[Maaadman3]

I've been searching for a couple of days now and can't find any definitive answer to this.

This week I replaced all the exterior bulbs with LEDs - I found CanBUS bulbs for the rear which didn't hyperflash. Then I installed switchbacks in the front that needed resistors which I installed and cured the hyperflashing (I cannot find an LM519 in Canada). But now I have a new issue - when I'm driving at night after a few km it gives me a "turn signal on" warning in the EVIC showing the right arrow. All I have to do is tap the signal stalk to the left and it goes out - but it will come back again with that annoying beeping.

Wasn't an issue until I did these lights. All the wiring is good, no breaks, no corrosion, full power going to the sockets. Any ideas what could cause this and what I need to do to fix it? Right now I only have the resistors twisted and taped on to the wires (I don't trust those t taps that come with the resistors) - should I maybe solder them?

 

[makuadoug]

The flasher module doesn't have a PCI (CAN) bus, so the Body Control Module must monitor the turn signal switch status. After a cursory look at the BCM though, I see it monitors the Hazzard switch but not turn signal left-right grounds. Must be missing something. May be worth it to run the EVIC self diags, but this happened after you went to led's.

 

[Maaadman3]

The flasher module doesn't have a PCI (CAN) bus, so the Body Control Module must monitor the turn signal switch status. After a cursory look at the BCM though, I see it monitors the Hazzard switch but not turn signal left-right grounds. Must be missing something. May be worth it to run the EVIC self diags, but this happened after you went to led's.

I'll give this a try.

I just drove today during the day so my running lights weren't on and it didn't happen... Just makes it more confusing. I might try the most simple thing first and turn the bulb around in the socket...

 

[Darnice]

What led bulbs didn't hyper flash. Canbus won't stop hyper flash, only resistor will.
Post a link to the yellow leds your using for the tail turn signals.

 

[Maaadman3]

What led bulbs didn't hyper flash. Canbus won't stop hyper flash, only resistor will.
Post a link to the yellow leds your using for the tail turn signals.

These are the ones I got. I swear I tested them in the front and the back before getting the switchbacks and there was no hyper flash.

Antline 3156 3156A 3156K 3155... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07V34RKLQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

But I may have figured out my issue caused by my impatience and idiocy ...

I was going to install HIDs with a relay harness to bypass the DRL circuit (Canadian WJ) to trigger only when the driving lights were on - so I tapped the trigger wire into what I thought was the centre driving light but instead tapped into the little side marker/signal on the side. Being that the HIDs ended up dimmer than the LEDs I'm currently running I never bothered to take the harness out - so my thinking is with the driving lights on and the LED bulbs - the relay being triggered and potentially pulling enough to make the EVIC think the signal on the right side was on (never got the warning for left).

I removed those wires to the relay harness tonight - going to go for a drive in a bit and test my theory.

 

[wj2hotsprings]

The wiring for the front running/side-marker lights are wired for both markers and signal flashing and uses the Filament of it's side Park Lamp for the ground and as weird as it sounds it does work with the OEM 'incandescent' Light Bulbs because the Filament in the 'Side Marker Lamp' is of Higher 'Resistance Value' than the Park Lamp Filament so the Park Lamp Filament will not illuminate from the Lower Current Draw when the lights are off [during] when the turn signal flasher is on.

I am thinking that because of combination of the difference in Resistance and the fact there is a 'Diode' instead of a 'Resistor' for a bulb in that circuit, (Higher Resistance for LED lights than incandescent lights)... ...and the LED Diode effectively disconnecting the ground from the side marker, so that the Flasher Circuit is not getting the grounding current from the LED and just reversing the polarity of the LED would just cause the side marker to not work one way or the other other way, or not at all(?)..

That being said, I would just either check for correct Resistor Positioning as per a schematic for the kind of circuit/wiring as shown in the below diagram and correct it if it is wired incorrectly or otherwise just use OEM Bulbs for the front Park Lamps and Side Marker Lamps.

 

[Maaadman3]

Aaaaand I'm dumb. No more warning... Goes to show - don't try rushing electrical mods in the cold when it's getting dark. Problem solved...

