Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Replacing The Infinity Amp With An Aftermarket Amp

2 reading
15K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  FinnsWJ  
#1 ·
The factory Infinity system in our Jeeps is kinda lacking, to put it lightly. Most manufacturer "Premium" audio systems use junk speakers with lots of EQ to make them sound good and all the components are designed to work together to prop up these weak speakers.

The Infinity amp has built-in crossovers on the speaker outputs so that speakers only receive certain frequencies which means that if you replace the head unit and speakers you are seriously limiting yourself by retaining the amp.

To the point: Replace the amp and you will be amazed at the difference.

If you're on a budget and you're OK with the factory head unit, replace the amp first. Just be aware that the factory speakers suck and you won't get the full benefit until you replace them too. TBH the factory head units aren't any good either and a modern Carplay/Android Auto unit will be much better.

I've replaced everything in my system but in this write-up I'll focus on the amp.

Here's the list of things I used. This list is all linked to Amazon for convenience but you can probably find better prices elsewhere. For example, the amp is $125 on Amazon but I got it new on eBay for <$80.

Amplifier: Power Acoustik Razor 1200D 1200 watt amplifier. I'm VERY pleased with this unit. Very compact and puts out serious power. I wouldn't be surprised if this would pop factory speakers in short order if you cranked it up.

Amplifier Bypass Harness: The Metra 70-6507 bypass harness isn't strictly required but I'm particular about things looking factory and this plugs into the factory harness.

Amplifier Installation Kit: This also is not strictly necessary but any kit will have everything you need in one place without having to piece it together. Use 8 gauge or better power wire. Mount the fuse close to the battery

Line In Audio Cables: Another item that's not strictly required, but if you don't use these you'll have to cut up the factory harness to get the high level inputs. Use 12ft cables minimum. I used 10 ft and while they did fit it was only barely. Note that if you use line in audio inputs, you will have to hook into the Remote signal to power on the amp. This is easily tapped from the factory harness.

Now for the install:

My main requirement was an amp that fit in the factory location and I settled on the Power Acoustik Razor 1200D 1200 watt amp.

Razor 1200D compared to the factory Infinity amp. This pic also shows the Metra 70-6507 bypass harness.

Image


The first order of business is to get power to your new amp as the factory power wire is woefully inadequate. Run your 8 gauge wire from the battery along the passenger side of the vehicle. On the firewall behind the coolant reservoir there is a metal plate attached with several bolts. Remove the bolts and tilt the plate forward and you'll see a rubber grommet that you can run your power cable through. The cable will come out right behind the glovebox and then you can run it along the door sills under the trim.

Image


You'll need to fabricate a mount for the new amp. I used some MDF that I already had. Cut it to size and drilled 2 holes to mount to the factory mounting plate. I had to countersink the holes to let enough thread protrude for the bolts to grab.

Image


Painted and attached to the factory plate

Image


Ready for the new amp

Image


The Metra bypass harness is about 18 feet long but I only used about a foot. Here it is connected to the Razor amp. Note that the factory Infinity amp has 4 inputs and 6 outputs whereas the Razor only has 4 outputs. I tied the front door and dash speaker outputs together for the front channels.

Image


Here it is hooked up and almost ready to go.

Image


When I was researching the Metra bypass harness, it was impossible to find a good picture of it and how it connected so I decided to take a gamble and see if it was what I needed. Turns out it was indeed. Here is how it connects to the factory speaker outputs.

Image


Continued in the next post...
 

Attachments

#2 · (Edited)
The connector for the factory speaker inputs will not be used if you are going to use line in connectors. You will need to tap into the Remote line on this connector and attach it to the Remote connector on the amp (turns the amp on when your radio powers on). If you are going to use high level connectors, you will need to tap into this connector for the inputs for the amp. The Remote will not be needed if using high level inputs. I decided I'd rather do only a single tap into this connector (the Remote line) instead of 8 taps (4 speakers with a + and - for each). It's generally agreed that line level sounds better too.

Image


And the tap into the Remote line on the same connector.

Image


All hooked up and ready to rock.

Image


Bonus: Since you're already running a power cable for your amp, why not run it just a little further and add a subwoofer? If you want a sub that sounds great but doesn't gobble up cargo space, the Rockville RW10CA works great and perfectly fits where the CD changer was.

Image


Doesn't stick out any further than the CD changer did and sounds great.

Image


This made a HUGE difference in my audio.

I had Pioneer 4 way speakers in my door that were pretty dead with the factory amp since they were only getting woofer frequencies.

Now they sound terrific.

On my head unit, my usual listening volume was around a 10 out of 30.

Now a setting of 12 is almost painful to sit in the vehicle.

Image


If you have any questions I'll try to answer them.
 
#8 · (Edited)
IDK about the bracket, but the coolant reservoir is only held in by 2 bolts. I ran power to my amps, light bar, light pods, through the fire wall by the brake booster, tied it up under the front lip of the cowl, then snaked it down under the TCM to the batt. There is another cable gland behind the ECU by the coolant reservoir, but I found the driver's side cable gland much easier to access despite it using more wire. Once inside the cab, I tucked the amp wire to the back seats under the center console.

Image
 
  • Like
Reactions: WJ60
#9 ·
Could you tell me what if anything you had to remove or move to get through the firewall. I have 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ. I have a Vapor Canister in front of the wire location that goes through the fire wall. But, i do not understand how to get through the firewall grommet. It seems really hard to get through the grommet. Any details about this would be helpful
 
#12 ·
Could you tell me what if anything you had to remove or move to get through the firewall.
Nothing. You can clearly see the cable gland, and the harness going through just to the right amd under the brake booster. I have an arrow pointing right to it in my above pic. Beyond that, follow Gman's advice above. Couldn't be any easier.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cDee63
#10 ·
best bang for the buck replacement amp is the Hyundai Azera uses same four speaker level input pairs as the WJ amp and has 11 output channels

2 dedicated tweets
2 dedicated subs
4 door speakers
2 sail speakers
1 center speaker

excellent sound with quality speakers
runs under $40 at you pull it yards

the to keep from hacking oem harness
the stock WJ amp has male 18 and 12 pin connectors

the stock 07 and up sebring and avenger with amp package has same series connectors with a 14 way and a 20 way and uses a short 1 foot extension with male 14 and 20 way on one end and female 14 and 20 way on other end

the pins from the stock wj harness are easily removed and inserted into the avenger male plugs harvested from the avenger amp extension
the the females from that same amp extension can be plugged in with short wires to adapt to your new amp harness plugs (thus only de-pinning and no cutting of stock WJ amp harness)

read about Azera amp here from guys that dumped their WJ infinity amp upgrades

 
#14 ·
best bang for the buck replacement amp is the Hyundai Azera uses same four speaker level input pairs as the WJ amp and has 11 output channels
I am very interested in how the installation goes and the results.
 
#11 ·
A squirt of WD40 and a fish wire work well. You might have to push a small Phillips screwdriver in there to create a gap, shove your fish wire through the gap. A length of household Romex/sheathed non-metallic cable works well. The grommet will stretch quite a bit. You can fit at least a 1/0 awg cable through there in addition to the factory harness.
 
#13 ·
^^Same method I used for lighting wires. Worked like a charm. Being the hack I am I merely purchased a $70 buck Wally World self powered sub which is in the spare tire well along with tow straps, gloves, tie downs and the such. Used LOC adapters off the OEM amp under the back seat to power it. Updated the factory speakers with some budget Rockford Fosgate offerings and it sounds pretty darn good actually. Now I need to update the head unit as it has zero display at all, playing the "guess where you are in the frequency range" game gets real old real quick.