The tank install is easy. Make sure you disconnect the grounding wire on the forward driver side of the tank.

One thing to look for is fuel leaks. My first tank leaked on the middle seam. I had to remove it and send it back. The tank they sent me leaks around the 2 vents. If I had my way, I wouldn't have done the upgrade. I'm not trying to discourage you, just letting you know what to look for once your done.

 

Updated pics.. Painting some parts to clean them up and putting the new tank on tomorrow.

 

Removing/Upgrading Fuel Tank

Well, I just finished a "re-do" on my original 20 gallon tank on my /83 CJ7.

The gas tank refurbish was AFTER I re-installed all the vacuum lines and charcoal canister that had been removed by previous owners.

I also had the gasoline smell in the garage which is now GONE.

I attribute the gasoline smell elimination to one, or more, or the following actions I took:

1.) Replaced both rollover valves AND rubber grommets in top of tank, hooked into Y-fitting and..........

2.) Replaced charcoal canister, and ran 3/16 inch vapor/fuel line back from the Y-fitting to the canister.....

3.) Replaced fuel sending unit, along with new rubber O-ring gasket, 3 feet of 1/4 inch fuel line at return port, AND capped the 1/4 inch fuel return line for now. (adding OE return fuel line/filter/metal return fuel line another project for the future.)

4.) Replaced all rubber fuel/vapor hoses in/around tank with new ones.

5.) Replaced gas tank fill and vaporvent hoses at re-fill opening.

I got tire of my wife saying "you stink from Jeep".........now I just smell of PB Blaster........

 

Iv been wanting to do this I'll be watching. looks good so far! :thumbsup:

 

Almost finished, but wasn't able to get it done today because the new tank has a smaller connection for the filler vent hose that I didn't have. I didn't feel like hitting the auto stores when I would rather be watching the NFL playoffs so will have to wait until next weekend:

1) Painted the parts black to match back bumpers.
2) Put on rubber padding on where the tank sits and where the strap goes over the tank ($10 at auto store).
3) Put on the tank (attached the skid plate and tank to the back bumper, only barely tightening the screws and leaving the front screws unattached so I had room to adjust hoses).
4) Left it like this until next weekend when I will have time to get a hose for the filler vent hose.

 

I used cut folded bicycle inter tubes superglued to the tank to serve the same purpose as your rubber padding. Is that foam rubber weatherstripping you're using, or is that a harder rubber?

 

Yes, that was weatherstripping that I used, gives it a little cushion (not sure how useful that step is, probably fine without it, but seemed like a good idea).

Finally had a chance to go get some hoses to extand the filler vent to the actual existing filler vent hose (the new MTS tank had a much shorter piece that sticks out, than the existing stock tank, which you can see from the pictures above).

Done with the tank replacement, however, much to my dismay, my fuel guage still doesn't work (guessing it is the gauge itself, and not a problem with the new tank I got), and my Jeep still smells like fuel when I leave in the garage after filling it up, maybe not as bad as it was but still noticeable (guessing this is on to charcoal canister, which is my next project, along with my fuel gauge).

Notes for anyone planning on doing this job (as a non mechanic, this was not as easy as I thought it would be, but if I can do it, you guys can do it):
1) If you have the older CJ like mine, make sure you get extra hose for filler vent to bridge from the existing hose to the the tank.
2) Connect the hoses you can onto the tank before putting it on the Jeep. Much easier doing the work before you hang the tank on the Jeep.
3) Be ready to spend some time laying on your back and looking up to get everything connected.. It was a pain getting the fuel and fuel return hoses on and tightened (I used the ring lock that requires you to turn a screw to secure the hose, not much fun when you have limited space).
4) It took about 15 times of cranking the Jeep for the fuel to finally get to the engine.. I was starting to think I switched the lines by accident, but all was good.

Good luck if you plan on doing this upgrade, I am happy to have the extra fuel capacity and range. If I fix my fuel smell or the gas gauge, I'll post on this thread.

 

Done with the tank replacement, however, much to my dismay, my fuel guage still doesn't work (guessing it is the gauge itself, and not a problem with the new tank I got)

Don't jump to that conclusion yet, mine did exactly the same thing and I went through 3 sets of gages and then built a custom dash and used after market gages when I thought it could not possibly be my new tank. The sender was bad out of the gate. Once I replaced my brand new sender with another one, fuel started reading correctly. By all means check the gage, just don't toss it before you check voltages and resistances across it, thinking it could not be the new tank.

Good luck.

 

Just wanted to add that the smell of fuel is coming from under the hood somewhere. I cannot pinpoint from where exactly, but it is not from the tank area or any of the hoses back there. No smell of gas from the rear . Wouldn't be too bad, and probably not noticeable if it wasn't sitting in my garage (and this was like this before I did the tank install).

 

Just wanted to add that the smell of fuel is coming from under the hood somewhere. I cannot pinpoint from where exactly, but it is not from the tank area or any of the hoses back there. No smell of gas from the rear . Wouldn't be too bad, and probably not noticeable if it wasn't sitting in my garage (and this was like this before I did the tank install).

if it were me i would just replace all of them with new rubber fuel hoses

 

Did you remember to hook up the small ground wire on the drive side of the gas tank?

 

Yes, ground wire was attached. Interesting enough, the old tank I pulled off didn't have one attached.. Only the sender wire was attached when I pulled off the old tank.

 

Check the ground on your fuel gauge.

 

I found a very good article to help me out.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.strenk/Gauge%20web%20page/basic_troubleshooting_for_cj_gau.htm

I picked up my new favorite tool for $3.50 at walmart (12-volt test light showed me the way).

I started on the fuel gauge, everything checked out per the article (make sure you turn the key to on). I then moved back to the fuel tank to check the sender wire. The test light did not light up when I connected the clip to my tank ground wire screw. I then connected the clip to a different screw close by and the light turned on. So, I moved my ground wire to a screw that was actually grounded and looked up to see my gas gauge moving to full..

I proceeded to get my sweatshirt and drive around 50 miles with my top off just to verify the gauge dropped done slightly below the F line. I enjoyed driving around with a heavy foot and seeing the gauge eventually drop a little bit.

Next step is to move to the gas smell coming from under the hood. Thanks for the help on the gas gauge.

 

Do you have a copy of the contents of that link article? It seems to be a broken link. I am having the same issue with Fuel Sending wire and have tested a NEW FS and my test light worked. The gauge didn't but my frame ground is good. Want to read that article to double check what many have been kindly suggesting.