 

[Maaadman3]

The wiring for the front running/side-marker lights are wired for both markers and signal flashing and uses the Filament of it's side Park Lamp for the ground and as weird as it sounds it does work with the OEM 'incandescent' Light Bulbs because the Filament in the 'Side Marker Lamp' is of Higher 'Resistance Value' than the Park Lamp Filament so the Park Lamp Filament will not illuminate from the Lower Current Draw when the lights are off [during] when the turn signal flasher is on.

I am thinking that because of combination of the difference in Resistance and the fact there is a 'Diode' instead of a 'Resistor' for a bulb in that circuit, (Higher Resistance for LED lights than incandescent lights)... ...and the LED Diode effectively disconnecting the ground from the side marker, so that the Flasher Circuit is not getting the grounding current from the LED and just reversing the polarity of the LED would just cause the side marker to not work one way or the other other way, or not at all(?)..

That being said, I would just either check for correct Resistor Positioning as per a schematic for the kind of circuit/wiring as shown in the below diagram and correct it if it is wired incorrectly or otherwise just use OEM Bulbs for the front Park Lamps and Side Marker Lamps.

View attachment 4222941

This diagram is perfect! Sorry I didn't respond - big time appreciate the help with this.. even if it ended up just being a mistake I made wiring things....

 

[wj2hotsprings]

This diagram is perfect! Sorry I didn't respond - big time appreciate the help with this.. even if it ended up just being a mistake I made wiring things....

You will want to make sure both sides of the front marker/flashers work for both marker and flash functions when the marker and/or headlights for both the on and off modes.
[Slightly edited for better wording]

 

[Maaadman3]

You will want to make sure both sides of the front marker/flashers work for both marker and flash functions when the marker and/or headlights are both on and off modes.

Yea everything is working perfectly now. No hyperflash, no more warnings.

 

[wj2hotsprings]

Re to clarify what I said:

You will want to make sure both sides of the front marker/flashers work for both marker and flash functions when the marker and/or headlights for both the on and off modes.
[Slightly edited for better wording]

When the marker and/or headlights are switched on, the side marker will only flash on when the front flasher flashes off and visa-versa so one would have to check the functioning from observing the lights from the outside of the vehicle.

That being said, Re:

Yea everything is working perfectly now. No hyperflash, no more warnings.

 

[wj2hotsprings]

Maadman3, I just noticed that your in Canada and from what I remember about Canadian Vehicle Regs, there is a difference in the light wiring than the US, but as far as I can tell, it would be just a just a relay that 'switches' the running lights on when the ignition switch is on, because of the low light in the wintertime. Otherwise, I think that if it all works for you now some parts of what I said does wouldn't really apply to a WJ that was originally sold in Canada, but I don't that wouldn't change the ground wiring scheme for that part of the front lighting circuit.

 

[Maaadman3]

Maadman3, I just noticed that your in Canada and from what I remember about Canadian Vehicle Regs, there is a difference in the light wiring than the US, but as far as I can tell, it would be just a just a relay that 'switches' the running lights on when the ignition switch is on, because of the low light in the wintertime. Otherwise, I think that if it all works for you now some parts of what I said does wouldn't really apply to a WJ that was originally sold in Canada, but I don't that wouldn't change the ground wiring scheme for that part of the front lighting circuit.

From my research on the wiring trying to bypass the DRLs without having to change the country code in the BCM - the wiring is all the same - only thing that changes is the low beam relay so the BCM can run the lower voltage for the DRLs when the driving lights are off.

 

[wj2hotsprings]

Maaadman3, did you have to add any resistors in the wiring?... ...Purpose built Circuit Board?
I would be very cautious with using low R Value Resisters particularly if wrapped inside the wiring harness because it would get very hot if it's wired directly across the bulb socket.

 

[Maaadman3]

Maaadman3, did you have to add any resistors in the wiring?... ...Purpose built Circuit Board?
I would be very cautious with using low R Value Resisters particularly if wrapped inside the wiring harness because it would get very hot if it's wired directly across the bulb socket.

Just resistors on the front signals - they're tucked away from any harnesses or plastic. They're working great now since I removed the HID relay harness splice.

The rear signals are canbus (bulbs with built in resistors) and didn't cause hyperflashing so I didn't bother with resistors for those.

 

[Darnice]

Ah, so there is a resistor on the turn signal circuit, that explains the no hyper flash. Thanks. Glad you solved the other issue.

 

[AxeL88]

Thanks