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doctorslicer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have an 2000 XJ that is running rich and getting a P0172 error code.
Things that I have checked/done:
- Reset Computer.
-- Code went away and came back
- Replaced Upstream O2, reset computer.
-- Error Code came back
- Checked MAP with OBDII
-- normal reading
- Tested Fuel Injector resistance
-- All read 13.2. High but still in range?
- Fuel Pressure Test
-- Key Turned on, Went Up but didn't stay
-- Ran engine and stayed around 50
-- turned off and quickly went to zero

Previous owner said that her recently replaced injectors and Fuel pump.

My guess is that the injectors he put in weren't right. He said that he had problems with injector 1.

Any guidance would be appreciated.
 
What brand of O2 sensor was installed ? Did you test the O2 sensor wire continuity, and inspect the wire plug for bent/pushed back pins and for corrosion ?

Did you inspect the exhaust manifold and the manifold connection donut for leaks ?

P0172 JEEP - 1/1 Lean - Fuel System Rich

Possible causes

Faulty front heated oxygen sensor
Ignition misfiring
Faulty fuel injectors
Exhaust gas leaks
Incorrect fuel pressure
Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
- Installed Bosch 13399 O2 Sensor
- Did not notice any corrosion on O2 sensor plug wire pins
- Didn't test for continuity yet or exhaust manifold.

Will look into testing continuity and leaks soon.

If there was a leak in the exhaust manifold or a continuity problem with the O2 sensor wire, would that cause the condition for the Fuel pressure to drop rapidly when shutting off the engine?
 
It has been proven numerous times that the Jeep 4.0L and Bosch O2 sensors do not play well together. It is very highly likely that the CEL trouble code will clear up by itself after you install an NTK or genuine Jeep O2 sensor.

Exhaust leaks and O2 sensors have no effect on the fuel pressure drop off. The 1997-2001 fuel pump check valve is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel line while the engine is off. The check valve is located on the fuel pump and located inside the gas tank. A failed check valve allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. Check valve failure is very common. This results in one or more of the following symptoms:
 
SYMPTOMS
 
• Longer than normal cranking times
• Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
• Rough idle for a few moments of idling
• Rough running for first ½ block of driving
• Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -
 
1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45-50 PSI.
 
 
POSSIBLE CAUSES
 
• Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank.
• Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.
 
Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail, and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.
 
1. Connect the gauge at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gage should read 49 psi plus or minus 5 psi.
 
2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line just ahead of the fuel tank. Watch the pressure gage and see how long it takes to loose pressure.
 
If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably one or more leaky injectors.
 
There are a few solutions to the problem –
 
1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.
 
2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.
 
3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.
 
You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.
 
 
If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style pump assembly such as Bosch or Carter. Some cheap aftermarket fuel pump assemblies, like Airtex, and Precision don’t hold up and will fail completely within 12-18 months.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Since I can't find a place to clamp, my next choice is to remove the rail with the injectors still installed. Then turn on the ignition and see if the injectors leak. If so, then I found my problem.

Also, since I don't have any problems starting the XJ, and I smell a lot of gas after starting, my guess is it is the injectors.

Does this make sense?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I replaced my O2 Sensors with NGK units. Haven't gotten the code again but still running a little rough. Upon checking the installed Fuel injectors from the previous owner they appear to be a brand called Mostplus. Since I've never hear of this brand and they were reading 13.2 Ohms instead of 12 I am looking to change them out also.

Anybody have luck with Mostplus?
 
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