The factory Infinity system in our Jeeps is kinda lacking, to put it lightly. Most manufacturer "Premium" audio systems use junk speakers with lots of EQ to make them sound good and all the components are designed to work together to prop up these weak speakers.
The Infinity amp has built-in crossovers on the speaker outputs so that speakers only receive certain frequencies which means that if you replace the head unit and speakers you are seriously limiting yourself by retaining the amp.
To the point: Replace the amp and you will be amazed at the difference.
If you're on a budget and you're OK with the factory head unit, replace the amp first. Just be aware that the factory speakers suck and you won't get the full benefit until you replace them too. TBH the factory head units aren't any good either and a modern Carplay/Android Auto unit will be much better.
I've replaced everything in my system but in this write-up I'll focus on the amp.
Here's the list of things I used. This list is all linked to Amazon for convenience but you can probably find better prices elsewhere. For example, the amp is $125 on Amazon but I got it new on eBay for <$80.
Amplifier: Power Acoustik Razor 1200D 1200 watt amplifier. I'm VERY pleased with this unit. Very compact and puts out serious power. I wouldn't be surprised if this would pop factory speakers in short order if you cranked it up.
Amplifier Bypass Harness: The Metra 70-6507 bypass harness isn't strictly required but I'm particular about things looking factory and this plugs into the factory harness.
Amplifier Installation Kit: This also is not strictly necessary but any kit will have everything you need in one place without having to piece it together. Use 8 gauge or better power wire. Mount the fuse close to the battery
Line In Audio Cables: Another item that's not strictly required, but if you don't use these you'll have to cut up the factory harness to get the high level inputs. Use 12ft cables minimum. I used 10 ft and while they did fit it was only barely. Note that if you use line in audio inputs, you will have to hook into the Remote signal to power on the amp. This is easily tapped from the factory harness.
Now for the install:
My main requirement was an amp that fit in the factory location and I settled on the Power Acoustik Razor 1200D 1200 watt amp.
Razor 1200D compared to the factory Infinity amp. This pic also shows the Metra 70-6507 bypass harness.
The first order of business is to get power to your new amp as the factory power wire is woefully inadequate. Run your 8 gauge wire from the battery along the passenger side of the vehicle. On the firewall behind the coolant reservoir there is a metal plate attached with several bolts. Remove the bolts and tilt the plate forward and you'll see a rubber grommet that you can run your power cable through. The cable will come out right behind the glovebox and then you can run it along the door sills under the trim.
You'll need to fabricate a mount for the new amp. I used some MDF that I already had. Cut it to size and drilled 2 holes to mount to the factory mounting plate. I had to countersink the holes to let enough thread protrude for the bolts to grab.
Painted and attached to the factory plate
Ready for the new amp
The Metra bypass harness is about 18 feet long but I only used about a foot. Here it is connected to the Razor amp. Note that the factory Infinity amp has 4 inputs and 6 outputs whereas the Razor only has 4 outputs. I tied the front door and dash speaker outputs together for the front channels.
Here it is hooked up and almost ready to go.
When I was researching the Metra bypass harness, it was impossible to find a good picture of it and how it connected so I decided to take a gamble and see if it was what I needed. Turns out it was indeed. Here is how it connects to the factory speaker outputs.
Continued in the next post...
The Infinity amp has built-in crossovers on the speaker outputs so that speakers only receive certain frequencies which means that if you replace the head unit and speakers you are seriously limiting yourself by retaining the amp.
To the point: Replace the amp and you will be amazed at the difference.
If you're on a budget and you're OK with the factory head unit, replace the amp first. Just be aware that the factory speakers suck and you won't get the full benefit until you replace them too. TBH the factory head units aren't any good either and a modern Carplay/Android Auto unit will be much better.
I've replaced everything in my system but in this write-up I'll focus on the amp.
Here's the list of things I used. This list is all linked to Amazon for convenience but you can probably find better prices elsewhere. For example, the amp is $125 on Amazon but I got it new on eBay for <$80.
Amplifier: Power Acoustik Razor 1200D 1200 watt amplifier. I'm VERY pleased with this unit. Very compact and puts out serious power. I wouldn't be surprised if this would pop factory speakers in short order if you cranked it up.
Amplifier Bypass Harness: The Metra 70-6507 bypass harness isn't strictly required but I'm particular about things looking factory and this plugs into the factory harness.
Amplifier Installation Kit: This also is not strictly necessary but any kit will have everything you need in one place without having to piece it together. Use 8 gauge or better power wire. Mount the fuse close to the battery
Line In Audio Cables: Another item that's not strictly required, but if you don't use these you'll have to cut up the factory harness to get the high level inputs. Use 12ft cables minimum. I used 10 ft and while they did fit it was only barely. Note that if you use line in audio inputs, you will have to hook into the Remote signal to power on the amp. This is easily tapped from the factory harness.
Now for the install:
My main requirement was an amp that fit in the factory location and I settled on the Power Acoustik Razor 1200D 1200 watt amp.
Razor 1200D compared to the factory Infinity amp. This pic also shows the Metra 70-6507 bypass harness.
The first order of business is to get power to your new amp as the factory power wire is woefully inadequate. Run your 8 gauge wire from the battery along the passenger side of the vehicle. On the firewall behind the coolant reservoir there is a metal plate attached with several bolts. Remove the bolts and tilt the plate forward and you'll see a rubber grommet that you can run your power cable through. The cable will come out right behind the glovebox and then you can run it along the door sills under the trim.
You'll need to fabricate a mount for the new amp. I used some MDF that I already had. Cut it to size and drilled 2 holes to mount to the factory mounting plate. I had to countersink the holes to let enough thread protrude for the bolts to grab.
Painted and attached to the factory plate
Ready for the new amp
The Metra bypass harness is about 18 feet long but I only used about a foot. Here it is connected to the Razor amp. Note that the factory Infinity amp has 4 inputs and 6 outputs whereas the Razor only has 4 outputs. I tied the front door and dash speaker outputs together for the front channels.
Here it is hooked up and almost ready to go.
When I was researching the Metra bypass harness, it was impossible to find a good picture of it and how it connected so I decided to take a gamble and see if it was what I needed. Turns out it was indeed. Here is how it connects to the factory speaker outputs.
Continued in the next post...