[crumb]

I am getting the P0700 and P0740 codes and feel like I just need to replace this thing. I want to get started tomorrow but have been reading that I need to do this quick learn thing once the new TC is in there.
Can anybody tell me what this is or if it is necessary?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The FSM told me a quick learn was required after my recent 42RLE repair too. The only thing I did was to reset the computer by disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and holding it against the positive cable for 20-30 seconds. That discharges/resets the learned parameters inside the computer. My transmission was perfect after I was done without having done the quick learn process.

 

[wranglertec]

The quick learn is done with a higher end scan tool or drb or Witech. What it does is applies all the clutches in a sequence for the computer to know how much time it takes fill the clutch circuit. Its an electronic wear indicator for the transmission. Also some Chrysler/Jeep transmissions have a torque converter break in procedure using again a high end scan tool drb or Witech. Just some things I have to do when doing transmission work at the dealership. Do you have to do theses procedures Mother Mopar says yes. But my experience yes and no . If you have crapping shifts after repairs then I do a quick learn. If my shifts are fine then nope.


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[crumb]

Thanks guys. Wish me luck. I am not looking forward to this.

 

[crumb]

What's the trick to removing those top 2 torx head bolts where the transmission connects to the engine? They are really on there. I really don't want to damage the torx head on there.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

What's the trick to removing those top 2 torx head bolts where the transmission connects to the engine? They are really on there. I really don't want to damage the torx head on there.

Those are tricky, but as long as you are using the correct size torque socket well seated - meaning straight and all the way on - you won't damage the bolt. It does take a crazy combination of extensions and u-joints on the ratchet to get to it. It also helps a lot if you lower the tranny a bit after you remove the cross member.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

What's the trick to removing those top 2 torx head bolts where the transmission connects to the engine? They are really on there. I really don't want to damage the torx head on there.

No trick, just make sure you're using the correct E-12 e-torx socket. If you're using a string of 3/8" extensions to reach the e-torx bolt with a 3/8" ratchet wrench, try switching the ratchet wrench to a 1/2" with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to give you more leverage against the bolt.

 

[crumb]

It sounds like I just need to crank harder on those suckers. I also have it held up by the engine so I am going to put the weight under the transmission to see if that tiny bit less stress may change anything.
Some guy on YouTube said he took a punch to the center of the etorx bolt and hammered on it and that made it easy to remove. Not much room to try that but I am almost ready to try anything.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Support the transmission with something like a transmission jack while you're unbolt it or all of the bolts will be hard to remove.

 

[UTWeezul]

I just had my transmission out. With it supported by a jack once I got the bolts loose I could unscrew them by hand.

 

[crumb]

Success. I just used a long breaker bar. I also sprayed them with penetrating fluid the night before for good measure.

 

[crumb]

I am trying to find the torque specs for those 2 e-torx top bolts and the specs for the 2 side bolts for mounting the bellhousing back to the engine block. Does anybody know what those would be?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I am trying to find the torque specs for those 2 e-torx top bolts and the specs for the 2 side bolts for mounting the bellhousing back to the engine block. Does anybody know what those would be?

28 ft-lbs. That's actually the spec for the manual transmission but that should be fine for the automatic mounting bolts too, they're bolting to the same thing... the engine. I couldn't find the ft-lbs. for the automatic either when I recently repaired my 42RLE.

 

[crumb]

I got everything all back together today and it seems to be running well. I had a whirring noise coming from the transmission when I ran it initially after getting it back together but only in park or neutral. It almost sounded like a remote control car servo. I went for a drive and came back and the whirring noise was going on and off. I drove it later a little longer and now the noise seems to be gone. I will keep an eye on it. Hopefully it is gone.
Is that sound something attributed to the new torque converter breaking in?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Perhaps the ATF just needed to completely circulate. Check your ATF level again now, make sure the engine is running while you check the level. My 42RLE took a couple more quarts than I expected after having it apart earlier this year, more drained out than I expected.