I have been reading about the yellow wire which I'm sure can likely be the answer, but I have about 169k miles so I suppose replacing the starter wouldn't be that bad of an idea while I'm there.

 

I did mine last weekend and did the entire replacement through the wheel well. You'll have to remove and reinstall the heat shield with the starter in place. This was probably the most challenging part of the process. To get the top most screw for the heat shield installed, I had to have my wife hold it in place while I used my fingers to feel the line up of the shield to the screw and get it started by hand.

You'll want to pick up these fasteners, if you go this route. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/1_4_Nylon_Blind_Rivets_5_32_13_32_Grip_p/a13750.htm - and it's very helpful to have a blind rivet tool. I think you could do it with the forked end of a trim stick and a pair of pliers, but the tool makes it just about as easy as can be to reinstall the mud guard.

Once you get the mud guard off, the connectors for the starter are very easy to disconnect.

This is all on a 5.7 WK - on a 4.7 - you might be able to get away with not removing the drive line.

HTH!

 

I did my Starter on my 4.7L and removed the front drive shaft. Needed to remove the front drive shaft in order to get the starter out from below. Getting the yellow wire off will be a challenge. The female fitting on the yellow wire is pushed on a copper male nib on the starter. Look at your new starter before you try pulling off the yellow wire. You will need a pair of needle nose pliers. The Dealer usually cuts the yellow wire off and replaces the wire and female fitting, probably for that reason.

I have removed the front inner fender when I did my exhaust manifolds. Do not remember if there was enough room to get a new starter out/in. If there is room to extract the starter the angle you will get from the above the starter will allow you to see the yellow wire connector directly. I had to use a mirror when working from under the vehicle. You will need the plastic rivets and a rivet gun for the rivets if you decide to remove the inner fender.

Go with a quality starter as you do not want to do this job twice. Easy job just tough angles of approach. I went with a rebuilt Mopar.

 

I took a shot at it yesterday afternoon and surprisingly, I was able to unbolt it and remove the connections without taking anything apart.....YET. I couldn't find a good angle to actually drop it out of there! I was able to work it forward, but just couldn't get a good angle. It was night by then and my love handles were getting cold. I decided to wrap it up. I think and hope my solution will be dropping the diff, I just need a little more space and I think it should come out. If someone can confirm, I just unbolt the diff mount (couple of bolts?) and it should drop a little? I'm pretty sure I did that when I replaced my oil pain (another nightmare).

 

If someone can confirm, I just unbolt the diff mount (couple of bolts?) and it should drop a little? I'm pretty sure I did that when I replaced my oil pain (another nightmare).

On my 4.7L, I dropped my front drive shaft. I believe it was eight bolts on each end. Make sure you mark the position of the drive shaft to the joint on both sides of the drive shaft so that you can put it back in the exact same position.

 

If you haven't already, try taking off the heat shield and see if there is an angle you can work it out without removing those parts. I went with a rebuilt Mopar starter, like @RCS1300 - It wasn't expensive and I returned the original for a $50 dollar core return.

Otherwise, I'd go through the rathole behind the wheel well. After three rear bumpers, and this starter job. The blind rivet tool has been handy! http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Quick_Set_Riveter_For_Plastic_Rivets_p/too19400.htm

Seems less expensive; I recall paying 50 for it.

 

I did remove the heat shield and it definitely helped to maneuver and rotate it but I had trouble near the diff. So I'm banking on lowering the diff for clearance. I thought I read someone doing it here, omelet maybe?

Where did you get your starter? I was planning on just getting a new starter at AZ or something? No good?

 

I am not sure about aftermarket manufacturers. Me personally, I always like genuine mopar parts rather than 3rd party stuff (when I can). I bought mine at https://moparonlineparts.com/ - I believe they're the large dealership out of Westbury NY.

But if you're in a pinch, I'm sure aftermarket is fine.

 

Yeah, unfortunately I have to get this part today. The aftermarket starters aren't cheap either! I suppose I can stop at a dealer to see if they have any, but the one by my area sucks. We'll see.

 

I went through wheel well/ reached up from underneath, didn't have to remove or loosen anything... wasn't that fun though... on a 5.7...

 

Hope this helps

1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Note: If equipped with 4WD, remove front drive shaft.
4. Note: If equipped with 4WD and certain transmissions, a support bracket is used between front axle and side of transmission. Remove 2 support bracket bolts at transmission. Pry support bracket slightly to gain access to lower starter mounting bolt.
5. Remove two bolts (3) if equipped with an automatic transmission.
6. Move starter motor (4) towards front of vehicle far enough for nose of starter pinion housing to clear housing. Always support starter motor during this process, do not let starter motor hang from wire harness.
7. Tilt nose downwards and lower starter motor far enough to access and remove nut (2) that secures battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet (1) to solenoid battery terminal stud. Do not let starter motor hang from wire harness.
8. Remove battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet (5) from solenoid battery terminal stud.
9. Disconnect battery positive cable wire harness connector from solenoid terminal connector receptacle.
10. Remove starter motor

 

Halfway there. Dropped the diff, gave me juuust enough room to wiggle it out.

 

Quick update. I could not squeeze the new starter back in the same way. I knew my arms were getting tired when I almost fumbled the starter and smashed my face with it. I decided to just drop the drive shaft. Those 4 bolts on the front were some of the stiffest bolts I've ever turned.

 

Another thing I'd like to add is to be sure to clean up and check the yellow wire ground. I checked the yellow connector going IN to the starter but didn't take a better look at the ground. The new starter did work on the first crank, it actually started up quicker than ever, but after the 2-3rd time turning it on, nothing! So I'll be cleaning up that wire today/tomorrow. I must say, I definitely gained some serious "XP" doing this job!

 

These Jeeps are definitely a Pain In the *** to R&R the starter. That's for sure. I don't know if you noticed. But on the other side of the bellhousing you can see where there is the casting of where the starter should be/used to be. I took that as Jeep saying something like. "Look where there starter should be. To bad, we put it on the drivers side. Na, na, na, na, naaaaa." :laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:

But I'm not sure. Maybe there is only one master bellhousing mold that they use to make all the Jeep bellhousings. But I do know that both of my XJ's and my TJ were on the passenger side. When I replaced them, it was about a 30 minute job on those Jeeps.