I recently replaced mine in 2011. If you have done any of your own work before it's pretty easy and straightforward.

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I recently replaced mine due to one having leaked. Searching here I found several older posts addressing this that helped. I replaced them with Bilstein but would recommend the OEM if you are happy with the ride. The Bilstein are softer in jounce and don't rebound as quickly so going over roadways with whop-de-doos can feel like a carnival ride. The OEM ride on mine was nice and taught much like cars I had with progressive rate springs. Some might say hard but I prefer it that way.
As far as the work, getting the top mount off the old shock can be a little tricky. A high speed impact gun saved the day for me. If using aftermarket shocks I would recommend getting the top mounting kit rather than try to fidget the old ones back on.

 

Yes, mine had top mount already... definitely makes much easier.

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The MOPAR rears cost around $400 each which means the dealer is charging about $1,000 for installation. This seems excessive because they only take an hour or two to fit if you do it yourself with basic tools. A dealer should do this in less than an hour. They could be adding a full realignment to the bill, for a straight swap of rear shocks, this should not be required.

The Bilstien 4600 offers similar performance to the stock shock, the 5100 are more for offroad use and offer a bit of lift. Both series are bare shocks so do take a bit more effort to install but they are only about $100 per side so the cost-saving should be more beneficial than the extra labor cost to swap the top mount.

If you plan to do this yourself, you will almost certainly need an impact wrench

 

The MOPAR rears cost around $400 each

Mopar's been using dynamic pricing for a while, and current list is $603. Service departments can of course discount from that if they like (LOL), and over-the-counter prices can be lower, but I wouldn't be surprised to see a $1206 line item for parts. Add tax and you're at ~$1325.

Still don't know where the rest of it's coming from, though. FCA book time's 0.9 hours to do both, and even Chilton rust belt book time is only 1.6.

 

Yeah the OEM shocks currently list for $600. Online discount parts (RockAuto for example) are selling them for $375- $410.

So the dealer is quoting probably $1200 in parts plus tax and shop fees plus a couple hours labor to stretch it to 1800?. Maybe he's adding mounts, or other parts, but I thought the new PN includes new mounts.

The Bilsteins (24-225427) are around $100 but seem to be out of stock everywhere.

 

In the current times with all these supply shortages, it is a case of buying what you can. You may also want to look at Monroe, their products may not be sexy but they get the job done and they usually last a long time.

Have you checked out your local O'Rielys and Autozone? O'Reillys got me a full set of Bilstein 5100s in a couple of days for a buddy that needed them for a road trip, the price was in the $600 range but for 4 shocks it's not a bad deal.

The 5100 fronts give the option of up to about a 2" lift, you need to decide if this is what you want because you essentially have to make your choice when you install them and it's not possible to change it without taking everything apart again. The rears only provide about 1" lift so it's not such a big decision.

Personally, I like the ride you get with 5100 on a WK2, yes it is a bit softer but also very progressive. If you are looking for a more sporty ride, they are probably not for you and the 4600 series could be a better choice.

 

i'm also looking to replace my stock rear shocks, pn 68069680AH. these are apparently stock load leveling shocks.

are there any opinions on if the load leveling feature of these shocks is worth the cost ($379/ea on rockauto)?

 

If you have air suspension, the load leveling feature is not in the shock.

Otherwise there are a couple threads around, perhaps indexed in the maintenance/repair sticky, that discuss replacing the coil spring Nivomat load leveling shocks with std shocks. The rear spring rates are different, so the rear will sag and may bottom out easily. You can replace the springs or, as a bandaid, add spacers. You can try searching the forum for NIVOMAT If no luck or no one jumps in here, I'll try to find one when I get back.

 

Thanks ColdCase, i'll go search out those threads. i don't have air suspension. i did find the Nivomat replacements on rock auto and they are cheaper than 68069680AH's.

 

So if my jeep doesn't have the air ride feature then I need a load balancing level shock... Is that correct? Do after-market shocks have a load balancing feature?

 

If your Jeep has the factory tow package, you will have load leveling shocks or you will have air suspension with std shocks.

If your Jeep does not have the tow package, it will have conventional shocks.

I've read that compatible leveling shocks are now being offered by monroe and bilstein, dunno anything else about them. There may be others. Forum sponsor Kolak should be able to tell you what is currently available.

 

Found a local shop that didn't cost me an arm and leg!
Went with Bilsteins shocks ....

Thanks for all the help

 

Would be helpful if you would at least give us an idea of what were the costs?

 

The shocks were $300 a piece and the labor was 200 dollars.

 

Hi knotcher!

What did you end up replacing your original Nivoimats with?

 

UPDATE - I just realized that original poster probably did not have Quadra-lift so information below may not be pertinent. -

I recently replaced the rear shocks on my 2015 WK2 w/ Quadra-lift. The shocks were not leaking, but the rear end had suddenly become very unsettled when driving over broken pavement or potholes at any speed.

I installed the Arnott SK-3394 assemblies which are built with a "custom-valved" Eibach shock. I have had very good luck with Arnott products. They were not cheap - about $260 each from Rock Auto - but they made a world of difference on my vehicle. The original shocks were not leaking fluid, but they were obviously dead when I pulled them out.

Installation is very straight forward. I put the Quadra lift into Park-mode to drop some pressure from the airsprings and then set system into Tire Change Mode. Arnott has good installation instructions online. You do not need to completely remove the fender liner, but you do need to pull two of the grommets and one bolt to be able to fold it out of the way. The other "trick" that I found helpful when installing the new shocks was to compress them by hand and then use some mechanics wire to hold them in the compressed position...it makes it much easier to slide the new shocks into position. Once they are in place, you cut and remove the wire.