I'd like to first take a look at the lower cooler line. At the radiator, there is a steel elbow that connects between the radiator core and the quick disconnect. Does that elbow screw onto or screw into the radiator core, and is this junction metal or plastic? I have a few feet of braided line that I got from summitracing a while back and I believe the external diameter is about the same as the rubber transmission lines. If it can handle the pressure requirements, I could use it, although I've no way to figure out the size of the connection at the radiator without taking it off and trying various fittings. I guess that goes for both ends.

This is the closest I can find to the actual segment needed, but it still doesn't me what size the fittings are:
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut.../auto/viewer/pictures/46640/1000/1/P/28BA724/transmission_line_upper_inlet.html
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut.../auto/viewer/pictures/46630/1000/1/P/28BA724/transmission_line_lower_inlet.html
$26.25 plus $47.15, if I wanted to buy them.

 

I took the upper connection off to look at it. So, yeah. The hard line is flared and secured with a compression fitting, removed with a 19mm wrench. That fitting at the radiator is said to be a 3/8 NPT? I don't really NEED that connection to be redone, but if I end up having to cut the hard line and rework it, no harm in going all the way up to the radiator. I'm guessing the junction by the oil pan is the same sort of thing. I'm looking at the layout of some replacement radiators, and they show the lower connection with the elbow attached. On the factory radiator, will this fitting come off the radiator in the same way the top one does, or am I stuck with the elbow? It would be extremely handy to not be there.

 

what's your question? seems like your talking to yourself here lol. what motor 5.2?

 

It's the 4.0L. With both leaks, the problem seems to be caused by those quick-connects and I would really like to eliminate both of them. Most of the questions I had, I think I've figured out. The one question I have left is whether or not the metal elbow connection at the lower transmission line can be removed from the radiator or if it's something that I'm going to have to keep and work with.

 

Um, thats where the cooler is.....

 

First off do yourself a favor and make sure there is not a check ball valve on the bottom fitting at the radiator. This will clog up and burn up your tranz. Stick with the elbow/flare at the radiator. To redo the lines correctly it is expensive or you could take them to a shop that makes hydraulic hoses, they can fix them.

 

It took me a bit to figure out what to look for and understand why this would be a problem. I'm familiar with check balls inside the valve body, but wouldn't have thought about one inside a line. I did some further searching, finding it referenced as an anti-drainback valve, and there are some pretty disturbing descriptions of these going bad. I have experienced the feeling of a delay time between shifting into gear and the transmission engaging before, but it's been some time. When I first got my GC, it had a strange issue of locking out OD when it wasn't up to temperature. I fixed that by flushing the transmission and changing it's filter.

I see what you're saying about keeping the elbow at the lower radiator connection. It looks like that's a permanently fixed point that is not easily changed. I took the upper connection off to look at it, and it seems as though it's tapped for a 3/8" NPT and has a brass fitting screwed into it, converting it to the compression fitting. I have a -4 AN to hose fitting that I know is too small. For the heck of it, I'm going to pick up a -6 AN to hose elbow and see if it connects. When I replace the transfer case, and pull the transmission to replace all of the seals, I may decide to replace the cooler lines full run from radiator to transmission. Don't know yet, but if I do, that will be the time to do it.