Replace your steering system with parts from Synergy / PolyPerformance

 

Thx, I have new Synergy ball joints. I'll see if I can find any sleeve etc by those two.


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Hard to say what " that guy" knows. stock tie rod ends are loose new compared to all metal type. stock has a plastic cup that lines the ball, no service just replace. Most after market are the metal on metal ball that need grease every 3k or so. most people are not friendly enough with a grease gun and most places only know that a JK has not one zirk stock. i bet i have 30+ now.

tie rod ends you check by looking for up down travel in the joint, not just turns easy. same with ball joints. But a clunk could be many places on jeep. start replacing parts it can be a endless game if it a guess and another guess....

but just a ball park for a good tie rod is 300$ i would not get one from AEV its stock i bet. I like my Synergy and the jeep is mainly for crawling. beat on well. easy to adjust, heavy though.

 

The thread is about the adjusting sleeve, not ball joints.

See the rusty sleeve to the left? The bar going in to this is where the play is.

 

Firstly if theres wobble between the tie end that threads onto the sleeve or the sleeve where it threads into the tie body, you are threaded too far out - that means there is enough bend in the tie to have had to run out of adjustment. Once bent it goes further easier! Simply putting longer ends on will only mean you are chasing growing toe in.

The problem is - the sleeve is supposed to be turned by hand. The tech was supposed to take the lock nut far enough off to have the whole bolt floppy, insert a heel bar into the split and apply a slight force to help open the clamp threads - the lock will stop it from going too far spread. Then set toe and retighten.

Instead sometime or other when you had your toe set - the tech loosened the lock nut - probably less than half turn - too lazy for the other turn or two, to what he thought was "good enough" (and it may be on 75% of the many brands he works on) then when the sleeve did not turn he got bigger pliers and before there was enough force to turn the sleeve there was enough to squish it oblong. From that point on forever and the rest of the sleeves useful life - it will be hard to turn because its acting like a can loading and unloading twice with each turn. I've seen this on several JKs. And when the joint goes on the other end of the oem tie - have FUN.
So fast fwd to where you at now - the toe was tightened up on the hgighs of the oblong. It found a chance to loosen and settle - once loose you beat up the threads in the sleeve over time. That tie and sleeve and end are shot.

Rather than mess with OEM (lowest cost parts design to service 95% of use) @ 150 but future problem not solved - I replaced with the synergy setup - 300 with problem solved as I intend to pass title of this Veh into my estate at death... so useful parts life means a lot to me.

OEM complete tie assembly - 150ish per rebuild useful life lightest duty parts 5 years
Synergy - 300 to buy 150 to rebuild heavier parts useful life 10 years.
Spending now when I have it rather than later when I may not - priceless

Oops sorry Didn't mean to hijack. 0

 

Ya I've had good success with the Steve White shop, great prices and ships right out.

THIS IS THE CROWN PART

I got in the rig and rode down to the Auto Zone and looked at the big chuck of change of a Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve. It looks exactly like the CROWN 5" one, not like the pic on the auto zone web page which is OMIX-ADA.

This is 5" long and some serious heavy thick metal, more formidable than you get the impression from a pic.

I bought it and going to try it out. If I'm convinced I need a new tie rod end I'll get one of those.

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Im assuming you are going to keep the same tie rod - how does the sleeve below attach to the end of the oem tie? The red circles where the eoem tie IS the clamp sleeve - whole tie must be replaced to replace the sleeve? If the other (swedged) end is sloppy, theres no fixing THAT either!

 

S***

I asked 3 different places and that all said the the longer sleeve fit the JKs.

I'm starting to effin hate this jeep already.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes-Steering/Tie-Rod-End-Adjusting-Sleeve.aspx?t_c=65&t_s=430&t_pt=3923

Notes: Will fit 2 door and 4 door Unlimited models

So the long one will only fit the other Wrangler models and this JK requires the same inner sleeve. So all I can do is get the one with the Raybestos 425-1065 with the HEX head and tighten it down myself.

 

Get a new tie rod since the stock one is garbage and be done with it. Synergy makes tie rods and a high steer kit. Get the combo kit and drive on your merry way.

 

Sounds GREAT . . as soon as I win the lottery I'll get right on that.

Is this MOOG ES800594 the correct replacement for the JK? According to O'Reillys and Amazon it is.

 

You have replaced the tie rod once with a cheap part, and now you want to repair it again with a cheap part. Pretty soon your cheap parts will cost more than 1 quality part. Do it right the first time, or do it right the 6th time. Your money not ours. And you said "Since I have 315s on this I need to rock solid "get it the hell done and done" logging road worthy solution" and then you just want to nickle and dime it to save a couple bucks. Seems like one and done would be a better choice than repeating to through cheap stuff at it.

I think your alignment guy might be jacking your stuff up too. My stock tie rod has been fine for 115k miles with 35" tires. Really easy to mangle the adjuster on these if you go to town on it with a big old wrench.

 

Maybe you should look at it this way. If you are driving around with your tires not aligned properly, which you are because the adjustment has been moving, a high quality replacement tie rod will potentially save you hundreds of dollars in tire replacement cost. The Synergy tie rod will cost you the price of just one tire. An OEM replacement could end up costing the price of one or more sets of tires in the long run.
:tea:

 

I replaced the SLEEVE last time. I'm looking to replace it again with a square nut.

 

Close - you replaced a knurled sleeve last time - and replacing with a hex sleeve this time. Same squish issue presents. AND you are threading that brand new hex sleeve in a tie rod that has the female threads beat up from running loose... those beat up threads will not stay tight AND will distort those nice NEW threads.
Good luck.

You just took the parts monster out to dinner - fed it a $25 steak.
Usually a dinner date like that would have rewards...

 

I'm replacing the tie rod end also. It's my money to spend or not. This thread is done.

 

This is what my alignment guys did...morons.

 

That's the drag link and your alignment wasn't off, that just centers the steering wheel. So, your steering wheel was off and that cause the esp traction control issue. Quick easy fix but yes I would be upset with the shop also.