana 44 axle shafts do not have a constant diameter down the length of the shaft. They have a smaller diameter just inside where the splines are. I've heard it called a turkey neck. A standard Dana 44 axle shaft can't be cut to any arbitrary length and re-splined. The indention at the end of the splines puts limitations on cutting and re-splining a standard shaft. For this reason, if I were going to cut a front axle I would make each side fit a standard axle shaft from that list above.

 

CSP and Foggybottom first off I want to thank you for your help. One reason I enjoy this forum is the willingness of others to share their wealth of knowledge. Here is what I plan to do let me know if you see any flaws in my plan. 1) Leave the passenger side (short side) as is and grind the spring perch as outlined in other posts for caster angle. 2) Cut the drivers side (long side) to allow the installation of a Wagoneer shaft that is 32.12 inches. The current axle is 35.25 inches this would be a difference of 3.13 inches. Allowing for an inch to go into the knuckle I should cut the axle 2.13 inches. That would give me a WMS of 62.37. Does that sound okay? I want to use the Waggy axle because it will match the 6 lug Isuzu rear end that I'm installing.

 

I don't understand the "allow an inch for the knuckle" part. If you want to swap out a 35.25" shaft for a 32.12" shaft you need to either cut 3.13" out of the tube or move the knuckle in 3.13". There is no need to make any allowance for the knuckle. How do you plan to shorten one side?

 

The axle tube goes into the knuckle 1 inch. I am going to grind the weld and remove the knuckle as outlined by Mr. N. Once that is done I am going to cut the tube. Then I am going to replace the knuckle and weld it on. I want to use the passenger side knuckle to help with alignment for caster. My big concern is the difference between the passenger side length of the Waggy and the Dana 30. I'm trying to avoid cutting both sides. DOH Just answered my own question the axle tube is already in the tube so I do not need to compensate for that portion. Thanks Fogster.

 

Agree with foggybottombob 100%. I would forget about the axle into the knuckle dimension. Determine the length of the long tube as it is now and subtract your axleshaft length difference to determine the long tube length after the cut. Mark that dimension on the tube as your cut line.

It's really a lot easier just to cut the knuckle off right through the weld bead with the tube in it still. Then make a couple of relief cuts in the tube that's within the knuckle and remove it. Grinding through the bead enough to show the tiny separation crack and then pounding the knuckle off is a pain in the butt.

Your axle will be off center a bit with the 3.xx cut.

The idea that the use of the Waggy axleshaft allows you to stay six lug is a bit off. The wheels bolt to the wheelbearing hub, not the inner axleshaft. A ujoint connects the inner axleshaft to the outers and all of those listed inner shafts use the same ujoint as your existing outer axleshaft. There isn't any correlation between inner axleshafts and the number of wheel studs.

 

When you put the knuckle back on just make sure that the distance from the end of the tube to the lip of the knuckle is the same as it was to begin with. It is critical to get the caster angle the same on both knuckles. I had someone put a knuckle on for me once who basically said close is good enough. He was wrong. If you have the caster angles more than 1/2 degree off from each other the steering will pull to the side with the less positive caster. Try to get the knuckle put back on at exactly the same caster angle as the other one if you don't plan to turn your knuckles.

 

Camber is important to. Even with as tight as the knuckle fits on the tube, camber can be off. I have this problem on my CJ5 currently. The top leans in a bit more than it should and I need to get an offset balljoint or spindle shims to correct that.

 

I asked a question on the forum a couple years back about this very issue and was told that the tight fit of the tube and C would pretty much guarantee proper camber angle. Where is a good reference point on the C for taking camber measurements? Or should the knuckle be in place?

 

Man this is harder than Chinese Arithmetic. Back to drawing board if I use a TJ Rubicon shaft (which is the shortest shaft in the chart other than the 77 Bronco which is 27.XX and would make the WMS too narrow) I am still only at a 3.37 inches cut. Most places I have read is the standard is 4" . CSP if go with the 3.37 cut how much off center will it be and will it effect anything.

 

........Most places I have read is the standard is 4" . CSP if go with the 3.37 cut how much off center will it be and will it effect anything.

Logic would suggest that the drivers side would stick out 0.63 inches more than the pass., no? unless you move the pass. spring perch over half that amount then it would be centered again (if the perch isn't cast into the housing and can be moved)

 

The spring perch is part of the pumpkin.

 

The stock spring centers on the axle are 31.5" and CJs are 27.5" (2" difference per side). When you cut down an axle 4" on the long side you can them move the passenger side 2" over to be directly under the spring and the perch on the drivers side knuckle is then welded on 4" inward of where it was originally. It helps to draw a diagram to see this sometimes.

Cutting only 3.37" off you'll still move the passenger side inward 2" and move the drivers side perch inward by 4". Since you didn't cut 4" off the drivers side it will be sticking out 0.63" more than the passenger side of the axle will. Are you going to really notice less than an inch of difference and will it bother you?

There may be enough area on a stock axleshaft to allow it to be cut and have the existing splines extended if you were to cut 4" off the long side. I'm pretty sure there is enough, but it's been a while since I had a 44 axleshaft in front of me. I'll have to look tonight when I'm at home.

 

CSP got it. The diagram helped. You're right I was looking at it a different way. The .63 inches is no big deal that's like pole vaulting over mouse turds. It is going to be a hunting rig and I'm not into show but go. Moser's site said you had to cut at least 3 1/2 inches to get it cut and re-splined to get past the original splines. It also has to be the same diameter.

 

Another option I just thought of. There may be enough spline already on the TJ shaft such that you could cut that 0.63" off the shaft and still have complete spline engagement with the side gears in the diff. Just a thought that might be worth looking at.

I know that in very D44 I've had apart, the axleshaft extends beyond the side gears when installed.

 

The shaft splines almost touch the spider cross pin in the differential when installed. I bet that's more than a half inch out of the side gear.

 

How hard is it to cut an axle shaft? Chop saw? Do you need anything special? I hope I'm not bothering you guys with all these questions but I'm trying to do this myself and I really want to get it right.